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I wanted to go with this system, and was about to pull the trigger, but it's currently "out of stock".  Not sure if it's because of the Corona and lack of parts and supplies, or no one ordered it, and the Depot is waiting for enough "email me when available" requests to put it back in stock. 

 

I will end up going with the MegaSquirt, but I just didn't want to change out the distributor (I have a 1980).  Oh well.  What's an extra $200 when you are already spending $2k in parts?

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Surprising that it even started.  What was wrong with the 1983 EFI computer?  Why did you decide to buy the FAST EFI kit?  Might be a clue.   You showed a picture of your cylinder head tempe

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@tokuzumi The issue I was having turned out to be caused by the injectors. After looking through part numbers I found that my injectors were low ohm turbo injectors which do not work with the EZ EFI kit. However I am not very pleased with the overall experience I had with the EZ EFI kit, and would have much rather bought a megasquirt system if I knew then what I know now. EZ EFI works, but it's really made for big V8's not our small l28's. I literally had to turn every fuel setting to the minimum for the engine to even run, then let the ecu work the rest out. The instructions I was given from ZCAR DEPOT were extremely vague and their fuel rates for injectors that they tell you to input are totally wrong, plus I can't find any specs for the stock injectors of any L series so I am still trying to find that sweet spot. Other than the issues I have had in the past, the car runs great now. Revs to redline when it used to only get up to 4000. Idles perfectly whether it's freezing or 100 degrees out. But I still wish I bought a different system, with more tuneability, and probably will switch to meqasquirt or FAST's Sportsman EFI soon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It’s odd that on the fast efi site it says you can’t use low impedence injectors but zcardepot says it works with stock injectors and I have seen YouTube videos that show stock injectors and some that show the larger high impedence injectors.  I also emailed zcardepot about the stock and they said it’s due to supply line issues.  Can you post the settings you entered in the ez efi so we can look at what is working for you?

Edited by Ryanotown22
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This guy discusses the install process of the Holley kit on his 280Z.  Had some similar concerns as the OP.  He said install was overall pretty straightforward, but did leave some things to the imagination.  Most instructions were generic and geared towards V8 engines.  He did use  modern EV1 o-ring style injectors, so this probably helped out with the fueling system woes because of the stock injectors.

 

 

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22 hours ago, Ryanotown22 said:

It’s odd that on the fast efi site it says you can’t use low impedence injectors but zcardepot says it works with stock injectors and I have seen YouTube videos that show stock injectors and some that show the larger high impedence injectors.  I also emailed zcardepot about the stock and they said it’s due to supply line issues.  Can you post the settings you entered in the ez efi so we can look at what is working for you?

Setting I am using are as follows;

 

base fuel pressure; 25 psi

injector pressure; 19lb/hr @20 psi

Fuel trim; -8 for accel setting, zero for cranking.

AFR set to 14.1 at idle, 14.5 at cruise and 13.8 at wot

 idle set to 750 rpm

 

Arent stock injectors high impedance? My problem was that someone had put low impedance injectors on the car different from stock, so I bought OEM high impedence injectors from autozone.

 

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They're 188 mL(cc's), at 3 bar, apparently.  The design is licensed from Bosch, the Bosch 280-150-105 injectors are the same and often used in place of the factory injectors.

 

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

@Shiboh I got the system installed on my car now it’s a 78 280z I am using stock injectors with aeromotive adjustable FPR and a billet fuel rail with no cold start injector
 

here are my settings they are some differences on what your settings are. 

base fuel pressure; 40psi

injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi 

Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, zero for cranking.

AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot

idle set to 800 rpm

Engine size 171

rev limit 6000

Throttle body “other”

Injector count 6

I set my TPS to about .3 volts

set Fuel Pressure regulator to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle

I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body


I think I need to lower my accel value to -8 like you have it because it seems to really be dumping fuel under throttle and my AFR shows about 8.8 

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@Ryanotown22 How does it run at idle? and under load? After all I've found that my injectors are still the problem. I thought the stock injectors for the 83 ZX were high impedance, so I bought OEM style injectors for the FAST system, which turned out to be low impedance. These are what I will be replacing them with: https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/page/subpage/fuel-injector-upgrades/L28E-upgrade-injector.htm    If I were you I would test my injectors with a multi meter to make sure you're using high impedance injectors, as far as I can tell the stock injectors on most if not all N/A L28's are low impedance.

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@Shiboh It runs really good under idle and under load pulls really hard to 5k rpm I am assuming it would keep going but I generally don’t shift further than that.  I adjusted my distributor timing I had it way off at about 15 and I moved it back to 5 btdc then I recalibrated it all using the wizard. After that my AFR range is normal although sometimes it drops into the 8 but only momentarily.  Normally it will just go down to 11-12. Idles at 13.9 like I programmed it.  My injectors are low impedance and I tested them with the ohm meter. I still have to do more driving to have it learn all the way but I have been pretty happy with the system. One thing I know is you need to make sure you have no vacuum and exhaust leaks or that will mess up all your readings and will run bad. If i have fuel trim at anything more than -6 it will not run well at all. During acceleration it almost dies. But if I have it at -6, -7, -8 it runs fine 

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@Ryanotown22 Nice, so is your AFR staying steady? I'm pretty sure that the EZ EFI system is only supposed to work with high impedance injectors, just to be safe I'd make sure that's what you're using, otherwise the injectors are gonna push alot more fuel than the ECU thinks they are.

 

As it sits we have almost the exact same system, yet mine runs worse than yours it seems. My AFR is contantly jumping up and down 15.9-12.0 back and forth during idle and under any load, although not as much during WOT. Vacuum readings are great at all rpms. Fuel pressure is great. No exhaust or intake leaks. I have a feeling if not the injectors it may be the IAC calibration. My IAC somehow uncalibrated itself and the idle screw doesn't move enough to get it to where it's supposed to be for calibration anymore. My idle screw is one of the weird ones on the side of the manifold. That system is also connected to the BCDD before the idle screw, which I would think would allow un-metered air into the engine, but I'm not really sure how the BCDD is supposed to work. 

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@Shiboh yes it is very steady AFR at idle fluctuates less than to maybe 13.5-14.5 when it’s warmed up but usually less than that even. I do not have my BCDD anymore maybe you have an air leak there.  My IAC is in the green zone when warmed up. When it’s cold started it’s to the right of the green zone. Is your needle to the left or to the right of the green zone?  I think left is too much air and right is too little air but that’s just a guess

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@Shiboh my need was all the way left until I turned my idle speed screw all the way in and left the IAC control the air.  
I am including two videos of one at startup and one after warmup let me know if you want to see anything else on video

 

Cold (cold is not really that cold it’s Arizona in the summer yes it’s 116 in my garage)

 

warm

 

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