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set up wheels ( for track or general...)


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would anyone be interested in set up wheels for their z? I am currently desgining some for a race car and the design is quite adjustable and would work with a z quite well.... dependson your hubs and what you want but feel free to message me for info on prices and designing to your spec and needs!

 

They look like a cross between these

image.jpeg.8ede9d6ab02da2451b258e312bbaa753.jpeg

 

and these 

image.jpeg.a7285f511c67d72e29cbf24b648973af.jpeg

 

They will be laser cut (or water jet still working out...) aluminum or steel depending on want and need and supplied with ball transfers for the feet and proper hardware, the system has been designed in cad, tested in real life and also tested in FEA to ensure that they wont buckle and hardware is adequete. I can add logos or labels on them as well. comment or message me if youre interested they make adjusting your suspension a breeze!

 

edited to say i can add logo

Edited by nzarano
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16 hours ago, 260DET said:

Colour me ignorant but what are 'set up wheels'?

 

Wheels for setting up your car 😉

 

The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels

 

It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/17/2020 at 11:03 PM, zbloke said:

 

Wheels for setting up your car 😉

 

The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels

 

It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way 

exactly this! my designs were made for a race team to help make toe, camber, etc adjustments quickly. We can change set up 3 times a day during testing and they can be quite different set ups. probably only for people tracking their car that wants better accuracy than standard at home adjustment methods and dont want to have to pay someone to adjust their suspension. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/11/2020 at 7:59 PM, nzarano said:

exactly this! my designs were made for a race team to help make toe, camber, etc adjustments quickly. We can change set up 3 times a day during testing and they can be quite different set ups. probably only for people tracking their car that wants better accuracy than standard at home adjustment methods and dont want to have to pay someone to adjust their suspension. 

 

So ,in addition to the OP's setup jigs, what budget alignment equipment would be needed?

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On 2/21/2020 at 1:30 PM, JMortensen said:

Main thing is a flat surface to set them on. Can do most of the rest with digital level and tape measure. I find measuring caster to be a real PITA. That would be easier with turn plates, but then you'd need 4 or at least platforms in the back to get back to level again.

 

flat surface is ideal, however with ball transfers and level these can compensate slightly.....they can also come with load sensors to do corner weights. For caster turn in plates do help but arent necessary. these can help with measuring caster as well. really help with all measruements if you use them right. theyre used by most racing teams because theyre quick, easy, and dont take up alot of space

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The flip side of taking the wheels off is that you can get to the tie rods and whatever other adjustments you have a lot easier. When I have done string alignments getting at the adjusters is really difficult, and one time I tried putting the car up on a couple of piece of wood stacked up with greased floor tiles for slip plates. When I was making adjustments the car wanted to slide off of the plates. Only would have fallen 3", but still not a good feeling when you're laying on the shop floor with your head stuck under there. 

 

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The easiest alignment system I've found are strings.  If you take some time and make a simple jig the is centered on the car these are easy to setup and use.  If you don't need to worry about the car being squared up toe plates where you use two tape measures are also a good choice.  But whatever you do will require access to the adjusters.  The trickest system I ever saw was from Riley & Scott on a world challenge touring car.  They had rods they screwed into receptacles on the frame.  The had a laser and a target on the same end and on the opposite end you'd mount a mirror to the their setup wheels, which in this case were a special set of tires that were never used mounted on modified wheels that allow attachment of the mirror.  The laser would shoot down the side of the car parallel to the frame and bounce off the mirror and back to the target.  Accuracy was claimed at one tenth of a degree according to one of the mechanics I chatted with.  He even let me inside the pen for a closer look.

 

I like to go to the pro races and watch the top teams when they do boring things like basic maintenance.  Setup wheels are used a lot and often while sitting on scales.  You have much better access to all the adjusters and can do easier brake maintenance, ride heights, and so on.  For most of us this would be a shop only item to use.  

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On the note for string alignments, how are you guys finding the center of the vehicle? I did a string alignment, based on all wheels being equal width. With adjustable control arms, I figure finding the actual center is crucial.

Edited by HuD 91gt
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17 hours ago, HuD 91gt said:

On the note for string alignments, how are you guys finding the center of the vehicle? I did a string alignment, based on all wheels being equal width. With adjustable control arms, I figure finding the actual center is crucial.

 

The strings are a box around the vehicle.  You don't really need to be centered but you do need to be perpendicular to the front/rear, which often ends up referencing  a body panel or a crossmember.  This is a good example of the work involved, https://www.turnology.com/features/easy-accurate-inexpensive-do-it-yourself-vehicle-alignment/.  It looks more complicated than it is to do.  You can also do the same thing with jack stands and fishing line but that takes a little longer to get setup.  There are a number of videos on youtube that show how to do it various ways.  

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I’ve use that base on the stock hub widths.   Using a body panel when trying to get accurate measurements seems a bit loose.   Using crossmember mounting points makes sense to me, I’m just curious if anyone had a good an accurate way other then running a square to the ground from said points and making lines. When trying to measure within 1/8”-1/16” it seems being accurate all around is key. I suppose the negative side would be a slight dog walk stance going down the road.

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