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I thought is ok idea because bolts are still there. Force just going on larger area.  On 240z body there could even be glued carefully shape part around door supporting that flimsy a-pillar. It could even be aluminium. 

Sure i would not glue differential to body.  

 

But on sway bars its not just bolt ripping thru, its rail cracking above rail and wheelwell

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Ok, I see what you're talking about. You're just mounting a spacer under the sway bar.

 

Most people affix that by just running the bolts through it and that's it.

 

However,  you shouldn't sandwich dissimilar metals together. That creates rust.

 

Look up galvanic corrosion if you're dead set on using those.

Edited by Neverdone

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Cut your spacer to the same oval shape of the foot plate of the brace.  Coat the spacer with a little primer and enamel.  Put it between the foot plate and the bracket holding the bushing.  Even if you run into a little galvanic corrosion it won't be your frame rail.

 

In my raised Outback, I've have 1" think aluminum spacers between the strut top and the body and between the rear suspension stabilizer brace and the body for over 10 years.  There's no paint on the spacers.  They do sit on the factory paint that comes on the body and braces (shiny black enamel).  It's my DD and my snowmobile for skiing. Granted it lives in Norther CA but So far no rust.

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987110d1431188738t-corroded-nipples-carb

this is the thing from bicycle scene, carbon rims with alloy nipples. But i dont know, those conditions are bit different than my car which sits maybe 300days a year in dry garage. 

I remember vw golf mk2 had cast iron block, alloy gearbox and engine was grounded from gearbox, no underbelly and salty finnish conditions, many cars had issues with that.

 

Damn, almost every part i add or change has been heavier than original. Didn´t weight but that 20mm front swaybar felt like its double the weight of 18mm, and rear bar heavier than front.

i believe car might tip the scale 1200kg already. Just scaled my diff, 28.9kg thats heavier than stock R180? 2 recaro seats are worth 3 stock seats

Edited by manninen

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c3kL6C9.jpg

Today i took transverse links out and made jig for it.

Now i can start design one piece transverse links. im using stock transverse member at this point. Stock material is 4mm but i think im going for 5mm, just have to make few holes to keep it light. Very rough sketch above :)

 

Stock moustache bar and transverse links weight around 6.1kg

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On 1/15/2020 at 12:51 PM, manninen said:

Damn, almost every part i add or change has been heavier than original.

 

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Some ripping on right side PU bushing too

 

280z must have different parts cause they are so much heavier? Techno toy tuning arms weight 2kg more than early 240z part?

Edited by manninen

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22 minutes ago, Whitley_280z_2+2 said:

How did you get an output on an oscilloscope? Do you supply power and the voltage oscillates to pulse the axle breaks? Maybe that’s a stupid question but I’m an electrical engineering student and this stuff is interesting! 

 

Generally wheel speed sensors are VR sensors, which just produce an AC voltage when you spin a toothed wheel in front of them. Connect an oscilloscope across the leads and you'll get a signal if you spin it (above a small minimum speed).

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ioCx0DY.jpg?1

260z 2+2 swaybars are in, raving about shortened 18mm front bar on other thread but won´t do by now, reason clearance to alternator.

 

18mm

20mm

 

but i think im good with these 20mm´s. Front being heavier than stock 2+2 and added caster causing more roll sensitivity, added stiffness moving sway bar link from control arm to strut might level those two factors.

 

Found out my front struts are KYB excel-g and springs are stock US A/T springs

Edited by manninen

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BMW uses a press in bearing and wheel hub flange instead of an easy to replace and far better self enclosed wheel hub/bearing like damn near everyone else.

 

You'd have to weld on a tube that's within tolerance of the rear wheel bearing to be able to press it in if you want to use BMW parts.

 

Or you get 930 CV's and make custom length axles that bolt to the output flange of the BMW diff and make a custom companion flange/adapter that works with the stock stub axle.

 

 

EDIT: Actually, the E39 uses bolt in wheel hub bearings, and has axles that can bolt to an M3 diff. Sooo....maybe? Would probably have to do work dealing with the brake caliper mount, but it's possible to go full BMW if ya wanted to.

Edited by Neverdone

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5 hours ago, Invincibleextremes said:

Are BMW hub bearings bolt on? If they are you could have someone cut something like this, hack it together and use your diff, and all BMW bearings and brakes.

 

I use this as part of a completely different (mustang) IRS diff setup but you may have good results with a similar concept.

IMG_20200203_223205_260.jpg

This type of parts looks best swap before changing whole rear axle to something else, S13 ,S14, R32 or even something else.

My fragile parts has been fine cause automatic transmission, Small case bmw diff can be broke even stock 4-cylinder bmw engine with manual transmission.

 

Started wiring abs so they are 80% done

 

 

damn shieet, that barra looks similar to OM606. CLEAN!!

Edited by manninen

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