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73 240z - Ready to swap 2JZ-GTE


Huntziilla

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Hi guys!

 

This is my 1st post, however I have been reading this forum and the Classic Z Car forum since 2002. The references that I found at these forums is the only reason my Z got on the road. I drove it with the L24 running Holley 4 Barrel carbs from 2004 to 2010 and loved it. The only thing I didn't love was tuning the car weekly to almost daily with as much as I was driving it. I have been dreaming of a swap since I got the car but budget wise it wasn't in the mix back then. I just recently sold my house and daily drivers and moved to California. So, now I have budgeted $8K for this build, but can go over if needed.

 

I have extensively read the sticky on this swap, but I just want to hear from you guys because I know I will be needing your help VERY SOON!

 

  • I have found a JDM Import Shop here in Sacramento, http://northwestjdmmotors.com/product/jdm-toyota-2jzgte-vvti-engine/ and I have spoken with them and their looking for a 2JZ-GTE with an R154 Trans for me.
    • The one in the link is a FRONT SUMP, I am pretty sure that will not work correct?
      • 2JZ-GTE asking $3K
      • R154 Trans asking $1800
      • Pair of Subaru STI Seats asking $400
        • Planning on negotiating to $4500-4800
          • Let me know if this sounds fair to you guys
  • I have a friend who is a Master Subaru Mechanic coming up for 10 days to complete the swap in the near future
    • I sold most of my tools in the move to CA, still have socket sets, drills, screw gun
    • My neighbor can lend me any specialty tools I may need to start
      • Recommended tools for the project?
        • Engine Hoist
        • ???
    • I'd like to buy all of the parts that I will need to order before he arrives
      • pair of Jaguar XJS V12 engine mounts
      • Wiring harnesses?
      • etc. ?
  • All the little things?
    • Anything I should do while the engine and transmission is out?
    • Any parts or tools or anything really that you guys ran into that I may want to know
  • I'll post pics of the Z soon!

 

I plan on hitting this hot and heavy between mid Feb and March.

 

Thanks,

Hunter

Edited by Huntziilla
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Welcome to the forums! @Huntziilla

 

-Was the engines compression checked? Youll need a rear sump because of the front cross member. Are you dead set on going with the R154? Have you considered any other transmissions that may be cheaper?

-When I swapped my 1jz into my 72 the only specialty tool I used was an engine hoist.

-Are you planning on making your own engine mount? Up in Canada you can find an almost identical Jaguar mount at princess auto, which I beleive is similar to habour freight, and they sell for about $10.00 CAD for two.

-Looking at the link it looks like the engine wiring harness is there. Cannot see if its cut anywhere though. Hopefully someone can correct me if im wrong here but I would look at getting the ignitor and Map sensor included with the engine. I know when I purchased my 1jz it wasnt included and I did require it.

-While the engine is out depending on mileage, I would probably open up the valve covers and look inside of the oil pan just to see how everything is looking. I'd change the belts and potentially do the water pump at the same time.

 

Still waiting on picture of your car!!

Edited by Exposed
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I specifically purchased my 1jz vvti mostly to avoid some of the issues outlined. My engine was factory rear sump, and came with newer style R154. The correct pan can be purchased new for around $700, but that would raise the purchase price of an already expensive 2JZ. Yes used pans can be found, but even those are not that cheap bc of the demand. Compression testing should be done by the purchaser so you can verify accuracy of readings. I haven’t seen many instances of JZ’s that low. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Oh bummer I didn't get a chance to see this. My car is somewhere down there now in sunny california.

 

In case you are still in the planning stage.

 

Front sump will not work. You want the rear sump. Some people unscrupulously sell the mid sump as a rear sump on line. Study the pictures and find the rear sump.

 

The pan setups are expensive new, so best source that soon via junkyard, recycler, ebay. Depending on your goals, if you are going bottom up build, then the SC300 non VVTI block is also a viable option. If you are going to do piston and rods then really any engine variant is open for use. I have a thread in this sub forum outlining some differences, it is word heavy be warned.

 

Don't buy seats until you can physically try them in the car. The datsun setups is pretty thin and holds you at an angle. Other seats have built in angle and will result in you being lifted higher with your knees hitting the steering wheel if you aren't careful.

 

People also run the shit out of these motors because they are "indestructible". I would at least take the pan off and take a look inside, if it is heavily stained heavily consider opening up the motor. Mine had super hard white deposits on the inside on the bottom of the valves very happy I opened it up. I also found it had the cross hatch even after 120k miles so I felt comfortable leaving the bottom end. Take this time to replace the main seals, cam seals, etc. Look up information on the front main seal and the oil pump. Now is the time if you want to install an uprated oil pump and the front main seal protector or retainer. Look into replacing the tensioner and idler pulley. Crank pulley is also known to deteriorate. Look into a replacement. The bolts are also done up a ridiculous amount from the factory prepare to use a massive impact gun or like a 10 foot leverage pole. The head bolts are also notoriously easy to strip. Buy the correct 10 sided bit and take time to clean out the head of the bolt of oil residue or you will round these bolts and you will hate your life.

 

I would warn you away from the R154. It is pretty notchy and can have problems shifting into 1st and reverse and likes to grind. To make them better will require a trip to drift motion for better forks, and upgraded parts, but then you are looking at over $3k into the transmission. Consider spending $2k on a conversion setup to run either a BMW getrag from the 3 series or a Nissan CD009 from a 2005+ 350Z, they are much more affordable and regularly handle fairly large numbers, especially the CD009. 

 

Engine hoist

Engine leveler

Impact gun

Transmission Jack

Really tall Jack stands

Jack

Ramps

Welder

Basic tool set

Steel stock plate 3/16 is my favorite for mounts

Grinder

Hammer

Multimeter

Extra wiring

 

Tons of other stuff, but if you already started probably not as useful.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/24/2020 at 10:24 PM, seattlejester said:

Oh bummer I didn't get a chance to see this. My car is somewhere down there now in sunny california.

 

In case you are still in the planning stage.

 

Front sump will not work. You want the rear sump. Some people unscrupulously sell the mid sump as a rear sump on line. Study the pictures and find the rear sump.

 

The pan setups are expensive new, so best source that soon via junkyard, recycler, ebay. Depending on your goals, if you are going bottom up build, then the SC300 non VVTI block is also a viable option. If you are going to do piston and rods then really any engine variant is open for use. I have a thread in this sub forum outlining some differences, it is word heavy be warned.

 

Don't buy seats until you can physically try them in the car. The datsun setups is pretty thin and holds you at an angle. Other seats have built in angle and will result in you being lifted higher with your knees hitting the steering wheel if you aren't careful.

 

People also run the shit out of these motors because they are "indestructible". I would at least take the pan off and take a look inside, if it is heavily stained heavily consider opening up the motor. Mine had super hard white deposits on the inside on the bottom of the valves very happy I opened it up. I also found it had the cross hatch even after 120k miles so I felt comfortable leaving the bottom end. Take this time to replace the main seals, cam seals, etc. Look up information on the front main seal and the oil pump. Now is the time if you want to install an uprated oil pump and the front main seal protector or retainer. Look into replacing the tensioner and idler pulley. Crank pulley is also known to deteriorate. Look into a replacement. The bolts are also done up a ridiculous amount from the factory prepare to use a massive impact gun or like a 10 foot leverage pole. The head bolts are also notoriously easy to strip. Buy the correct 10 sided bit and take time to clean out the head of the bolt of oil residue or you will round these bolts and you will hate your life.

 

I would warn you away from the R154. It is pretty notchy and can have problems shifting into 1st and reverse and likes to grind. To make them better will require a trip to drift motion for better forks, and upgraded parts, but then you are looking at over $3k into the transmission. Consider spending $2k on a conversion setup to run either a BMW getrag from the 3 series or a Nissan CD009 from a 2005+ 350Z, they are much more affordable and regularly handle fairly large numbers, especially the CD009. 

 

Engine hoist

Engine leveler

Impact gun

Transmission Jack

Really tall Jack stands

Jack

Ramps

Welder

Basic tool set

Steel stock plate 3/16 is my favorite for mounts

Grinder

Hammer

Multimeter

Extra wiring

 

Tons of other stuff, but if you already started probably not as useful.

+1 on buying the correct tools for the head bolts, they were only like 14 bucks for a set of 4 at AutoZone in varying sizes. I don't even know how you would be able to remove those bolts if they were rounded.

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Drill it out and hope for the best? My heart skipped a beat when two of them rounded on me. Went back, cleaned the tops of the bolt to give me as much engagement as possible, tapped the 10 or whatever point tool it is as deep as it would go and then managed to brake those loose, tossed those real quick.

 

While here another piece of advice is to load the washers in the head before you put the head on the studs, the way the washers are it is nigh impossible to do so with the stud in place, I did it the wrong way and had to wind the stud out one at a time to load the washer individually after I placed the head.

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