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250 GTO door buttons


y-not

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Meaning? :icon42:

 

The meaning was that I would ship the parts to you because you have the resources there to do the job. However, someone named Ken may take over the door button refinishing. I'm emailing him detailed pics today so he can get an estimate from his shop. PM me with your email address if you want pics too.

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I posted this before but I think it will help if I post it again.

 

You do not need to use the escutcheons or the rubber gaskets.

 

I picked up some rubber "O" rings at the hardware store and used them behind the lock assembly.

 

I use a Dremel to carefully round out the opening in the fiberglass door panel to accept the lock and "O" ring. I also used a small round file to remove the locator on the lock assembly right up next to the boss so the "O" ring will sit flush with the barrel and boss of the lock. I think that, by using the "O" ring, you will find that it is more complaint and makes it easier to deal with small differences.

 

One last note: I found it very difficult to install the lock retaining clips on the inside of the door. So, I made clips out of piano wire that I got from the hobby shop. This allowed me to simply slide the custom made retaining clips along the barrel of the lock until it fell into the grooves. I hope this helps.

 

GTOButton.JPG

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It seems we are making progress on refinishing the three sets I have. KEN (I can't remember his HZ screen name) is forwarding pics that I emailed to him to his shop for an estimate... (hopefully) the price is affordable. I'LL have one set as well as KEN and I believe FILMJAY & TOMOHAWK expressed interest as well.

 

I don't know how to be fair to both TOMOHAWK & FILMJAY.:roll:

 

BTW, I'm not looking for any profit... just to break even. Total cost including original price and shipped from Canada ($20/set) plus shipping to Ken (~$3/set) plus refinishing (? cost ?) plus return shipping here ($5/set) plus shipping to you (~$5)... something like $50 delivered. Seems a little high but considering the brand new finish and their rarity it's not bad. Keep in mind additional re-keying and new key cost once the set arrives there.

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SpeedRacer... Thank you for the "O" ring suggestion. That actually looks better than the rubber gaskets and I'll bet it seals just as well. That's a nice clean look!! And this may save some refinishing expense on the escutcheons.

 

UPDATE: The screen name of the guy who may do the button refinishing is Porter. The good news is he hopes to have an estimate in a couple of days. The so-so news is there will only be one set left available. The good news is it'll be at actual cost.

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  • 5 months later...

Higuys

 

Do you *have* to use the Civic pushbutton lock? I know you can get something called a "Cam Lock" with a long cylinder (in quantity!) and matched sets (see photo.) If the cylinder is long enough it could work. I dunno how it would look tho, because the part you push on would be a little larger, and the threads on the cylinder would need to be machined off.

 

Maybe you could use one with a smaller key so the head is smaller?

 

FWIW

 

thxZ

weather_resistant cam Lock_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Still Open Thread?

 

Over a decade ago I found two cvcc hatch pulls for my doors. Back then I could be picky, so I spent a few months searching the local Pick-A-Part for Hondas.

PS: the door panels of old American cars sometimes use screws with dime or nickle size heads, yet very flat and thin. Great for holding Z interior panels, since I went for

a spartan, race type gray/siolver interior. Looking for cvcc's....I would fill my pockets with these - and english indicator lites, toggle switches and Alphas or Fiats.... I used their gauges, with italian script "agua" Oleo" etc. with senders chevy SB.

I left the stock Z button for the trunk.

 

I highly recommend the Electric door pull solenoids.

I didn't bother with all the inside mechanism.

 

VinhZXT's two posts really are a clean modern answer!!

http://www.dirak.com/uploads/katalog...sch/E1-060.pdf

 

This finger pull has TONS of potential, either with the

dirak above, or something else (z trunk latch, keyed, ??)

http://www.illinoislock.com/cam_locks.asp?id=605

Plated Steel Finger Pull Part number S9657 is also available

 

HOWEVER.....funny story.

I bought my 73' donor car already with a V8. Really a nice car....built by an engineer type.

It already had an alarm, but I "plugged in" a newer one.

More buttons of control on the alarm.

The wiring head on most of these are Universal.

 

What I didn't realize was the electric fuel pump was set to cutoff if you didn't disengage the alarm.

Since I had been using this alarm Mainly for door opening....no siren....Quite Often the car would stall for No Reason.....after the fuel in the carb and lines ran dry.

 

I sat at intersections several times pulling fuses and checking wiring in the console before I figured that out.

 

I used a set of Cadillac electric window switches, circa 1975, to open the doors from the inside. Small 1 inch toggle buttons, that I mounted in the console - after the shifter, before the arm rest....PERFECT Fit and look.

 

I haven't done anything with my interior door panels, except to remove the "upholstery" and repaint black and silver....SO I still have manual door handles...GREAT for dead batteries....and mine sits a lot.

 

Eventually (yeah - sure :) ) When I redo the door panels

I will leave a wire door pull -discreet- to manually open the doors. I (me) used to crawl in the hatch to open the door, Then I fabricated a stick and loop, now....those Kids born 17 years ago-that pulled me from my assigned Kit duties....I make them crawl in and do it.

NOW at 16 & 17....they wonder why they can't drive it?

 

I wonder the same thing :)

 

 

So...electric doors, dummy handles, because your probably going to run an alarm anyway

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Since the GTO is a replica kit, the door handles and the trunk latch are essential. Some might want to leave them off, but serious people will want the correct look, which requires the honda pushbutton mechanisms. That is unless an alternative but equivalent lock is found.

 

The same goes for the electronic alarm system with the door opener solenoids.

 

thxZ

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Since the GTO is a replica kit, the door handles and the trunk latch are essential. Some might want to leave them off, but serious people will want the correct look, which requires the honda pushbutton mechanisms. That is unless an alternative but equivalent lock is found.

 

The same goes for the electronic alarm system with the door opener solenoids.

 

thxZ

 

 

That's the beauty of Electrics. The best looking handle you can find, don't worry about the inside connection or getting it to work. Be it Honda or t the fingerpulls listed (great possibility there).

Leave the MG at home!

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  • 1 year later...

Resurrecting this thread to ask for some help. I recently bought a 1975 280Z that was converted with a 250 GTO body and a Chevy 327 V8 in 1992. The driver's door handle backed out of the door about 1/4 inch, but would push back in with no problem ...... until the door latch would no longer work with the outside Honda door pull. Today I opened the door panel and saw the plate that actuated the latch mechanism has slipped over the button from the Honda door pull.

 

doorpull1.jpg

doorpull2.jpg

 

How is the door pull locked into the door? This one just seemed to have been pushed in and was relying on friction. There are no clips lying at the bottom of the door and the cylinder end seems to be about flush with the inside of the door making no room for a retaining clip. I hope anyone that has used the Honda door pulls can give me some insight so I don't have to pull the passenger side door apart. The driver's side wasn't pretty and don't ask how long it took for me to figure out how the window crank handle came off - not a standard Datsun part with a clip. :rolleyes:

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Here is where the Honda clip fit.

Thank you, especially for the picture. It's too bad some of the older pictures from this thread are no longer available. I went ahead and removed the passenger door panel to get a look at the "good" part. No clip that I can see, but it looks like the builder put a set screw on the assembly to hold the part in place. Since I found the window roller (bamper) at the bottom of the driver's door, I can take a day or two to ponder things while I get a new part if they are still available.

 

BTW, I have been watching your build for some time while looking for a car. Now that I have one, I appreciate how you're going about it even more. :cheers:

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