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ARIZONA Z CAR BILLET ALUMINUM MUSTACHE BAR--Nice


mas28O

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The last time I spoke to Dave @ Arizona Zcar, he said that the r230 mustache bar is still in the works and that the Q45 bar would not work on the r230 as the bolt pattern is different.

 

Thanks for confirming that for me dude!!

 

Though, I wished I was wrong.....:(

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Thanks for confirming that for me dude!!

 

Though' date=' I wished I was wrong.....:([/quote']

Yup, waiting for one myself to drop in an R230. I may just have to do it the old fashioned way...pay someone to do it for me!! LOL

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I would need the bolt spacing of the r230 diff along with the placement of it in relationship to the mustache bar mounting points. I could do a model of it pretty quickly. Are they generally 0.5" thick?

 

Regards,

Justin

 

I'll see about getting those measurements, but I think they are a bit thicker than .5" inch when made from aluminum. The steel ones are prob .5" thick.

 

Here is a pic of the aluminum one for the R200 from Arizona Z Car:

 

r2002.jpg

 

r2003.jpg

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You know, after looking at the pics, and pondering for a few moments, I can think of at least one reason not to consolidate mustache and uprights into one piece.

 

Terry, on your setup, is this unit bolted directly to the frame of the car, or are there bushings? If the latter, then of course the twisting, vibration, etc. from the diff will be transferred to the control arms (not a good thing IMO). If the former, well, it'd pretty much have to be a hard-core racer to justify that harshness.

 

And so to Dave (arizonazcar) I must say, nevermind.....

 

Hey guys, Just saw your discussion on this post and thought you might be interested in my 1pc tubular set-up. Here is some pics

 

Jeff

 

rear_Assm.JPGDSCN0718.JPG

DSCN0720.JPG

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Hi, Thanks for the comments.

The uprights and control arms are just 1 off parts, for my personal project. I really don’t sell this stuff as it seems I can never find enough time to simply finish my own car. Both the uprights and control arm are made of 4130 Cr-Mo. I polished all the tubes on the control arms before welding, welded them, and simply clear powder coated them. I will do the upright in semi black.

The CV axles are from a 300zx turbo with custom 1 inch shorter axles. They bolt to the same 300zx axle flange. What I did was take the rear bearing hub from the 300zx turbo trailing arms and cut it off. The OD of the hub is about the same size of the ID of the 240 strut hub. So with a small clean up of both parts on the lathe, I inserted the hub and welded it in. What is cool is that I now use the 5 lug 300zx turbo stub axles and bearings, and I offset the hub 20mm outboard, now I can run 5 lug 40mm offset 8.5 inch rims with perfect alignment and no wheel spacers.

Sorry if this is a little off subject.

Img5605.JPG

 

 

DSCN1220.JPG

DSCN1089.JPG

Img5613.JPG

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WOW, I really love what you've done. Are you modeling everything in solidworks? I really like the idea on the z31 5 lug rear hub setup.

 

If you dont have time to sell or machine any of these parts, do you mind sharing them with DIYers like myself?

 

Best Regards,

Justin Olson

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WOW, I really love what you've done. Are you modeling everything in solidworks? I really like the idea on the z31 5 lug rear hub setup.

 

If you dont have time to sell or machine any of these parts, do you mind sharing them with DIYers like myself?

 

Best Regards,

Justin Olson

 

The complete front and rear suspension is modeled in Pro-Engineer, as it is always better to get things done right the first time by designing in a 3-d software as opposed to wasting a bunch of metal and time. All the CNC parts are not designed to be easily manufactured (the joy of only wanting to make 1 set) They are all surface machined, so they would be difficult to make manually. PM me and we can talk more.

Thanks Jeff

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