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Average Turbo lifespan??


Guest bastaad525

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Guest bastaad525

I'm talking about the lifespan of the turbo unit itself, the stock garret T3. How many miles can you usually put on these? Not sure how many were on it when I got the motor but it had very little shaft play... my mechanic said it must have been rebuilt recently that even new units have that same amount of shaft play. I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic and the Mobil 1 oil filter (damn thing BETTER be a damn good filter it costs $12!!!) and I always let my car idle for at least a minute before shutting it off, more if I've been on it right before parking.

 

Also, how much does it usually cost to get one repaired when they go out? When ever this one does give up, would it be more economical to just upgrade to a hybrid at that time?

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From what I've read and experienced, anywhere from 80K-130K is the average lifespan. It all depends on driving style and how much you push the turbo. My turbo Auster Rtt back in Okinawa had the turbo last to the equivalent of 128K miles before showing signs of needing a rebuild. When I swapped out my T3 this past September, it had no shaft play or anything and it had 90K on it. I think it would be good to upgrade when you replace the turbo. Not too bad of a job as long the stupid downpipe isn't frozen on like mine was!

John 82ZXT

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I had an 84 limited edition 50th anniversary turbo 300zx.

 

I sold it with close to 290km's on it...turbo still pulled hard...turbo was still good after next owner blew up the engine after neglecting a repair on the car...(I know I took the old engine back for parts)

 

dumb fool!

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Guest bastaad525

So if I keep using synthetic, and do my oil changes regularly, and keep using a good filter, and keep idling the car down for a minute or so before shutting off... the turbo should just about last me the life of the engine... that's better news than I would have expected :)

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Got over 175k on my last turbo car ("86 Chrysler LeBaron GTS), yeah its been awhile since I ran a turbo, but I like 'em.

 

1)Do not shut down your engine down without allowing the turbo to spool down to idle speed.

2)Pull your ignition coil wire off and crank your engine to re-prime your oil system after draining for oil change. This sends oil around the system and turbo without pushing exhaust gas thru turbine side while its still dry.

3) run synthetic oil after initial break in on rebuild

4) as said in post before, keep the oil return line clean

 

I never rebuilt the turbo and there was still very little play when I sold it. I know it ran another 15k - 20k after I got rid of it but was wrecked then.

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  • 3 years later...
Guest jebjkey

Sorry about bumping this thread....I know it's from waaaay back when, but I found it while Googling for some info on the Auster RTT and got the link to this...funny enough--lifegrddude...I know the Auster you're talking about!! LOL! '86 red 4-dr...had j-plates, then y-plates...oh yeah! 'cuz it used to be mine!! hey little brother! Glad to know you had as much fun with that car as much as Jason and I did! I bet you loved having the fastest car in school....aren't you glad I passed it along? Were you able to take out for a spin on 58? :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's the oil drain that usually causes problems since you can't get oil to the turbo if it won't drain.

 

Stock setups have a 90 degree angle before the barb on the pan and this is where coked oil likes to hang out which eventually clogs it.

 

I had one with 200k miles and the original owner claimed it was getting noisy. I cleaned up the drain and checked the supply line, kept good oil in the car and made sure never to open the throttle much until the turbo had reached operating temperature.

 

It was still working at 300k miles when I gave the 84 slicktop to datsun dynamics.

 

I shoved bearings into and cleaned one that had lots of shaft play, put it on my 1984 maxima, and used the same driving technique when cold and it's still going strong 30k miles later.

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