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HybridZ

Joe's 1972 240Z adventure


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9-20-2021. I managed to get the rear spoiler on today. Also cleaned up and prepped the rear hatch inside and the hatch frame. Took a lot longer than I anticipated, but it's clean now, a bit of sanding and painting in a coupe spots then move on to the doors and door frames. 🙂

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I notice you have mounted the rear spoiler nice and tight to the hatch, that means you will get some vibration rubbing on the rear quarter panels where the spoiler over hangs. The way to prevent any scratches before they start is covering the area with a small piece of the 3M clear film. I only discovered that after the scratches had happened on mine.

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9-27-2021. More work on the 240Z today. (NOTE: I don't own a welder, and rust repair to structural areas will be done the old fashioned way with a MIG welder) I tackled the trunk floor. Here are some pics. Cut the rust out, decided to put the sheet metal cut out a tad bigger than the holes, and used Tek screws to hold it down, then went around the edges with JB weld to bond it down. I also used All Metal filler and then used it in smaller places where I had ground out the rust holes to good metal again. In the pics it looks sloppy, but once dry, I will use the Dremel grinder and sander to smooth it up and make it look great. The Tek screw can be removed tomorrow after it is fully cured, or I can leave them in. If I take them out, I can just quickly fill the holes with All Metal. I also redid the holes around the gas door. I cut and fitted some sheet metal behind the holes and bonded it down with JB weld to the factory sheet metal on the inside. I used Duct tape to hold it tight while it cures. To get to the spot, I had to removed that big evaporator gas fumes tank. The spare tire well looked much worse than it was.....I went ahead and wire wheeled it and then ran my orbital sander with 60 grit over it.....then the die grinder. I ended up with 4-5 small little holes. I opened each up a tad with the Dremel stone attachment and filled with all metal filler. then I realized the rest of the surface had a lot of dimples....good metal, but thin. I applied some all metal with my finger in a real thin coating, and once cured can be sanded and look great. Here's are some pics to go with coffee.

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Edited by A to Z
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Sure, no problem.  What I did was I bought a stack of 1000 grit and now 2000 grit paper that fits on my 5 inch orbital sander, hook and loop.  When I polish, I lay down a small soft towel, and put the orbital on it, then put some Turtle Wax polishing compound on it and run that towel over it.  It really makes it pop!  the orbital will do it!

 

50PCS 400-2000 Grit 5 in Wet Dry Sanding Disc 8-Hole Orbital Sandpaper Discs | eBay

 

this link above, it has a drop down where you select the grit of paper you want.  2000 is what really makes it shine!

 

Click below for a quick video

 

 

 

8-21-2021 video 2.MOV

Edited by A to Z
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9-30-2021. I got the trunk finished up, except for the towers need to be painted. The SEM paint is enroute. The taillight surrounds.....well I painted them with a satin black, but it still looks glossy. Not good enough. I will have to lightly sand, possibly filler primer and re-shoot. 🙂

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10-4-2021. Productive day on the Z car today. Pulled the passenger door, pulled the seat, floormat remnants, and cleaned and cleaned it. Mice???  3 rust spots I had to repair. Removing the door seal was a dirty crumbly experience. A little painting on the floor to cover some bare spots, and then I concentrated on the door sill and door jam. This was a chance to try out the new clear coat I got from Amazon. 2 part clear, you push the bottom button to release an activator into the clear, I assume it is the catalyst, as it is 100 times better than the ExpressPaint non catalyst clear. VERY glossy shine. After I got the door latch cleaned up, I remounted it and gave it a coat of clear too! I love the look it gave it. As you can see from the pics, I masked and painted the inner door areas. Oh, and the spare tire. Never used original spare. But VERY rusty on the inside. So, I wire wheeled it out, and got the whole deal painted up and ready to go back in it's hole. Also painted up the carpet retention clips, and took a pic of the rust on the sill cover piece.  Here are some pics to go with your coffee. 

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This is the new clear I used.  I love this stuff.....but at 20 bucks a can......and once it is activated it is only good for I think 36 hours max, you have to be ready to go with a lot of work when you go to use it!

 

SPRAY MAX 2K Gloss Clear....****DO NOT USE THIS!!! IT HAS ISOCYANATES IT IN, IT IS VERY POISIOUS, IF YOU BREATHE IT, IT CAN KILL YOU. **** I used it today and it screwed me up a tad even just a hour maybe 2 with a mask on (dental mask). VERY bad stuff. Please read and heed.

Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (4 PACK) : Automotive

Edited by A to Z
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10-6-2021. Continued work on the floor and door jambs, doors, etc. Did rust repair on the passenger floor under the seat, cleaned and polished up the passenger side door sill, clear coated it and moved on to the driver's side. I got the door and seat pulled.....more mice residue. I got started on the floor, but it started getting dark, so I cleaned it up and now I will have a head start next time. tight single car garage.  Here are some more pics:

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