Reverse cable action on Weber triples.

[tioga]

I am doing a big job for a customer at my shop and decided to take a different route with the choke action on triple 45’s. I have done the long cable around to the 1st carb and the lever/bell crank action on the 1st rod end but neither were as neat and clean as this in my opinion. Now I do have a set of right hand action N.O.S. Weber enrichment levers but I can’t stand to use them. I think this is the next best thing.

 

I have a parking brake cable boot coming I will put on the nipple coming out of the fire wall and think I will add a cable receiver to the end of the link rod to make that look a little more finished but overall very happy with the way this came out. 

 

This car car is getting t3 front and rear brakes, wilwood master cyl, auto to 240sx 5speed conversion with aluminum driveshaft shop shaft, lowered springs. Shocks, 16” panasports,  aluminum radiator with dual electric fans & dc controls continuously variable cooling fan speed controller. That is round 1. 

[tioga]

I am also a lover of nut-serts and used them on the radiator fan shroud so it can be bolted in like stock. The fans also are bolted on with nut-serts. And again used them backwards to stand off the fan speed controller. 

[Lazeum]

Your setup is very neat. I’ve been thinking about a solution for awhile. Your setup looks so simple - which is great - I’m jealous you thought about it, not me :)

congrats!

[tioga]

Thanks. So simple and hidden at the same time. I always looked at a cable as the wire that does the work but that is not the case.  Both housing and cable do the work together. 

 

The brake cable boot boot worked perfect too, 

[JohnH]

Never needed chokes on my triple 45 Webers. A couple of pumps on the throttle pedal before cranking it cold & it fires up. In fact I removed the chokes & replaced them with block off plates.

[tioga]

What’s your point? Because you had a rich enough mixture to produce a satisfactory cold start doesn’t mean it was the correct way to do it. All the old Porsche carbureted cars have no cold enrichment device. When set up with a ideal idle mixture while hot it is hard to start when cold so you compromise the warm mixture to help you start it. This is a customer car with carbs that came with a cold enrichment device that I chose to have operational for the customer and was demonstrating the way I did it for other people who want to run it on theirs. 

[Lazeum]

My car would stall as well if I do not have choke enabled or I would have to play with gas pedal as long as the car is not moving. We could live without it but it is nice to have it.

[JohnH]

On 10/30/2019 at 3:05 PM, tioga said:

What’s your point? Because you had a rich enough mixture to produce a satisfactory cold start doesn’t mean it was the correct way to do it.

 

Doesn't mean its incorrect either! Weber DCOE's have an accelerator pump that is activated when the throttle level is pushed from closed position. So unless you are running a large ratio of bleed back valve to pump jet size only a couple of pumps are required to adequately prime the engine for startup or in the higher ratio case a few extra pumps on the throttle.

Edited November 1, 2019 by JohnH

[tioga]

It kind of does.  Im not saying it’s not done or doable. Like I said Porsche did it on production cars. In that case they did give you a mechanical lever to raise idle by simply pulling on the throttle cable. This helped keep the motor running and sped up the warming process. 
   A motor when cold requires a LOT of extra fuel to run correctly. This shows up the most at idle when it can easily stall. The accelerator pump will give it the shot of fuel it needs to ignite but after that your motor does not run/idle well. You can continue to tap the pedal to add accelerator pump fuel and help out. I am not saying it doesn’t work or that I haven’t done it but there are better ways to start a engine. When you have a cold enrichment devise already installed why not take advantage of it. A motor set up with the correct 12.5-14.7 ratio usually on one of these old L6’s they idle pretty well warm with a high 13’s to low 14’s idle mixture. This same mixture will not work nearly as well on a cold motor. Especially if you live where temps in winter can be near zero.