How much did everyone spend on their V8 Conversion?

[1 tuff z]

mario, many questions and far more answers are archived here at hybridz. you'll find that collectively there's more brainpower, experience and know-how than any one person would ever need-all available through one little portal..."the search". i spent many hours searching, reading, re-reading, printing & absorbing as i began to formulate the plans for my swap and would strongly suggest the same to you. if, after using the fantastic search here you don't find what you're looking for-then post the question.

 

david

 

Ok I read alot of these and it sounds like noone is quite doin what I am lookin at doing. Question: Saying that I had a fab shop to take care of any weldind or fabricating' date=' and I already have a suitable mild carburated small block. What else [u']has[/u] to be done to make it driveable. Can I use the Z rear end in it, I know drive shaft will have to be replaced, but assuming Im only putting out about 300-340HP would it be safe to use the stock Z differential?? Would the stock radiator move enough water, how will going from F.I. 6 to a carb. V-8 affect the computer, Ect...

I dont want to use a whole lot of electranics on it. (elect. water pump, fuel pump, fans ect...) I wanna try to keep it as basic as possible. Switch panel and so forth. (also have someone to take care of switches and relays.) Im just wondering, All these corroded connectors and hoses are driveing me insane!!! I just want it gone.

 

thanks,

Mario

[Guest Mike]

working on and paying for parts on fast sports cars with 400 plus hp engines is alot like dateing and marrying a cute girl that KNOWS HOW cute she is......and REALLY KNOWS HOW to make YOU feel GOOD ' date='its going to cost way more than you thought going into the deal but you just don,t care after the feeling the resulting completed project gives you when its running right.

or as a guy once said "boy I wish I had all that money back I wasted on cars and women......SO THAT NOW THAT I KNOW [b']WHAT CARS AND WOMEN TO WASTE MONEY ON I COULD DO IT WITH BETTER RESULTS THE SECOND TIME!"[/b]

 

This is pretty good advice from a guy who's obviously been around the block a time or two

 

What fool said "Money can't buy happiness"? Well, maybe not. But girls and cars are both hotter, the more $$$ you have to spend

 

Live-and-learn... learn-and-live...

[EvilC]

ok guys' date=' went to the dyno and don't anticipate any other extra costs at this point so i can consider that my swap is about complete. before any naysayers get busy picking apart my list below keep this in mind. i have NOT included any of my own labor [probably in excess of $6k if i had to shell it out'] and was fortunate/lucky/blessed that i was able to sell off other parts-both from my donor car and the supercharged L28 i pulled from my z. so, with that disclaimer written, here i now drop my financial pants for the hybridz world to see! also, as i've said before-i would have NEVER would have been able to do this without my hybridz.org!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU ALL!!

 

Item description expense

hp ls1/ls6 book [41] & slp 160 thermostat [55] -96

custom driveshaft [camaro & z ds's], camaro driveshaft, kirbin shifter [160] -273

clutch from new era [55], tilton clutch mstr [67], surface stock flywheel [22] -149

fluids-oil, antifreeze, trans fluid, brake fluid, oil filter -60

sanderson 1.75" headers [370, swain thermal barrier coat 175], gaskets [15] -560

john's cars eng & xmsn mounts -430

cruise control! -200

port/polish throttle body [75], spark plugs & wires [75]-new era -150

fuel press reg [162], fpr gauge [15], walbro pump [154] -316

exhaust components [545] tubing, welding/fab [470] -1015

fab pcm bkt, weld an fittings to tank, weld an fitting to clutch slave -120

wizard cooling custom radiator, fan brackets, upper hard hose, catch can [25] -475

autometer pro comp gauges $495, $100 adapt to dash & fitting adaptors -630

speartech harness [777], wiring gauges/harness & turn sig/hi bm pod [405] -1022

ls1 eng, pcm, t56 trans & rad fans [excluding my labor of love to strip donor] -144

intake components-elbows, filter, etc-jtr & new era parts, lokar dipstick [50] -225

engine bay paint/brake booster, pwderct gas tank & trans crossmember [150] -155

flaring tool, wilwood prop valve, brake line & tee, more adaptors & flex line -321

an fittings, adaptors, ss line, etc-for brake line relocation -73

fuel line & fittings, fuel filter, stainless teflon line, clutch line -493

dyno / computer tuning 6.8.06 -200

 

supercharger, intake, holley projection and related components 1800

isky cam/components [178] & arp head studs [55]-ebay 233

z fan, radiator, oil cooler-cardona 200

cad plated dipstick & oil pan plug & alternator brackets, oil pan bolts-ebay 32

hks metal head gasket [59], autometer boost gauge [19]-ebay 78

p90 cylinder head, turbo adj oil pump, turbo pistons & rods-ebay 257

stainless steel valve cover bolt set, z shifter with tt knob-ebay 96

magnecor plug wires, jacobs ultra coil, allison elec ign & distributor-ebay 118

billet z parts-water pulley, fuel & cam plates-ebay 227

z tilton master cylinders, custom pedal box, balance bar & cable, custom pedals 203

zx tranny, centerforce df clutch, header & exh-fox 400

total expense -3367

 

this list includes items sold that were pulled from car for swap

 

Hey David... $10.19 a hp isn't bad! For the money spent and what you got out of it, is more than what you can ask for. Congrats on the numbers and it keeps me going n pushing to get my car done.

 

So when are we gonna get to 400 rwhp! ....lol

[SSflyer]

The second time around is exactly right. I'm up to $27k now, and I still need exhaust and A/C. If only I had known then what I know now! The best advise I could give anyone now is to go and buy the absolute best condition car you can find, regardless of the cost. The time and expense of rebuilding every single part will always be more.

[tweakinZs]

I have used the search portal and cant find what Im looking for, Like I said there is alot of info on everything being brand new, from bumper to bumper. I have a very decent Z right now that really doesnt need anything, its all in good-shape. So my question simply is, Do I have to spend $3000-$4000 eventhough all I want to do is the swap. 60s block, carburated, 5spd, shorty headers, ect.... I wouldnt ask these questions, but Ive been a member here for a little over a month, been trying to study up on both motor ideas I have and just cant find anything about anyone wanting to do simple changes like I am. Thanks again

 

-Mario

[Jackhammer]

So my question simply is' date=' Do I have to spend $3000-$4000 even though all I want to do is the swap. 60s block, carburated, 5spd, shorty headers, ect.... I wouldnt ask these questions, but Ive been a member here for a little over a month, been trying to study up on both motor ideas I have and just cant find anything about anyone wanting to do simple changes like I am. Thanks again

 

-Mario[/quote']

 

IMO...and experience. No... not $3K to $4K....How about all of $5K and then some. Unless.... some one is going to give you a ready to install long block. I see no way around $5K++.

 

I am making some assumptions here... but let's take the middle of the road approach and price out just what you list above and not take into consideration the other components and expertise needed to have a reliable conversion.

 

Long Block (rebuilt: new pistons/rings/bolts/cam/ heads machined with new valves/guides/springs/etc. all balanced .........$3K.

 

Carburetor and manifold.... $5/600.00

 

5 Speed...... Rebuilt T5 World Class... $800.00

 

Shorty Headers and related exhaust system... $6/800.00 (really conservative here)

 

At this point we are pushing 5k and still have not addressed things like the clutch, drive shaft, rear end and half shafts, sub frame re-enforcement, other conversion related things like engine mounts and transmission braces. Other engine requirements: alternator,ignition system, pulleys and brackets, radiator and brackets, wires and fuel lines, starter. engine dress up items......etc.....etc....etc.

 

Here again this is assuming you are wanting to build a reliable,safe,fun and reasonably appealing V8 conversion.

 

If you are able to do a conversion for less than $3K....please post with pics how you did it. I would love to see the results.

 

Good Luck

[tweakinZs]

I am making some assumptions here... but let's take the middle of the road approach and price out just what you list above and not take into consideration the other components and expertise needed to have a reliable conversion.

 

Long Block (rebuilt: new pistons/rings/bolts/cam/ heads machined with new valves/guides/springs/etc. all balanced .........$3K.

 

Carburetor and manifold.... $5/600.00

 

5 Speed...... Rebuilt T5 World Class... $800.00

 

Shorty Headers and related exhaust system... $6/800.00 (really conservative here)

 

At this point we are pushing 5k and still have not addressed things like the clutch' date=' drive shaft, rear end and half shafts, sub frame re-enforcement, other conversion related things like engine mounts and transmission braces. Other engine requirements: alternator,ignition system, pulleys and brackets, radiator and brackets, wires and fuel lines, starter. engine dress up items......etc.....etc....etc.

 

Here again this is assuming you are wanting to build a reliable,safe,fun and reasonably appealing V8 conversion.

 

If you are able to do a conversion for less than $3K....please post with pics how you did it. I would love to see the results.

 

Good Luck[/quote']

 

That was my question excactly. I already have a reliable engine, trans, welder, cutting torch, vices, ect, ect... What I want to know is, beyond all the parts, what can I look to be spending to have it all installed. Im not looking to build a 100% brand new, ls1 t5 wannabe corvette. Do I have to buy new mounts or can they be made? Also can I use the stock Z rear end? Can I use the stock gas tank? What would have to be done with the computer going from a F.I. inline 6 to a carbureted V-8? Would the stock fuel-pump work. I just want to know how many things I HAVE to buy brand new. And what i can just temporarily reuse so its driveable.

[Pop N Wood]

That was my question excactly. I already have a reliable engine, trans, welder, cutting torch, vices, ect, ect... What I want to know is, beyond all the parts, what can I look to be spending to have it all installed. Im not looking to build a 100% brand new, ls1 t5 wannabe corvette. Do I have to buy new mounts or can they be made? Also can I use the stock Z rear end? Can I use the stock gas tank? What would have to be done with the computer going from a F.I. inline 6 to a carbureted V-8? Would the stock fuel-pump work. I just want to know how many things I HAVE[/u'] to buy brand new. And what i can just temporarily reuse so its driveable.

 

You really need to buy the JTR manual, read it, then see how many of your questions were answered.

 

Yes, ylou can make the mounts (the JTR manual gives templates). Yes you can reuse the gas tank and all the stock guages. Yes, the stock Z rear will work. Some will last longer than others depending upon how much HP you have, whether you are auto or manual and how you drive.

 

Documented JTR swaps have been done for $1500. I can no longer find the link but a guy named Ron Tyler posted how he did it. I thnk the JTR manual says they did one for that. Figure maybe another $500 for inflation.

 

The #2 most important thing to a low buck swap is your ability to source parts, but the #1 most important thing is having the attitude you seem to have: don't go crazy trying to do too much. Where most guys get killed is trying to buy a specific type of part or the dreaded "while I'm at it" syndrome. A rebuilt World Class T5 is probably a smart way to do, but if you get a killer deal on a 350 with an auto, go with that.

 

Get the JTR manual and follow their advice.

[Jackhammer]

That was my question excactly. I already have a reliable engine, trans, welder, cutting torch, vices, ect, ect... What I want to know is, beyond all the parts, what can I look to be spending to have it all installed. Im not looking to build a 100% brand new, ls1 t5 wannabe corvette. Do I have to buy new mounts or can they be made? Also can I use the stock Z rear end? Can I use the stock gas tank? What would have to be done with the computer going from a F.I. inline 6 to a carbureted V-8? Would the stock fuel-pump work. I just want to know how many things I HAVE[/u'] to buy brand new. And what i can just temporarily reuse so its driveable.

 

Dude...buy the JTR Conversion Manual. Here is the site: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

 

Develop your questions after reading it.....ALL of what your asking is in the manual.

 

I will leave you with this quote from the author of the Conversion Manual. "The internet has a lot of information. Some of it good, and some of it not so good. When it comes to engine swaps, there is a lot of mis-information. Be aware that not every "expert" on the internet is really an expert".

 

Buy the Manual.

 

Jack

[tweakinZs]

I have to say thanks to JACKHAMMER and POPNWOOD. The only people who actually gave me info I can work with. My brother agreed with me to use his shop to do the swap. We are gonna do a bare bones 350, Im going to use a th350 trans, Im hoping to get a 5spd though. Im using everything I can fromthe Z. I will eventually get around to replacing everything new but for now Im just gonna do a streetable stock 350. Thanks for the help from everyone, I will post pics if I get a camera, and I am very determined to do the swap without even reaching the $1000 marl. Wish me luck....

 

-Mario

[twoeightythreez]

71 240z-1400 I wrecked it

78 280z to replace 71 from J/y 1200 (very little rust and ran)

81 ZX 5-speed from pick part 90 bucks (250,000miles)

cost to rebuild said tranny after blowing 2nd gear at the strip-700

New stock clutch-60

another stock clutch-60

Centerforce stage 2 clutch-250 (for some reason my L28 has too much torque for the stock clutch...and tranny for that matter)

Fidanza lightweight flywheel (I turned my old one to steel due to stock clutch slippage 8)

60mm MSA TB-165

Ebay short ram&K and N-120

new windshield-150

MSA weatherstrip kit-295

MSA carpet kit-295

MSA new OEM center console-65

MSA full dash cap-120

Period 16x7 OZ wheels-500

New 225-50R16 tires (Kuhmo) 295

3" muffler shop exhaust-350

new front rotors-50 each total 100

new drums 160 both

new brake linings front rear 45

AUtozone slave cyl. 35

another autozone cyl free

3rd autozone slave cyl free

Nissan OEM slave cyl 90- and worth it

MSA 3-2-1 header 285

Couple it to my exhaust 50

Replace flowmaster with super turbo cuz header made car too loud-100

Recharge stock A/C-100 works great

K&N recharge kit-25

Two good used door panels-75

Ford dark blue paint for door panel insets-8

Paint job (FBI Blue) 2500

76 bumpers to replace dented original 78's-40

Labor to install all parts-free, i did it myself

Speedhut EL glo gauge faces 125

Speedhut afr gauge 110

bosch 1-wire O2 sensor-20

have shop install sensor bung into header-40

5-gal quietcar sound deadener-200 WORKS!

industrial roofing foam-200

Over 10K and counting......

Now I'm going turbo so lets keep going

68 510 wagon 500

trade wagon for L28ET and rebuilt turbo, plus lotsa parts such as 4.11 R200

MS-II unassembled w/ 4-bar MAP, GM IAC 400

88 sentra electric fan-45

stanza TPS-35

7MGTE injectors-free "pocket" discount (they charged me 70 bux for a stinking fan and TPS!)

280z tach 12 bucks (mine broke-fixed now)

So now 12K and counting

STILL HAVE THE RELIABLE OL' STOCK MOTOR THAT WAS IN THE CAR WHICH WAS IN THE J/Y 4 YEARS AGO...hilarious. I'm married to that car...but I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

Kinda goes like "rattlin bog"

...and in this bog there was a yard, a rare yard and a rattlin yard

and in the yard there was a car a rare z and a rattlin z

and in the z there was a branch

and on the branch a twig

on the twig a leaf

on the leaf a bug

on the bug a hair

on the hair a germ...u know how it goes

so the germ on the hair the hair on the bug the bug on the leaf the leaf on the twig the twig in the car the car in the yard the yard in the bog and the bog down in the valley-o

[Twoeightnine]

I purchased all of the majors in advance.

New trans, coil overs, eng swap kit, radiator, seals and such.

Still spending on the drive train. Clutch kit is next.

Letting her go to paint as we speak. And I expect that quote to rise.

I had a budget of 6k and have kept the receipts.

Dead positive that I will bust the budget with the purchase of new glass.

Rods....arn't they fun!

[LT280z]

Initial purchase of car already painted with Panasports etc. - $ 6k

ZZ4 & T56 from donor car (after the shell was sold) - $1500- super deal

Cage assembled and painted $ 600

Brakes to stop the v8z - $ 650

Coilovers to compensate for the extra weight - $600

Autometer Gauges - $575

JTR kit - $1100

Driveshaft - $200

Framerail modifications and bracing - $100 (material only)

M/C and hose etc. - $300

So that puts me @ $11,625 so far and the motor and tranny are still sitting on the floor next to the car.......

 

The conversion car above was the nicest z I had ever seen when i bought it. Its was painted and completely rebuilt before i bought it...so i payed alot for it because the work was already done. The reason i was willing to pay so much was because the owner had hundreds of pictues (2 shoeboxes) throughout the process and all the receipts. It has brand new interior, dash, paint, undercarriage was powdercoated as well as undercoated, wheels, seals, etc,etc..........As nice as the car was with the I6 it was just too slow.

 

A totally opposite build would be my dads 280z.....

LT1 and th350 - $1100

Car - $350 (great body bad motor)

Solid axle w/machine work - $700

Springs - traded a old amp for them - $0

Dash- aluminium- $50 (material only)

Cage - $500

Wheels - $200

Procharger - $1200 (had 25k on it)

N2o - $400 (used but complete)

which brings it to: $4500

Gauges - $0 (good friend)

You have to take into consideration that all the fab work for the axle mounting as well as all the labor to install everything is being done by me and my dad.

[a6t8vw]

bought the car for 900, redid everything b4 the v8 about $8,000 could have been double that but i did everything myself, now ive started to put the chevy 350 in and droped another 2500 so far so im already at 10.5k

im doin the roll cage right now, i dont wanna die!

[ULISES]

I have spent ill say around 22k on the LS2 swap, Including other parts needed.

 

On the whole car I have around 40k and counting.Sometimes I dont even believe it but I have lots of receips and they do adds up.

[2500lb Tuxedo]

delivering pizza all summer long with no AC i was able to scrape this together... (still have till mid september before school starts)

 

parts were bought mostly used via low-balling, or in the jy, or from autozone (friend works there).

 

Have:

1971 240z w/ no engine- 400.00 (used)

14’’ enkei wheels- came with car

300zxt axles- 70.00 (jy)

300zxt r200 lsd 3.54- 120.00 (jy)

Chevy t5 upgraded to world class gears, 0 miles- 450.00 (used)

‘95 LT1 with alum heads from z28- 350.00 (used)

‘95 camaro ecu auto- 100.00 (used)

‘96 obdII harness- 100.00 (used)

Alum Radiator as suggested by jtr- 100.00 (autozone with 20% off)

Motor mounts- free (my friends dad made them)

Struts-200 (autozone)

Fenco 153 tooth flywheel-70.00 (autozone)

Fenco Clutch-200 (autozone)

Ecu edit- home brew

Taurus 2 speed Radiator fan- 30.00 (jy)

misc: polished valve covers, stainless steel hose sleeve dress up kit w/ blue and red anodized ends, all gaskets for motor, primer, many different anti rust products, bondo, hi-temp black silicone stuff (aka gasket maker), brake fluid, motor oil, rubberized undercoating in a can, bedliner in a can, dexcool radiator fluid, sandpaper, and some other small things like ratchet sockets, tools, sanding blocks, etc.

 

Still need:

Coilovers- 500

TunerCat- 200

Harness edit from pcm for less- 200

Toyota s12w calipers-100 (using z calipers as core... try it, it works haha)

280z rotors-100

280z calipers-

custom Driveshaft-600.00

Seats-400

Poly bushings-200

Lugnuts- free from jy via in my pocket

Revolver cylinder shift knob (5 bullet chambers for 5 gears... the larger caliber guns have 5 bullets instead of 6)-200

R200 mustache bar-30

Custom tranny mounts-free

Block hugger headers-300

Custom exhaust-500

MM Cv axle adapters-200

 

some other things i am yet to encounter... prolly tac on another 1500 in unexpected crap.

[LS2 V8 Miata]

About $18,500.00 above & beyond the race prepped car I started with at about $10,000.00 and I'm not finished yet. Yup them receipts for all those little grade 8 bolts & nuts do add up!!

[COZY Z COLE]

LOL.... I've spent $30,000+ and there's no end in sight...

Boys and their Toys...

 

 

LARRY

[LS2 V8 Miata]

It's funny in the V8 Miata conversion community, the myth flies around of doing a V8 conversion for about $12,000 and lots of new projects start, few finish and most owners, even if they DID KNOW wouldn't want to tell anybody the real cost out of sheer embarassment at being SO WRONG !!

 

Oh, the great fun being a sick to the bone motorhead!!

[a6t8vw]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314369