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Brute Speed Z Project!!

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Don't get me wrong, the 9 inch is a very good diff. If you got a good deal, buy it! Make sure this diff your looking at is the right length for your car with the wheels and tires on it.If it is, then the fun begins! You need to cut out the whole back floor with the stock frame. Then build a new frame to mount the diff and clear your tire combo. You need to make new tubs (wheel wells), and figure out how to mount the new suspension. Everything has to be level and straight!Lots of measuring! This is a simplified version. You may want a pro to do this if you have never done something like this. Hope this helps, and good luck!

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Wow, this thread grew quickly....


Anyway, let's first mention an obvious but important thing about the stock rear end - make sure it's an R200, not an R180. If you have a 70-74 240/260 or automatic 280, you're saddled with an R180 - but it's a bolt-in swap for the R200. I had to do it with my car parked next to the curb on the street (no garage, sadly).


Regarding costs of a 4-link and Ford 9" combo.... I was quoted $5000 for parts and labor, from a very competatively priced one-man shop. Basically, you have to "back half" the car. That means not only work on the body and subframe, but also on the rear axle (shortening the housing, custom axles, etc. - and maybe even custom brakes). On the other hand, getting parts for the Ford 9" vs. the Datsun unit is like getting parts for the Chevy SB vs. the L28; cheaper, stronger, far better selection.


Alternatively, you could retain the independent rear suspension and install either a Ford 9" center section with custom halfshafts, or use shortened Oldsmobile Toronado halfshafts, or even an Olds Toronado center section. This is not a common swap, but some chassis gurus (such as Herb Adams) claim that the Olds swap is cleaner and stronger than the Jag or Corvette. But I've never heard of it done to a Z.

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