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DuffyMahoney

1971 240z ITB install

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Couple of things to consider regarding injector clocking:

 

Do your injectors spray at an angle, or straight? It at an angle, you'll have to aim them so they don't spray onto a port wall. And the connectors will point where they point. No choice. 

 

Will you be able to plug and unplug the injector connectors with them facing down? It's not a good idea to be turning them around and stressing the O-rings whenever you need to unplug an injector. 

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Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, bradyzq said:

Also, if there's room, swap the injectors and crank sensor wires. 

 

These injectors can be pointed any direction. I will leave enough pig tail for each to plug and unplug easily.  Shouldn't be an issue.  I am copying the datsun spirit wiring and injector wiring setup.  I bought the kit from them.  

 

Swap wires?  No room to change any of the wiring without a ton of effort.  It's all shielded and should be perfectly fine though.  I am using a hall effect home sensor on the cam. Not enough wiring length for the crank sensor wiring to be on the injector side.   

Edited by DuffyMahoney

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I wish they had a one piece fuel rail in this same style. Since jenvey knows the spacing they could make one. The custom tubular rails they offer have a much clunkier mounting setup. When you cut you connecting tubes make sure you put a nice chamfer on them. They like to catch the o-rings. 

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Is the spacing really different between the carbs on different intakes? I suspect it may be the same. They are taking each pair of ports and either bringing them together or apart to DCOE spacing. They do this symmetrically so the end result would be the same. I have a air filter base plate stuffed away somewhere. One day I will pull it out and check a few intakes. 

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1 hour ago, tioga said:

Is the spacing really different between the carbs on different intakes? I suspect it may be the same. They are taking each pair of ports and either bringing them together or apart to DCOE spacing. They do this symmetrically so the end result would be the same. I have a air filter base plate stuffed away somewhere. One day I will pull it out and check a few intakes. 


I have owned 4 triple intakes. All are slightly different lengths, spacing etc... the dcoe pattern spacing is the same. But spacing from carb to carb would be different. 

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Posted (edited)

I understand how they could be but being different but that would mean a asymmetrical runner length. Here is a very old Australian intake against a old TWM and they are exactly the same. I measured my mangoletsi  and it is the same too.  

BABBE6AA-0A3D-4DC0-BCFE-AD83C4570483.jpeg

Edited by tioga

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Those look to be very similar intakes.

 

I would guess most intakes were copies of designs.  So similar runner length and spacing.  Maybe I am wrong. Who knows, point being I dislike the look of fuel rails:) I was going to cover my tubes between ITB in some sort of cloth to mimic fuel hose, but decided against it when i didn't have any on hand.  

 

I have owned a Harada, FET, SK and TWM.  I love my SK, to me it'just old school cool with the linkage.  Plus the casting is light years nicer then the harada.  Which I couldn't live with.  

 

 

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I too am a collector of old Datsun stuff and have several different triple intakes now. I am installing a harada for a customer as we speak. I do not have a SK and was about to buy one before the British pound too a huge swing down at the beginning of Brexit. When that happened I ordered a Mangoletsi and it is the nicest I have see so far. The port match template is very well done. I will say the very old TWM in that pic has a great casting. There are other things about it I don’t like but casting quality is great and very short. 

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They are not similar at all. Very different lengths,  different method of cross shaft,  the lower one is a Australian Redline 12-3126 and has a drilling that connects the ports of cylinder 5 & 6 for vacuum signal. It could also be drilled all the way through and bridge all 6 ports. The one I have is from 1974 but is still made today. 

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I am thinking of powder coating it to match the throttles. What do you think? I thing it would look like a complete package. I just sent 4 valve covers and thermostat housings to be done as well as my coil bracket. 

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The powder coater I am using had a very well done l6 turbo valve cover done that had the box and turbo raw. He said he wiped the powder off prior to baking. Looked great. He is doing a jdm NISSAN valve cover for me that way. We’ll see how it looks

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This is my plan for the injector positive. Basically a Y splice and crimp. The pulley wire isn’t cut. Just the sheath is removed. Then crimped another wire onto it. Then a dab of soldier. Then heat shrink. Should work perfectly. It’s just going to take a long time! 

04F38109-E0BF-46BF-A818-AC6E031CB5E5.jpeg

1BDA21B9-3CDB-4C31-98CF-CF2C327EA37A.jpeg

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You should not solder. That makes the joint brittle not better. Crimp heat shrink and move on. No auto manufacturers solder the joint. And that’s not because it takes more time. It is understood that that puts a stress area in the harness 

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