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@DuffyMahoneyHow are your injectors wired into the ECU? If i'm not mistaken there are only 4 injector drivers on the haltech board. Are you running 2 batches of 3 injectors? I seem to remember from a few pages back you got a CAS dizzy piece so you'd have a cam signal heading to the ECU for a more sequential system.

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21 hours ago, Ben280 said:

@DuffyMahoneyHow are your injectors wired into the ECU? If i'm not mistaken there are only 4 injector drivers on the haltech board. Are you running 2 batches of 3 injectors? I seem to remember from a few pages back you got a CAS dizzy piece so you'd have a cam signal heading to the ECU for a more sequential system.

My elite 750 has 6 drivers. Wired directly. 
 

Spark plugs are definitely fouled. 

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Tioga has been helping me a lot!  I think I have a better handle on the haltech software, which is very complicated.  

 

A few things we have found/ learned  

 

I was using stock plugs, which I switched in at some point.  I upgraded to plugs with resistors (BPR6ES)

 

I was attempting to use throttle % for maps, but no map existed.  All were map.  So I don't know what the ecu was even doing or deciding what do to.  Tioga gave me some helpful maps to use as a base for throttle % based tune. 

 

I figured out how to turn data logging on.  

 

I am kind of hopeful that the spark plug without resistors could be my issue.  Causing feedback all across my ecu and wiring, and causing the injectors to drop or misfire.  Gosh that would be a easy fix and dumb of me to miss that.  

 

Thanks again Tioga! 

 

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Well injectors are back and I have efi spark plugs. 
 

I spent a while tuning this weekend and with Tioga’s help I think I finally found one of my major problems.  The tps was set at its highest sensitivity. It would bounce from .34-.49. Thus causing the ecu to think it needs to apply timing and fuel and making it run terrible. I turned it to the lowest and it’s rock solid at 0% and .01 of a voltage change. 
 

Haltech is a nice system. But wow is there a lot of settings. 
 

If anyone needs Z car help. I would recommend Tioga with Automotive Solutions! 

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Well I’m probably a idiot. But I decided to swap my Jenvey throttles bodies out for something a little more vintage/ classic. 

These are late 70s early 80s SK throttle bodies. They are 47mm that taper to 45. I picked them up off yahoo japan. They have a nice vac balance port on them. I bought two sets off a single seller. 

Now time to fabricate a single piece fuel rail and find a tps sensor that works. They should match my SK intake nicely. The old SK stuff is so nicely cast. I’m excited!

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My 3.1ish stroker build ran into a small issue. The block will need to be clearanced a little more. The extra long stroked LD crank (84.6) is to blame. 

The engine can be rotated, and it just barely touches about one time out of three. That’s just the .002” of bearing clearance rocking one way or another.

Deck height is within .002” of each other. 

Andrew Kazanis is a L series wizard. Hopefully when he retires he will build Datsun motors and especially do more head work.

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Rebello pistons just got back from ceramic coating by Performance Coatings, Inc. No clue if it was a good idea or not. But we decided to give it a try. 

Ceramic on top, anti scuff on sides, thermal barrier on bottom.

The color is more of a bronze then the picture is showing.

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I finally got all my vintage SK throttle bodies from japan. I’m super happy with the casting and the overall design of them. The inner fit or choke they use is pretty interesting. Without its 47 tapered to 45mm. Oer actually still uses the same design, and I can buy different inner fits. The right 3 are 40mm throttle bodies. The left 4 are 45s. I believe it’s the same casting. But actually sleeved differently not machined. 

Luckily one has a D shaft end and my tps sensors all work on it. 

One of the vacuum accumulation block things even has either a map signal or a iac valve in it. Pretty darn cool for something so old. 

I really like that they look a little more Mikuni/ dcoe carb. The stacks are super beefy.

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Vintage Sk throttle body update. I think I found a injector style I like and a oring I like. The injector has a long nozzle and 8 tiny spray holes. The O-ring is some  Porsche 16.5mm one meant to adapt newer style injectors, but fits perfectly. Almost too tight, but firmly presses in.  Shouldn’t leak air at all and remain snug. 

I also picked a fuel rail for my vintage ITB. It’s the stock that Tsumori uses in Japan. I couldn’t find anything I loved. I will be doing clear anodized on the fuel rail parts. 

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What is the spray angle of that injector. Not the degree of the cone but the angle the cone comes out at or two cones come out at. With the strange offset injector placement it will be helpful to know so you can try to index it to keep the fuel off the Side of the port. It is hard these days to find single cone injectors since 99% of the motors today have two intake valves. 

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On 11/7/2020 at 4:21 PM, tioga said:

What is the spray angle of that injector. Not the degree of the cone but the angle the cone comes out at or two cones come out at. With the strange offset injector placement it will be helpful to know so you can try to index it to keep the fuel off the Side of the port. It is hard these days to find single cone injectors since 99% of the motors today have two intake valves. 

Dual V spray is pretty much all that is offered in the newer injector styles. I went back on which one I am picking, I found a ford GT injector that meets my demands, I have one coming to test fit.  It's a 20-30 degree cone style spray.  So slightly better.  I don't think I need the long nozzle.  I think the spray pattern will exit fine without.  

 

I am curious if the spray angle for the OER/ SK will overall hurt performance slightly.  Maybe it will be a wash with the taper bore?  

 

Polishing some stacks.  

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