Jump to content
HybridZ

280z 1976 stalls after startup. Throttle body switch?


Recommended Posts

Might be that your ignition module is going bad.  When that happens extra sparks are created which also fire the injectors more often.  Usually that will show up on your tachometer as erratic needle movement, excess RPM or a quivering/jumping inactive needle.

 

Make sure that you marked the original position of the AFM vane, in case you find that the source is somewhere else.  The AFM should never really need adjustment on a stock engine.

Edited by NewZed
Link to post
Share on other sites

NewZed,

Indeed  did mark the original location on the AFM indeed. I agree, that adjusting it leaner would prob not provide the solution to the real issue.

I have 2 spare ECU's which I also tested, making no difference. Alo, I did not see any strange RPM needle movement. I did see some strange voltage movments i now recall.

 

Therefore now I am really focusing in the Ignition coil. What is your thought on the Ignition coil being bad, and with too high resistance and not dropping back.

 

I got that info from this video: 

 

Edited by Sjoost
Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, Sjoost said:

 

Then, while engine was running, I saw some discharge sparks from the Ignition coil center to the - terminal. Figured that could also have been the spark sound I heard earlier.

 

I kind of overlooked that.  You definitely do not want to see sparks anywhere in the engine bay.  The spark jumping to the negative terminal is definitely bad, it might be a sign of bad wires, or the center wire not completely seated in the coil.  So you need to fix your wires for sure, make sure the center wire is firmly seated in the coil and the distributor.  But you also need to check the rotor and the distributor cap also.  Spend some time making sure those parts are in good shape.  Even having your spark plug gap set too wide can cause the spark to jump to where it doesn't belong.  The spark will take the easiest path to ground.

 

One side effect though of the coil discharge jumping to the negative terminal is that it can damage your ignition module, since the negative terminal is connected to the module.  Something to be aware of.  But first, get some good wires, and tune-up parts and get the system to the point where the spark only passes through the spark plug wires.  You should never see or hear sparks in the engine bay.

Link to post
Share on other sites

NewZed,

 

I agree. Arcing to negative will kill my ECU. I checked the seating of the center wire in the coil, and really doubt it was seated correctly. I moved the isolation cap a bit further down the cable, to be able to protrude the wire connecter further into the coil. I did not start the engine after that.

I do have the impression, that the arcing was due to that and could have been solved now by setting the wire in better. 

 

Still, I am doubting the condition of my coil. The resistance & Richness of fuel mixture.

image.png.3ec1828eb265481fdc978435545591cd.png

From EE-34:

image.png.1cc4d87b7e0bfed0c5bfc1c1815edbd3.png

 

My combination is 1.3 (external resister) +1.8 (coil) = 3.1ohm which obviously is more than the 2 ohm, suggested to replace the ignition coil.

 

So I think I need a low ohm new ignition coil.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know how much modifying you want to do but here are a couple of links about replacing your ignition module and coil, and getting rid of the ballast resistor.  All of which will give you a stronger and more dependable spark.  These old ignition modules are dying at a regular rate after 40 + years, and the ballast resistors go bad also.

 

It's easy to do and easily reversed if you need to.  And pretty cheap.

 

One of the guys is from your area of the world.

 

https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/replacing-the-280z-tiu-with-an-hei-module-r67/

 

https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/25507-sscanf/

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

NewZed,

 

Question,

will a HEI module also work with the stock point contacts in the distributer?

 

What startup resistance, and running resistance would it need for a coil with the HEI installed, with point distributer?

I have purchased a low resistance Flame thrower II (0.6 ohm) which firstly I was planning to replace just the current 1,8 ohm coil. This to see if my issue is solved.

If that does not give improvement, I will put in the HEI module (pertronix d2000) and replace the stock ignition module. As I understand, the external resister can then be bypassed, but will the coil not need to be with a higher resistance than 0.6ohm (I could put in my 1.8 Ohm old one)? 

 

Hope you could advise me here.

 

Thx, Joost

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

1976 should not have points, it should have a magnetic pickup system.  The GM HEI module is designed for that type of system that's why it works well in the Nissan application.

 

The 0.6 ohm Flame Thrower should work well with the HEI module.

 

Yours might have one or two pickups but you can only use one if you convert to the HEI module.  The second pickup is for emissions purposes, it's not a big deal to swatch to one.

image.png.71a4c63d1333646cbacabf7441679b14.png

Edited by NewZed
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow that gives me a lot of clarity. I did find out from the FSM that the cali model has one pickup point and the non cali, 2. Also the wiring is bit different (3 wires). 

For sure now I know that when my coil comes in, I will try that first. Then upgrade the HEI and see what that does. I will leave the distributer as it is for now.

 

Today I rechecked all the sensors on the thermostat housing, and found my thermostat itself bit worn out. Not sure if that was functioning as should, but it did open eventually when I put a heat gun on it. I will replace it anyway. I also still have a faulty temp gauge which I can't solve. I checked the gauge sender, the Temperature sensor, all with resistance values as should be expected. Measured at 5degC, 15degC, 20degC ,50 degC and 85degC. So sensors are fine. When I ground the gauge wire at the sender, the gauge also climbs up to max on the gauge in the dashboard. So I was wondering if it could be that those sensors are not getting any warmed up fluids? Still eventually all should warm up from the engine I should suspect. Coolant level was covering the sensors. Maybe the Thermostat would remain closed? Or could it be the water pump? Feels like I am running from one thing into the other, but that is probably how things need to get solved (and I get to know the car better).

 

Another thing I found and which I need to check. The fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is spot on when (starter lead wire disconnected) fuel pump is running 2.5-2.6 bar. When the engine runs, it drops too much I feel (to 2 bar). Since all sparkplugs show rich mix, could it be the Fuel Regulator is faulty and fuel is sucked in to the intake manifold via the vacuum line, which brings it to all cylinders?

I will check if the vacuum line is dry. If not, I suspect the regulator as well. I was trying to find one, but they are hard to find (3way with a vacuum line). Is there any known alternative that would work?

 

Well, lots of checking to be done again.

 

Thx for your continues replies NewZed. It really help me in my quest to solving this issue :-)

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...