NCchris Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 Replacing rear wheel bearings along with a turbo cv halfshaft and companion flange upgrade. When torquing the axle nut, the axle binds up way before the 200# torque is even close. Too tight! I searched and found this thread: My housing is stamped "B" and I have 4 spacers all marked "B", so that part is OK. Now for my problem, all 4 spacers are mushroomed and short by .003-.004. Is there a source to purchase these? Would shimming be a suitable repair? Thanks in advance for any reply. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 Check the seal. If you don't drive it all the way in the lip on the seal hits the axle. Other than that shouldn't be much to it. If you had to make a new spacer the thing to do would be to test fit without the seal until you get the right endplay (almost none, but there is a spec for it) then install the seal and torque the shit out of it. Also there is a bit about torquing until you get the right amount of drag, but they're ball bearings, so the drag really shouldn't change with the torque. I always red loctite and then put the impact on 5 and give it lots of ugga duggas and have never had any trouble. I think the FSM is just wrong on that torque to drag thing. Doesn't make any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Thanks Jon, no, the torque drag thing makes no sense to me either. Endplay spec. is 0 to .0059! I made a tool to use a beam style torque wrench to measure rotational torque. Spec. is 3.9 in-lb. I was getting 25+ before torquing. My spacers are short by .003-.004. I think that is my problem. Guess I'll have to make some. Thanks! Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 Shim stock that is .004" is super easy to cut. I made shims for my LSD and cut them with scissors. You might consider buying a piece of shim stock and cutting a shim out if the alternative is paying a machinist to turn a new spacer on a lathe. Once it's in there the shim is not going to move, and when you're torquing the nut you can prevent the stub axle from spinning, so you won't screw up the shim while tightening. Looks like $11.30 from mcmaster.com: https://www.mcmaster.com/9011K815 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted September 24, 2022 Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 Jon, FYI, I usually do things the hard way 🤯 I welded up one end of both spacers, took them to my friend's shop, turned excess off ID and OD, faced to +.005. Surface ground to length. Came home and re-assembled both assemblies. Problem solved. Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 You mean the right way. Nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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