A to Z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 3-17-2023 UPDATE: I went ahead and painted the timing cover silver and then top coated it with clear...then worked on the head some more. I finally managed to get the valves out. They measured a 1 5/8 (42mm) on the intake and 1 3/8 (35mm) on the exhaust. Weird. So, It doesn't have 280Z intake valves....the story I was told onthis head when I bought it gets stranger and stranger. The exhaust valves ARE bigger than stock though. Well, you can see the porting done in person. I went ahead and decided to just get all new valves and and inner springs, to go with the new outer srings I had, and new keeper and retainers as well. I kept the rockers and lashpads etc. in the exact same order, so the cam will have the surfaces it is already used to. pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 03-23-2023 UPDATE: Today I picked up some items I had sent for powdercoating. Intakes in Bronze, Gloss black on the Carb heat shield, metal fuel lines, Air cleaner (both pieces) and brackets for the fuel lines. Oh, and the grill in Gloss Black. Now awaiting my SU carb tops and the balancing tube at the polishers. PICS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) 03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my finger over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far as possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics Edited March 26 by A to Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted Monday at 07:21 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 07:21 PM 03-27-2023 UPDATE. Well, I got my Engine parts back from J&S Polishing today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57GMC Posted Tuesday at 05:33 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 05:33 PM Wow, lots of work there Joe.. Really impressive on all the cleaning, polishing and attention to detail.. Can't wait to hear it running.. Thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted 13 hours ago Author Share Posted 13 hours ago Thanks. I hope she is back up soon as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted 13 hours ago Author Share Posted 13 hours ago 03-31-2023 UPDATE; Engine Assembly. Today I had a 13 hour marathon to get the engine together. I ran out of some parts I thought I had, so I ordered them, but it is almost complwetely together. Ran out of head bolts (the short ones) , and can't find my engine oil pickup, so I had to buy another one on eBay, and my rear main, the side seals that you push down in on the sides to get a tight seal. Some places sell just the seals, others sell the seals and the metal strips that go beside them in there. I don't know if you need the metal strips or not, so I went ahead and got the metal strips along with the side seals. I had put RTV selalant in the grooves a bit and along the cap bottom edge like the manual says....so when I put these strips in there, the RTV will already be hard. I had some issues.....just part of the game I suppose.. Pic heavy, enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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