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Joe's 1972 240Z adventure


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Do you Remember that dad had those Z beams (Cibie Z-Beam) in the 280z?  They were awesome looking.  They had very flat glass.  It made it obvious they were an upgrade, but they were not jarring to see.  Plus they performed. 

 

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/general-discussion-aa/15499-remember-the-cibie-z-beam

Edited by YoBrother
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On 8/4/2022 at 9:20 PM, YoBrother said:

Do you Remember that dad had those Z beams (Cibie Z-Beam) in the 280z?  They were awesome looking.  They had very flat glass.  It made it obvious they were an upgrade, but they were not jarring to see.  Plus they performed. 

 

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/general-discussion-aa/15499-remember-the-cibie-z-beam

Yep, Pretty cool..

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I remember them well.  they really worked well.

 

I will surely post up pics once she is out and about!  

 

Yesterday I started the project of installing brass ball valves on each heater hose.  Then I started on my electrical issue......turn key nothing....put screwdriver across battery, starter spins but doesn't engage....hmmm.  I also had time to wash down the entire engine compartment, which was full of dust from doing bodywork and paint.  I took some pics and there are some videos of all the fun I had today.  I will post them below. :)

 

To see videos go to link below this, click through the pages, the last 4 are videos.  This site doesn't like uploading my stuff. :) 

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I spent the day in the garage on the Z car. I started with trying to get her started.....I went thrugh and repaired some connections that didn't hold, and then tried something I read online. I bypassed the power wire to the solenoid, by taking a wire and tying it to the solenoid lead and then touching the other end to the postitive wire....engine started turning over......so it appears either the ignition relay in the passenger footwell is bad, hence I never heard it click, or the wire going to the ignition or the ignition switch itself is bad. So I will do some research, but as of now, worst casae, I can just wire in a hidden pushbutton momentary switch, and use it to start the car. Ok, so then the car tuend over but didn't want to start, so I looked the fuel filter, no fuel.....so I poured a gallon of fuel in and tried again.....no dice. So, the "new" mechanical fuel pump I put on there a year ago is already toast. I bought one of the NOS ones a guy is selling on here, and I will put that on here. The NOS stocker is perfect for my stock L24 setup, and being an NOS piece, it will last probably 40 years, or in other words until I am gone. So, I then took some time and used an old toothbrush and some brasso, and scrubbed on my intake manifold to try to get it to brighten up......it did a little, but it was a mistake, in that I will have to power wash the area to get the layer of dried brasso compeltely off. I got most off with a soapy busket of water and a soapy toothbrush. Lastly, I pulled the valvecover and got started on it's facelift. I found small nicks and scratches in the top where the stripes and leters are, and so with a bastard file, I flat filed them clean. Then I used a combination of steel wool, some 220 dry sandpaper and some wet 2000 on the letters to get it ready for paint. I then masked off the letters and the breather arm, wiped it down good with some denatured alcohol and painted it engine block silver. It's a Duplicolor paint. I had to do A LOT of very light coats to get it right. So, now it is in the garage curing before I remove the tape off the letters and then hand polish the letters with my can of Mothers mag wheel polish and a clean rag. Also of note, when the valvecover came off everything was so clean and nice, no wear at all.....another bit of evidence backing up the car's 50K original miles. Pics and a video to follow.

 

Ok, my videos don't like to load here, click on the link below to get to it.  Flip through the pics and the video will be at the end. :)

 

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Valve cover looks super.  I like the idea of an NOS fuel pump, replace it once and be done. I worry with the heater shut offs that a necessary circulation of hot water is not going on. Will you need a cross over to bypass the heater and keep the water circulating??  Just asking.. 

 

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I was wondering the same thing about the water flow.  I have seen on some YouTube channels where people had to make sure that water flowed or it caused disruption which cause the water to not flow through the radiator.  Do they have a water bypass normally when the heater core is turned off using the switches on the dash?  If it does not normally bypass, then I am thinking this will not be an issue.  But if it starts to over heat then this is a good place too look. 

 

Otherwise, great progress.  This is the fun stuff after all of that tedious body work. 

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Thanks!   As for the flow issue, look at the pic below.  Where the line goes to the water heater, there is a factory valve that stops the flow.  My valves are right before and right after that valve, so it shouldn't be an issue, as the flow was designed to be stopped.

blue72_cooling_diagram_70-74.jpg.4a26ac8b3fd47b8b22abc645c83396b9.jpg

Edited by A to Z
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