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Rear Outer Brake Hose Question


Twisted46

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Is the rear outer brake hose the thread at both ends style or does the caliper end have a banjo bolt connection? asking for a friend..

But really I did the 280zx rear swap on my 260z and purchased zx outer brake hoses and the male and female ends are both threaded. They thread nicely in to the calipers but I have been fighting with them leaking at the threads the entire time. I can get them to stop with some thread sealant but that is not the permanent solution. After looking at various vendors I have seen mixed information some sell a banjo bolt style (less common) and the rest sell a regular threaded hose. 

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This is the front brake from an 83, it's the same hose as the back but longer. I am too lazy to take the back wheels off. It's also the same on an 81. Those are the only years I am certain of. Threaded on both sides. Hopefully this helps.

15869974724281507618920197346128.jpg

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____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

WARNING

I recommend that you have an experienced mechanic work with you or do the installation. You can kill yourself or others!

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

A caliper that is machined for a banjo fitting and will leak if you screw a regular brake line into it. A banjo fitting is sealed by crush washers.  Other brake lines have flared fittings that seal mechanically when mated.

 

You are not plumbing a sink. Never, ever, seal brake lines with any kind of sealant. When properly installed, brake lines seal mechanically.

 

Replace the line you bought with one that has a banjo fitting on the end that connects to the caliper. Be sure to use fresh crush washers under the banjo fitting each time you remove the hose. You can buy the crush washers at any auto parts store. They are either aluminum or copper.
 

If you have drained all of the fluid out of the system and the  MC, you will have to remove the MC and bench bleed it. Do a search for instructions.

 

People have trouble bleeding the 280ZX/240SX style calipers. You can remove the caliper, block the pistons from moving,  orient the bleeder straight up and also shake the caliper while bleeding the lines and calipers to get all of the air out.   Note : if you forget to block the pistons, they will blow out when your helper steps on the pedal and you will be very very very sad.

 

Be safe!

 

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Thanks Miles, don't disagree with you at all.

 

Here is the issue, I bought calipers for an 83ZX that appear to be banjo bolt connections but all the vendors sell 280ZX lines and M10 threaded at both ends. 

The sealant was just to see if the threads were cut poorly in one component and clearly not the issue. If you check any of the vendors Z specific or otherwise they sell M10 threaded lines for the 280ZX. 

 

This tells me:

1 - All the vendors don't know the 280ZX had banjo rear brakes (even a Nissan diagram shows an M10 line so I don't think this is the case.)

2 - New 280ZX calipers are not being made to OE specification on the inlet.

 

I am trying to figure out what lines to buy, that is all.

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4 hours ago, Twisted46 said:

Thanks Miles, don't disagree with you at all.

 

Here is the issue, I bought calipers for an 83ZX that appear to be banjo bolt connections but all the vendors sell 280ZX lines and M10 threaded at both ends. 

The sealant was just to see if the threads were cut poorly in one component and clearly not the issue. If you check any of the vendors Z specific or otherwise they sell M10 threaded lines for the 280ZX. 

 

This tells me:

1 - All the vendors don't know the 280ZX had banjo rear brakes (even a Nissan diagram shows an M10 line so I don't think this is the case.)

2 - New 280ZX calipers are not being made to OE specification on the inlet.

 

I am trying to figure out what lines to buy, that is all.

I would like to see a photo of your calipers. I dont think banjos have been used on any of the s130's. I had a hell of a time a few years ago getting any calipers. I was sent several wrong sets. I wouldn't be surprised if you got your hands on the wrong ones as well. I will even put my shoes on and take the rear wheels off to compare the calipers.

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Here is the best picture I have on hand. I should have the car up this weekend to get a better one.  I talked to ZCD and they suggested that I use Maxima or 240SX lines.

 

Miles, 

Been there done that, they are all for Maxima calipers not the 280ZX. Both Modern Motorsport and ZCD spec there kits with maxima calipers and lines. I am using custom brackets $$$ with late 280ZX calipers to get the larger pistons. To me it looks like maxima lines will work so I'm not too worried about that. My point is that a new set of 280ZX calipers is threaded for a banjo bolt when that is not the OE connection. The piston was the right size and 280ZX pads fit perfectly. I can make it work no problem, i just want to know what part is wrong because typically if you buy brake calipers and lines for the same model car they work with each other.

 

I didn't mean to drag this out but I hope the answer can help others down the road.

Capture+_2020-04-17-19-48-59.png

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Did you put a crush washer under the fitting that connects to the  caliper?   That may be all you need to do. See picture.

 

79- 81 280ZX

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodridge-USA-22070-G-STOP-SS-Braided-Brake-Line-Kit-Fits-79-81-280ZX/202871361712?fits=Model%3A280ZX|Make%3ADatsun&epid=1660785743&hash=item2f3c1350b0:g:1Z0AAOSwXk1eE0OZ

15869974724281507618920197346128.jpg.3f300d1b2821a4cfe0c3098235ec388d.jpg

Edited by Miles
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

My only guess is that the manufacturer is sharing tooling between similar brakes and disregarding the OE sealing method. I even measured the piston diameter to confirm they were the correct calipers. Who knows, but they work great now just something others should watch out for is buying aftermarket I suppose. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

when I got my car (an 83) I had to replace the read brake pads (and maybe disks too, not sure) and one the calipers was stuck. I got it rebuilt and got a new hose for it... 

 

I simply went to a hydraulic shop (where they make hydraulic hoses for hoes and tractors and what not) with my original hose, then guys matched the hose size and the fittings to some parts he had in stock and made me a new one.  

 

The only thing was that one of the threaded parts, I forget which, was a little too long, so I cut it to length with a saw, cleaned up the thread, and when I installed it, everything was tip top.  never leaked.  I don't remember if there was a crush washer, but knowing myself I would have tried reusing the original one (probably with a leak as a bonus), and I don't remember dealing with that, so probably there wasn't one.

 

cost me probably 10$, maybe?  

 

anyways, it's a viable solution if you can locate a shop like that.  

 

s

 

ps: as for crush washers, if they are not indented, you can heat them up and let them cool off slowly to anneal them, make them good as new.  of they are indented and you're cheap, you can possibly sand the surface until there is no indent and then anneal them.   

Edited by supernova_6969
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