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Stuck oil pump, can't remove from timing cover.

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hey all,

 

i'm attempting to remove my oil pump. i was able to remove the 3 of the 4 bolts securing it to the timing cover. The 4th bolt (one of the longer bolts) sheared off at the head. So, in theory, the pump should fall right out. i've tapped the pump with a hammer, but it's not budging. i tried to separating the pump, but that too is stuck. the pump is spinning, and not frozen.

 

any advice? thanks in advance.

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Heat, get a torch in there around the join between the pump and block, get it smoking hot and cool it by spraying it with WD40, pb blaster or such and repeat a couple times. Give the pump a hard whack with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and keep at it until the corrosion breaks.  You will probably need a new pump anyway,  the real problem will come when the pump is off and now you have to get the remaining broken bolt out without hurting the internal threads, but again heat it and cool it rapidly.

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7 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Heat, get a torch in there around the join between the pump and block, get it smoking hot and cool it by spraying it with WD40, pb blaster or such and repeat a couple times. Give the pump a hard whack with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and keep at it until the corrosion breaks.  You will probably need a new pump anyway,  the real problem will come when the pump is off and now you have to get the remaining broken bolt out without hurting the internal threads, but again heat it and cool it rapidly.

thanks for the suggestion! i'll give it some heat and see.

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You may already know this trick; but one of the best ways to tackle that frozen bolt is to weld a nut on the remaining portion of the bolt shaft.  It would still be a good idea to hit the bolt with heat and penetrating oil; but after the pump's off, you can apply directly where it enters the block and get the heat and oil much closer to the problem area. 

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27 minutes ago, luigi said:

I might be way off, and I'm not near a L Series right now. Can the distributor and drive be removed from the "top" and the oil pump tapped out?   

The drive can't come out through the top, but the distributor can be removed and the drive tapped down.

 

I also believe the whole timing cover could be removed with the oil pump and drive still in place, which might make it easier to work with (or just outright replace)

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5 hours ago, ZHoob2004 said:

The drive can't come out through the top, but the distributor can be removed and the drive tapped down.

 

I also believe the whole timing cover could be removed with the oil pump and drive still in place, which might make it easier to work with (or just outright replace)

I don't think you can tap the oil pump drive shaft down because the drive gear is meshed with the crankshaft,  hmmm, I guess if the oil pump drive shaft turned while being hit then maybe, still sounds iffy to me.

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7 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I don't think you can tap the oil pump drive shaft down because the drive gear is meshed with the crankshaft,  hmmm, I guess if the oil pump drive shaft turned while being hit then maybe, still sounds iffy to me.

I'm going from memory here, but the shaft sits in the oil pump and then the whole assembly is fed up into the timing cover from below. The crankshaft drive gear, pulley, and everything else (including the whole timing setup) can already be assembled at this point. The oil pump/distributor shaft will rotate along with the helix of the drive gear as it comes into mesh. Hence the difficulty some have in getting the shaft properly aligned with TDC.

 

Tapping it downwards will just reverse this motion, though it may give some trouble in this situation, same with everything else. Though I'm starting to think op might find these parts unusable anyway based on the amount of persuasion they are needing.

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