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I got all my boots in, I wish there was an easy way to test the coils.  But I know the spring is compressed on the spark plug, so I should be good.

 

How has everyone run new ecu wiring into the engine bay?

My early 240z has dealer AC. Which complicates things. Really I only have two holes open. The choke cable hole and the tunnel hole near the shifter. I would rather not cut any holes.

If I leave the coil power wiring in the engine bay and do the o2 sensor and maybe the triggers for the coils through tunnel hole I am thinking I might have enough room for it with those two holes? It’s going to be tight, but I think I can do it all clean and nice. I will be using german braied loom for the whole project.

No pulsed outputs.

Plans

Choke hole
Injector wiring
Cas wiring
Air temp
Coolant temp
TPS 
Crank trigger wiring

Tunnel hole
Injector triggers 
Power and ground 
O2 sensor

Fuel pump wiring is already in place.

 

I also got in the euro kit from Hoke for my crank trigger.  Which should work better on my series 1 dampener.  I have to remove .08 from the backside to have it perfect.  Then off to paint.  Blue or black?! 

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What ECU are you using? To me, splitting the engine harness to exit through two holes and then rejoin at different connectors sounds like an easily avoided nightmare. I'd suggest running everything out of the tunnel, unless you wanted to install some kind of bulkhead connector in the choke hole. 

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Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential.  

 

I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd.  I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest.  Which has the correct trigger wheel.  Pretty neat.  

Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend.  Pretty excited! 

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I also got my haltech in. I opted for the non terminated ended one. It’s has a very fancy fuse panel, relay board and it’s nice small package. 

 

I am taking my kick panel and having it copied in aluminum. Then powder coated (wrinkle or semi gloss?), I will use it to mount my ecu, tach signal converter and the fuse panel. 

 


 

 

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Edited by DuffyMahoney

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On 8/31/2019 at 6:41 AM, DuffyMahoney said:

I got my Jenvy throttles in from Datsun Spirit. 

 

I found out they each have a 6mm vacuum port on top! . I will use these for map, FPR and maybe IAC. 

Those look great! 

 

For getting good MAP signal, be sure to run all the lines together into some sort of manifold. ITB's are annoying to tune already, having weak MAP signal will make it 10x worse, particularly at low end where presumable the ECU is going to actually attempt to reference MAP.

 

Not sure that you need vac signal to your FPR, most EFI installs want constant pressure. Personally, I would put the IAC sensor on a bracket near the intake horns. Something about trying to get a temp signal from vacuum seems off to me.

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Air temp will be right next to the velocity stacks.  Most likely off a stack bolt.  

 

I will do a small map LOG just off the throttle bodies.  The jenvy has a nice 6mm vac port on them.  I haven't decided on IAC or not yet.  But the same vac port would work for it.  

 

 

Edited by DuffyMahoney

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11 hours ago, Ben280 said:

Not sure that you need vac signal to your FPR, most EFI installs want constant pressure.

 

What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation.

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15 hours ago, Leon said:

 

What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation.

 

On a street driven car traditional plenum style intake sure! Referencing engine vacuum is useful while the car is at idle to improve fuel economy and maybe a LITTLE drivability, and in a boosted configuration it's essential to a safe motor. In my particular case, (NA, spends a lot of time at WOT) I would rather provide the ECU with a good MAP signal, and use the VE tables in the computer to control fueling. I think particularly with ITB's they develop such poor vacuum at really anything above 30% throttle, having the FPR reference anything is diminishing returns. For me, it's one more thing that can break, so I ignore it. 

 

I'm not a tuning wizard, but I've been running my fuel setup like this for 6+ years and have made pretty good power so far! 

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