A to Z Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 a few changes....such as? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 (edited) 04-11-2023 UPDATE: Ok, So I went ahead and took the engine off the stand and put it on an old tire with some blankets to protect the oil pan, and then installed the engine plate, and my new Exedy 240mm flywheel and OEM grade 2+2 clutch kit. I used the Automatic Trans to Manual Trans adapter kit from Godzilla Raceworks, and as you can see from the pics, I tried the wrench with bolts idea to hold the engine still and torqued the bolts down to 110 ft lbs. with blue locktite on the Nissan bolts. I then grabbed the transmission and installed the shift fork rubber boot and the shift fork and throwout bearing which was all part of the Godzilla conversion kit. I went ahead and put wheel bearing grease on the shaft, inside the sleeve and wear points, and then it was time to get the trans on. It took a bit of wiggling and getting it on about halfway, putting a long bolt in to help hold the weight, and then grab the tailshaft and rock it up and down, and the splines finally lined up completely and on it went. I installed the 4 bolts to hold it on and then it was time for a bit of beautification. I put the rear block side plug in and cleared it, and then I used my wire wheel attachment again in my electric drill and cleaned up the portion of the transmission case that is seen from the engine compartment once installed, and then sprayed it with gloss clear engine block paint. Pics ! Edited April 12, 2023 by A to Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted April 14, 2023 Author Share Posted April 14, 2023 04-13-2023 UPDATE: I pulled the trans back off and wiped off the excess grease and fixed the clutch fork dust cover, then installed the engine. 2 nearby guys came over and helped…It wouldn’t have gone in without their help. It fought us every step of the way, it was incredible how hard it was….also found out things like the motor mounts are different from one side to the next…BUT, it is in! Car sunk down about3-4 inches with it in. At least it seems that way. Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted May 21, 2023 Author Share Posted May 21, 2023 Valvecover info! This is from BSPEED in New Zealand. Custom done they way I wanted it. I didn't know until it arroved it has a gasket O ring style already in the vavlecover! One thing to note. The port for the breather or vent hose conflicts with the factory fuel lines. I pulled mine down some to clear the fitting and hose and will finish bending them around the brass fitting once I get it. The oil fill cap comes with it and is a nice piece, and it came with hex head bolts. Here are some pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 (edited) A few changes. I got rid of the mechanical fuel pump, and got a real nice black Z monogrammed cover plate, and went with a CARTER electric fuel pump mounted in the rear. The Mallory distributor was being very problematic ( 2 Mallory dizzys both blew the modules, so no more Mallory) so I switched to a eBay breakerless ignition, and I have gotten it running, and I installed an AEM UEGO A/F gauge to help with getting the tune better, but she definitely like fuel more than she did when she was stock! I then decided to go ahead and jump on the fuel rail project. I cut the hard lines next to the firewall and started putting the rail together. I put off the piece from the old rail, the return line, that is necked down to a very small orifice to keep the fuel pressure correct....well I cut that off, cleaned it up, and added it to the return line I have for the rail. Rail is made by Pallnet, available through Godzilla Raceworks, this one is made for SU's. My rail is set up so that the feed and return lines will be at the back of the engine to give everything a real clean look. A piece of the old rail on the front of the head is still in place holding the sprak plug wires until I figure out a good way to tackle that job. She runs great, but won't ahve any real powre figures for awhile, as I need to get the fuel spot on. Currently at 8 degrees advance with vacuum advance plugged off. Too much compression for it. Edited September 4, 2023 by A to Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 (edited) 3-30-2024 UPDATE: I ended up replacing the factory NOS oil pump, as it was failing with a Kameari Oil pump. Nice unit, but the idling oil pressure was 90 psi! So, I ended up getting the adjustable oil pressure nut setup from DP Performance.....problem is, 90 Psi was at the lowest adjustment....So I took it apart and with my die grinder ground off the "tit" inside and then also put a washer between the nut and the housing witch has the effect of making the nut farther away when tightened. Oil pressure dropped to 45 at idle. So, it worked! I also found out, that on initial startup the detonation was from degraded fuel not too hot of a spark plug. I am currently using the standard heat range plug....NGK BPR6ES. Gapped at .031~.032 it works great, really woke the engine up! Timing is 20 degrees at idle, 91 octane fuel at this altitude which burns like 93 at sea level, 11.54 to 1 compression, no pinging! SU's are one click from 2 1/2 turns down......Very strong, and the stroker works well with the stock "A" cam grind on the streets. Nice power and the 4:11 rear makes it even more so. Mid range is a lot more than you would expect for an L6. Next post eventually will be a DYNO test result to close out this thread. Anyone contemplating building one, feel free to drop me a note. Cheers! Edited March 31 by A to Z Jesus Is Lord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Who told you to do 20 degrees at idle? What is all in timing? Like 7k rpms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 On 4/2/2024 at 3:51 PM, DuffyMahoney said: Who told you to do 20 degrees at idle? What is all in timing? Like 7k rpms? That’s what I run , 18-20 degrees . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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