Jump to content
HybridZ

Other V8 conversions...


Guest Anonymous

Recommended Posts

Guest Anonymous

Since I didn't see another forum for this, I think I'll ask here (besides, you guys seem friendly enough icon_razz.gif). Think it would be possible to put the Mopar 528 Hemi Crate Engine in a Z? I know there would be some weight problems, and I know it probably wouldnt fit without alot of cutting, but how cool would that be?!?!?! (I figure Mopar is loved by both Chevy AND Ford heads icon_razz.gif)

It is my dream to one day own the fastest Z there is icon_smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These discussions invariably come down to some trite but true saying, like "Speed costs money; how fast do you want to go"?

 

Some experience with Chevy big blocks suggests that the Mopar Hemi (426-based) will indeed fit - but not with the stock sheet metal. With the right exhaust headers you can probably clear the stock frame rails. Plan on setting the engine so far back that the motor mounts anchor on the frame rails right about over the area where the tension/compression strut mounts currently sit. And you will probably need to relocate the brake vacuum booster to clear the driver's side valve cover. This basically means a custom firewall and a "pedal box" for the driver's feet.

 

I have seen 240Z-based cars where the engine was so far back that the windshield was notched for the distributor. That was a lexan windshield. As I recall, Hemis have front-mounted distributors, so at least your windshield could remain stock. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

I donno, I think a Hemi is much wider than a BBC. If you've seen a Hemi stuffed into a Dart (A body?) you might be a bit skeptical that it would fit in a Z. You'd have better luck with a older style 392 or 354 Hemi, they're narrower. The 426 is one wide motor.

 

If its really your desire to put a 426 in, then IMHO it might be better to cut the frame rails out altogether and put in rails front to back out of say 2x3 channel. Change the front end to Mustang II so you can ditch the front strut towers. Back half the car with a narrowed 9" Ford with tubs, custom dash and floor pan for more room and obviously a notched or set back firewall. Basically what your left with is the Z shell on a rectangular tube chassis. Tie it all together with a 10 point cage and hang on tight. icon_eek.gif

 

There maybe cheaper ways to do it, but honestly if your talking a crate hemi or 'aluminum' hemi then money obviously isn't an issue. Good luck with whatever you decide to use. icon_smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

No, no. I would LIKE to put a Hemi in my Z, but I can barely even afford a 4 dollar spark plug lol. I was just asking if you guys think it'd be possible for whenever I get rich icon_smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Ah, benchracing money! Yeah, sure its doable, The Hemi's been put into smaller cars than the Z before, it ain't cheap, but yeah I'd say its definitely possible with the right cash and lots of sweat, tears and work.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

I ran across a guy in FL that had a 413 max wedge in a Z at the dragstrip in Bradenton,however it was a full race setup meaning tube chassiss and so forth, Hell if you have enough money you can make anything fit. I myself want to see a Viper V10 in mine one day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Jeff Rimmer

Having a 440 Magnum in a 68 Dodge Dart myself, and knowing how much bigger and heavier the Hemi is, I would say that your looking at big bucks for mods, even after the $11,499.95 price tag for the crate engine from Summit!

 

I have yet to come across aluminum heads for a Hemi, focusing more on the 440.Mopar performance is a good place to look for aluminum parts. But even the aluminum heads for the 440 only shave off 40 pounds over stock iron heads.

 

The Dart was enough for me! I'm sticking with something easier like the 383 Chev swap for my 280Z!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Jeff Rimmer

But jsut to ad, I wanted to go Mopar with my 280Z initially. But finding a good 340 around here isn't as easy as a 350 block.

 

Personally I think the 340 is a screaming engine and would be a wicked engine or the Zcar. I have yet to hear of anyone who has completed this swap though. I believe it may be fdue to lack of transmission choices? Unless of course you want an automatic (727)...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest John Adkins

quote:

Originally posted by Jeff Rimmer:

But jsut to ad, I wanted to go Mopar with my 280Z initially. But finding a good 340 around here isn't as easy as a 350 block.

 

Personally I think the 340 is a screaming engine and would be a wicked engine or the Zcar. I have yet to hear of anyone who has completed this swap though. I believe it may be fdue to lack of transmission choices? Unless of course you want an automatic (727)...

 

Check out this link about a Jag V12 powered Z

http://www.ontariozcar.com/zedline/2001/mayjune01/mayjune07.htm

Read down down the page in the history of the car; it was originally a Mopar 318 swap, then a 340! So it has been done sucessfully. I think the reason not many have done the Mopar swap on this forum is because it is not documented like the Chevy or now the Ford is becoming. Plus, there aren't that many hard core Mopar fans here icon_sad.gif

 

I am starting soon on my Mopar small block swap; I'm starting with a 318 because I have a good running spare in my garage. I may go 360 in the future.

 

Transmission choices are not an issue; there are actually a lot to choose from : for automatics, there is the A904 (for chevy guys think TH 350)or A727 (chevy equivalent: TH400). Then there are the overdrive versions of these A500 or A518. On the manual side we have the super strong A833 4 speed which also comes in an overdrive version (.73 4th gear) and Viper T56 ($$$)

 

Listening to the guys on the board helped me decide to go with the A833 overdrive. These are strong, lightweight(with the aluminum case the A833 OD weighs 85 lbs.) and are fairly reasonable in price( I got mine for $200!)

 

[ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Jeff Rimmer

Congrats on starting the Mopar swap! I'm extremely happy to hear of someone doing the swap!

 

But you pointed out what I was trying to say exactly regardingthe transmissions. I prefer a manual transmission to suit the z-car. That's just my thing, and Mopar doesn't offer a wide range of manual trannies. They are for he most part 4-speeds, whereas with Chev, you can locate a 5-speed rather cheaply. I prefer to have the choice of 5 speeds or more. But again personaly preference.

 

Good luck with your swap!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest John Adkins

Oops forgot to mention the tremec kit for Mopars:

http://user.icx.net/~skeisler/Transmission/transmission.htm

Keisler5SPD.jpg

So there is a 5-speed available for mopars, also there are mopar specific versions of the Richmond 5 and 6 speed...

 

Another option is a new Lakewood bellhousing that allows use of GM bolt pattern manual trans on Mopar small blocks.

 

But why bother when the A833-OD is strong and gives you a .73 OD 4th gear and is available at about

10% of the cost of one of the new 5 speeds? Unless you just have to have a 5-speed icon_biggrin.gif I believe most people doing Chevy swaps use the T56 for the strength and overdrive gears. (5th and 6th gears are overdrive)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest John Adkins

The overdrive A833's ratios are similar to the GM 700R4, while the non OD A833 is close to Chevy t56 ratios (but with no overdrive):

 

A833 OD: first; 3.09, second; 1.67, third; 1.00, fourth; .73

 

A833 : first; 2.66, second; 1.91, third; 1.39, fourth; 1.00

 

Chevy t56: first; 2.66, second; 1.78, third; 1.30, fourth; 1.00, fifth; 0.74, sixth; 0.50

 

Chevy t5: first; 2.95, second; 1.94, third; 1.34, fourth; 1.00, fifth; 0.74

 

700R4: First; 3.06, Second; 1.62, Third; 1.00, Fourth; 0.70

 

Yes there is a big drop between first and second gears on the A833 OD, but for a savings of over $2000 over the tremec conversion I can live with it icon_biggrin.gif

 

[ August 10, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Jeff Rimmer

Well true there are aftermarket kits to obtain a 5-speed, but who wants to spend 2899 on a 5-speed?

 

What is the gearing on a 4 speed Mopar manual? Are the transitions from gear to gear larger than say a T-5? I would imagine they are. I guess it would depend on how you want to build your car. I'm building mine to be a good road racer. I plan to focus primarily on suspension and chassis. A 4-speed just doesn't seem to fit the road racer type of image. "Image" ... there it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

hey... thats the tranny i was telling you guys about a while back (3-5 months). yeah, its on the spendy side but that thing can handle a hopped up hemi's output with out even breaking a sweat! can you say bullet proof if i put it on a small block.

 

oh yeah before i forget, john adkins whats your Email address?? were are going to have to compare notes on the swap. i have a 318 block out of a 79 dodge pickup. i plan on running:

 

bored .040 over

 

forged stroker crank with forged alum. pistons and forged alum. rods

 

main stud girdle

 

windage tray,baffled pan, crank scaper

 

W5 heads port matched to a m1 singleplane intake (throttle body on it instead of carb), drilled and bunged for fuel injection

 

custom grind from comp cams with rhoads variable lifters, gear drive, and alum. roller rockers.

 

and after all that if i can afford it a distibutorless direct igntion kit from electromotive (tecII)

 

oh and dont forget the 150-200 shot of nitrous icon_biggrin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest John Adkins

Wow, sounds like you are going all out the motor. Personally, my plans are get the swap details sorted out with a fairly stock engine, then start adding HP. I'm using a 318 because I have one and I have some other specific plans , but if you are starting from scratch , how about starting with a 360? Forged pistons for a 360 are about $200 a set less than for a 318, plus you get 42 cubic inches more without a stroker kit (and 10 cubic inches over a Chevy 350 with a 25 lb weight savings icon_biggrin.gif ) my email is joadkins@pacbell.net

 

[ August 11, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

i would go with a 360 if i could get ahold of one icon_sad.gificon_mad.gif i have scoured my town and have found only two 360s! one is almost brand new and will run me about 3500 (includes rad, performance igntion,headers, billet underdrive pulley kit,etc) and the other one is in a 8? cordoba in a junkyard. i would snatch the one in the junkyard up but the car it is in has no damage that i can see. so it makes me a little dubious as to wether i should get the motor or not.

 

i'm gonna run the 318 block for the main reason that i can get it for free icon_smile.gif and i know what is wrong with this motor. it threw a rod right out of the oil pan. icon_eek.gif it has a nice big hole in the pan but the block looks good. plus all i really need is a block since i'm doing all the stuff i've mentioned. when i put the forged bottom end in i can have the block bored out to the same size piston diam. as the 360 (they were all the same block so it shouldn't pose a problem) and get that nice drop in prices for the pistons icon_smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...