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L28E-T Crank, No Start


TakemuraShuu

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Hello, I've just finished converting my NA L28e in my 1978 280z to turbo. I'm running stock Turbo Zx injectors with NA MAF and NA ECU. The car will crank for days never even sputters. Here's what I've checked:

 

- Checked ECU harness pinout for injectors, revolution trigger signal, and power circuit for voltage, all 12v+

 

- Fuel pump hums nicely with fpr reading roughly 36lbs

 

- All intercooler piping is snug, MAF sensor is in front of turbo

 

- Intake manifold bolted on snug

 

- Has spark

 

Any help would greatly appreciated, thank you for reading.

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1 hour ago, cgsheen said:

Yup, don't use Turbo injectors with a stock NA ECU. (unless you've figured a way to retune that ECU...)

 

2 hours ago, NewZed said:

 

Have you checked the spark plugs?  Might be flooding.  The turbo injectors are 265 CC, the NA are 188 CC.  You're dumping 40% more fuel in than the engine needs.

 

Ah **** I haven't checked, if they're flooded do you think I should swap to NA injectors or fork over the money for a Megasquirt. I'm just trying to run 7lbs of boost, nothing crazy.

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You are way behind the curve on this swap.  There is a ton of information about it on the site.  The NA EFI system is set up for NA injectors.  Turbo injectors will squirt too much fuel.  Good luck.  

 

https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/94-engine-components/

 

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

 

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

 

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

 

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Run through the typical NA EFI checks.  Could be a fusible link, or even a ground problem.  Voltage and grounds are the key.

 

Here's a reference from your past.  It ran before, so it should run again.  Good luck.  Try starting fluid if you just want to hear it for a short burst.  That will confirm spark and timing, then you can focus on the injector power and control.

 

 

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4 hours ago, NewZed said:

Run through the typical NA EFI checks.  Could be a fusible link, or even a ground problem.  Voltage and grounds are the key.

 

Here's a reference from your past.  It ran before, so it should run again.  Good luck.  Try starting fluid if you just want to hear it for a short burst.  That will confirm spark and timing, then you can focus on the injector power and control.

 

 

First, thank you so much for your assistance with my car problems haha.

 

Second, sprayed starter fluid in the Afm, and still no start. So the culprit should be air. The AFM is in front of the turbo as a factory L28ET would be mounted. I'll run tests per FSM and see if it's broken.

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20 hours ago, TakemuraShuu said:

Second, sprayed starter fluid in the Afm, and still no start. So the culprit should be air.

 

Squirt the fluid directly in to the intake manifold.  If the AFM vane is not opening the fluid won't get through.

 

You might just have a big vacuum leak somewhere.  Moving the AFM won't help that.  Edit - actually it might, but still...

 

Don't forget to look for rags or mice nests in the J-pipe if you got the parts from a car that has been sitting.

Edited by NewZed
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2 hours ago, NewZed said:

 

Squirt the fluid directly in to the intake manifold.  If the AFM vane is not opening the fluid won't get through.

 

You might just have a big vacuum leak somewhere.  Moving the AFM won't help that.  Edit - actually it might, but still...

 

Don't forget to look for rags or mice nests in the J-pipe if you got the parts from a car that has been sitting.

Again thank you for assisting me with this. I think you're right about the vacuum leak, and they're may be incorrect timing also. Car started for maybe half a second when I sprayed starter fluid near the 5th and 6th injectors leading to believe the leak is in that general area. 

 

I'll re-tighten the intake manifold bolts and see if there's any difference.

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Tightened the intake manifold, engine starts for a sec on starter fluid. I'ved narrowed it down to the injectors.

 

Per FSM, I checked the pinout for each injector on the ECU Harness and all have 12+ VDC. Checking the injector harnesses directly however yield a different outcome.

 

I'm unfamiliar with how to check the injector harness so I unplugged 3 harnesses and checked Ohms first by touching the left pin with one point and right with the other, all 3 that I tested gave same result of 0. When I checked VDC by hot point to a pin and ground point to a ground, each outcome was different for the 3. I've included two images showing what's up. I may have to just go Megasquirt if it gets too complicated haha

InShot_20201007_154327238.jpg

InShot_20201007_154158507.jpg

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