Jersey Posted April 2, 2004 Share Posted April 2, 2004 I ran two 3/8", SS hardlines to feed coolant to the center section of a T3/T4. One feed, one return. The feed is coming off of the thermostat housing, actually below the thermostat. Is this ok? Any other suggestions of where to get the feed from if it's not? Also, not specific to turbo motors but, the 3/4" or so pipe coming out of the block that Y's off and acts as the crank breather, can i cut this back a bit, say to about 2" away from the block, or would it cause any problems? Just can't figure out why they have such a long pipe and then Y's off and necks down? Maybe so it doesn't get as affected by the exhaust housing as hose would? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted April 3, 2004 Share Posted April 3, 2004 I ran my cooling lines from the 1/2" NPT plug that's pretty much behind the turbo on the block, through the turbo, and into the thermostat housing. I don't know if you'll get much water flow through the turbo if you go from the thermostat housing and back into it. The coolant flows from bottom to top on the L series. So if you go from the block, into the turbo, then into the head, you should be getting max water flow through the turbo. I used a 1/2" NPT to a 3/8" NPT brass adapter and then used flexible stainless AN-8 lines with fire sleeves to run the water. Pretty much the only restriction was where I had to drop down to an AN-6 and 1/4" NPT into the thermostat housing. Hope this helps Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 what you want to do is run it from the thermostat housing, and back to the inlet fitting on the water pump (where the stock water bypass hose goes). Basically, if I recall the circuitry, it goes from the thermostat housing, to the throttle body, to the fast idle bypass line, (then to the turbo) and then across the front of the block to the water line that bypasses to the inlet of the water pump. It's already got the fitting, and is in the same fitting as the heater hose return. This ensures water flow, even after shutdown through thermal siphon---which is when you need it most. You can remove as many of the components as you like (the TB heater is usually removed) but the circuitry is already there, just gotta know how to hook it in, and all the piping is there. For mine, I went to Autozone, and asked if they would let me look through their moulded hose rack, and found some very nice moulded 3/8 heater hoses to go on top of the manifold from the parts I still had installed, and utilized factory fittings---so it looks factory. I used stubs from a Z31 turbo coolant lines to hook up to my stocker turbo W/C center section. This is also where I copied the turbo coolant lines' circuitry from, BTW! Digicam took a dump before I did this mod, so I don't even have a photo I could e-mail you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 8, 2004 Author Share Posted April 8, 2004 Thanks guys. Aaron, messed up on my feed and return in my first post. I should be fine though because i ran the 3/8" SS feed from where the lower radiator connects to the block and the 3/8" SS return to the thermostat housing port that enters just below the thermostat. It's actaully bypassing the entire motor so it should be little cooler. Tony, stripped everything i could off of it including TB heater. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 zcarsmakemyheadhurt is building me a T04B with a 300ZX water cooled center section for my 280Z with 83turbo motor. I was thinking, would it be feasible to T into the two heater core lines right where they go into the firewall and run them behind the motor over to the turbo? I would think those heater lines can move enough water for cooling the turbo bearing. Am I all wet here? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rreford Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 what you want to do is run it from the thermostat housing' date=' and back to the inlet fitting on the water pump (where the stock water bypass hose goes). Basically, if I recall the circuitry, it goes from the thermostat housing, to the throttle body, to the fast idle bypass line, (then to the turbo) and then across the front of the block to the water line that bypasses to the inlet of the water pump. It's already got the fitting, and is in the same fitting as the heater hose return.This ensures water flow, even after shutdown through thermal siphon---which is when you need it most. You can remove as many of the components as you like (the TB heater is usually removed) but the circuitry is already there, just gotta know how to hook it in, and all the piping is there. For mine, I went to Autozone, and asked if they would let me look through their moulded hose rack, and found some very nice moulded 3/8 heater hoses to go on top of the manifold from the parts I still had installed, and utilized factory fittings---so it looks factory. I used stubs from a Z31 turbo coolant lines to hook up to my stocker turbo W/C center section. This is also where I copied the turbo coolant lines' circuitry from, BTW! Digicam took a dump before I did this mod, so I don't even have a photo I could e-mail you! [/quote'] Tony, I'm in a similar position. Bought a 240z with turbo conversion. Has water jacket but no plumbing for it. I want to supply water and appreciate your post. Any pictures possible now? Thanks! Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 I'll add my configuation just for grins. Mine runs from the fitting coming out of the block before going into the heater core which I tapped for a 1/4" fitting. This goes into the turbo and out to the thermostat housing. If I had to do it again I think I would pull the fluid from the plug in the block and then in the thermostat housing after the turbo. I think that would make for a cleaner install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 Oh maaaaan! This thread comes up, and I got a nice Nikon camera now. Unfortunately that turbo took a dump, and another is on it now with no water cooled center section. When I reinstall a water cooled center section, I will post them to my cardomain site. That thing turned red hot, and I found brazing material around the turbine housing. HOT HOT HOT! (Don't EVEN ask---it was my own stupidity, but succife to say floorboarding it to show you can do 12psi launches using retarded timing is really really really hard on your turbo!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 I didn't look at the date on the post but, I thought hummm seems like I've read this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Sorry to revive such an old thread but I want to update my turbo by adding a water cooled center section. But I am not sure how to route the coolent lines. So if someone has any good pictures that would be great. HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 I think Tony D nailed it in his first post: Lower thermostat housing -> turbo -> water pump intake (lower radiator hose). This is what I plan to do. I believe there was also some discussion on this subject in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Rossman, thanks for the info. I will just have to see what size lines I can run and get some made to fit., maybe an 6AN if it will fit in the t-housing. Now I need to figure out some kind of a T fitting into the line running from the water pump to the heater core. We will see what I come up with during this winters rework time. So add it to my list of things to do!! HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Take at look at big phill's video about 4 minutes in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 I feed my turbo(s) off the heater hoses. Never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 I feed my turbo(s) off the heater hoses. Never had a problem. At the risk of being a 'me too', I have to say 'me too'. A tee in both heater hoses effectively makes the turbo run in parallel with the factor heater core. I've run my VG30 T3/T4 that way for about 100,000 km over 10 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I took stock Z31 banjo fittings and hardlines, bent them forward to fit under the intake manifold and ran hoses to plumb it in to the lines that run from the thermostat housing to the throttle body. Ran it for 50,000 miles and the car never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooler Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I have ran my liquid cooled turbo through the heater hoses for about 10 years, same turbo. The only thing you will need to buy is an H pipe adaptor so if your heater valve is off your coolant will still flow to the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Holy Necroposting Spooner Batman! Depending on your routing of the hoses on the heater circuit, you could effectively block a very nicely designed thermal siphon effect not running them the way I suggest. After shutdown, the routing I suggested has the hot turbo with cool water available at the pump inlet. The turbo heats that water hotter than engine heat, and it rises to the thermostat housing where it can discharge through the open thermostat into the radiator hose. Going heater hose to heater hose will give you no place for the heated water to RISE to without restriction, and it will also have to fight hydrostatic head of the water in the block to return. Thermal siphons are very delicate balances, and don't tolerate much before they stop. AFTER the shutdown is the most critical cooldown time, I'd err on the side of the system that gave me automatic circulation when the engine is OFF. That Nissan used this same routing is no coincidence. Their engineers do sometimes know what they are doing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nphocus Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Holy Necroposting Spooner Batman! Depending on your routing of the hoses on the heater circuit, you could effectively block a very nicely designed thermal siphon effect not running them the way I suggest. After shutdown, the routing I suggested has the hot turbo with cool water available at the pump inlet. The turbo heats that water hotter than engine heat, and it rises to the thermostat housing where it can discharge through the open thermostat into the radiator hose. Going heater hose to heater hose will give you no place for the heated water to RISE to without restriction, and it will also have to fight hydrostatic head of the water in the block to return. Thermal siphons are very delicate balances, and don't tolerate much before they stop. AFTER the shutdown is the most critical cooldown time, I'd err on the side of the system that gave me automatic circulation when the engine is OFF. That Nissan used this same routing is no coincidence. Their engineers do sometimes know what they are doing! Right On! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I will give this thread yet another bump for its useful information. When I got my turbo motor, the stock turbo on it was plumbed for water cooling, but there was little indication that the fittings were ever used. The line coming off of the coolant inlet was about 3" of hose mysteriously capped with a coarse thread bolt. Thermo housing only has two threaded holes left now with two NPT plugs blocking them. I had been curious as to if this was the proper way to plumb the turbo, and now I know. And knowledge is power. If I ever do that cylinder head cooling mod, that will mean I have used every single port on that thermo housing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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