HusseinHolland Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 Hello! Apologies up front if this is the wrong place to start posting for info. Have a 1975 Datsun 280Z on it's way to me. 250K on original drivetrain. I will be getting the car to stage zero first, then I want to upgrade the drivetrain. When I did a online search RB2x's seem to be a common go to - however, all the links I see (in the RB subforum) are at least 10 years old, so I'm unclear on what is currently preferred. I do know from searching online that the RB25DET is a pretty expensive (and not common) drivetrain to acquire, never mind that they are all around 20+ years old. Is there a newer Nissan (manual) drivetrain that ppl are using? I haven't found any info on that. It could be also my unfamiliarity with Nissan Chassis/drivetrain nomenclature. I have done drivetrain conversions, so I am familiar with the need for custom parts & fabrication (I put a JDM Honda drivetrain in my 80's Fiat X1/9). Any insight or links would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 RBs and LS engines are the most common swaps, but some people use Nissan VQs as well. Apex Engineered offers a front subframe with mounts for your choice of L, JZ, LS, RB, and VQ engines. The VQ would let you put a CD00A behind it if you wanted a brand new trans. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Crossmember.html If you want to stay with an L-series, Datsun works (sold through Godzilla Raceworks) offers kits to put either a CD00A or TL70 (BR-Z trans) behind them. Both brand new, more modern options. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 LS is the easy button, and the aluminum ones are about 40 lbs heavier than the L series. Transmissions are heavier, but it's not as bad as most people think. If you're determined to keep it Nissan I'd go VQ. Requires major hackage of the front crossmember, to the point where I'd just ditch it and make one from scratch, or cut the center section out and fab the center section back in after getting the engine in place with one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html. I wanted my LS as tight to the firewall as I could get so used one of those tools and it was really easy to work on the mounts with the engine supported from up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 2, 2023 Author Share Posted March 2, 2023 Many thanks for the input. Those crossmembers look very nice. I'd rather keep it Nissan if possible. I've already got an LS swap underway into my 91 Volvo I made into a pickup. I don't want to do that to the Z. I think I'd rather use the straight 6 (RB25) than a V6, but the price difference is pretty steep. I need to figure out how speed signals, etc., are worked out for the given EMS - I also don't want to use standalone. So VQ ?? is the Nissan V6 line? Any particular iterations that are better to consider than others? I'll start looking in the forum on here & YT for swap videos. Thanks again for responding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malus_rex Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 You haven't mentioned your power goals. Another RB to consider is the RB20DET. It's still not cheap but it's generally about a grand or more cheaper than the RB25, plus it doesn't require a custom oil pan like the RB25 does, saving even more on the swap cost. It doesn't have the power potential of the VQ but if you're not looking to make 400+ hp it's an option to stay with an inline 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AydinZ71 Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 Another swap that I personally like is the K24 Honda. Yes it looks kind of silly in that big engine bay, but you will be putting the engine weight behind the front axle. Not sure if that officially constitutes a "mid" engine, but that a huge plus for road racing, autox, etc. You will also be shedding well-over 100lbs of engine weight compared to the L6 with nearly double the power (in NA form!). If you just want a street car, and plan to drive it more like a grand tourer then id go with the 6 or LS. If you want a small, light, great handling Z with more power than you would expect from a 4-banger, K24 might be for you. Only other negative I can think of is.... well... it sounds like a honda. Like all Honda's, they kinda sound like lawnmowers IMHO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 Electric? It's the future. https://fortune.com/2022/12/25/convert-vintage-classic-muscle-cars-into-electric-vehicles-ev/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 2, 2023 Author Share Posted March 2, 2023 (edited) On 3/1/2023 at 9:24 PM, malus_rex said: You haven't mentioned your power goals. Another RB to consider is the RB20DET. It's still not cheap but it's generally about a grand or more cheaper than the RB25, plus it doesn't require a custom oil pan like the RB25 does, saving even more on the swap cost. It doesn't have the power potential of the VQ but if you're not looking to make 400+ hp it's an option to stay with an inline 6. Apologies - I forgot to say I am only looking for basically the factory output of the replacement drivetrain, so assuming RB25DET, around 280-300BHP. Doesn't seem worth spending around 10K on parts for less than 100HP increase over stock (LOL). All the RB25DET drivetrains at JDM outlets in my region NY/NJ seem to be around 8K. I'm unclear on whether it's better to consider the Neo or Non-Neo. Searching, it appears at face value the Neo has advantages spec-wise, however given these are all 20 years old, I have no idea if that is true of a well used drivetrain. RB20 is not enough less to warrant using it, based on all the remarks I've read regarding the improvements with the RB25DET engine & associated trans. What I can't find is a decent checklist of what is required - physical fitment parts list, driveshaft mod(?), EMS related - speed signal, etc. The threads in the RB forum are mostly 20 years old. Again, I may be missing something. There are so many banner ads on this forum, it's distracting when trying to search. Edited March 3, 2023 by HusseinHolland minor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 18 hours ago, HusseinHolland said: I need to figure out how speed signals, etc., are worked out for the given EMS - I also don't want to use standalone If you buy an engine from one of the typical engine sources where are you going to get engine management? If you're planning to use factory stock EMS then the fact that the threads are over 20 years old doesn't really matter, right? It's the same stuff. p.s. I get very few ads on the forum. But I'm on a computer. Are you on a phone? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 2, 2023 Author Share Posted March 2, 2023 3 hours ago, NewZed said: If you buy an engine from one of the typical engine sources where are you going to get engine management? If you're planning to use factory stock EMS then the fact that the threads are over 20 years old doesn't really matter, right? It's the same stuff. p.s. I get very few ads on the forum. But I'm on a computer. Are you on a phone? Good luck. The JDM sources for drivetrain (not engine) include harness & EMS/PCM. The point is more that there is no consolidated or updated thread starting post. I'm in the habit of updating my starter posts to include a comprehensive parts list. I know I can also wade through the wiring thread in the RB forum. I'm on either laptop (Mac) or PC, either way, banner ads top & bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) On 3/1/2023 at 9:26 PM, AydinZ71 said: Another swap that I personally like is the K24 Honda. Yes it looks kind of silly in that big engine bay, but you will be putting the engine weight behind the front axle. Not sure if that officially constitutes a "mid" engine, but that a huge plus for road racing, autox, etc. You will also be shedding well-over 100lbs of engine weight compared to the L6 with nearly double the power (in NA form!). If you just want a street car, and plan to drive it more like a grand tourer then id go with the 6 or LS. If you want a small, light, great handling Z with more power than you would expect from a 4-banger, K24 might be for you. Only other negative I can think of is.... well... it sounds like a honda. Like all Honda's, they kinda sound like lawnmowers IMHO. Missed this. -I have a spare JDM K24A3, I put a JDM drivetrain in my mid engine fiat. I don't want a 4-banger in the Datsun though I'm also doing an LS drivetrain conversion on my Volvo Wagon I turned into a pickup last year ,so I don't want to do that to the Datsun Edited March 3, 2023 by HusseinHolland 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) To wrap this one up, I bought a 2006 350Z manual donor car back int he summer. I'll work on the conversion in a year or so, once I'm done with the V8 conversion Edited November 7, 2023 by HusseinHolland 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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