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R230 first trial fit (pictures)


jbc3

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Ross:

 

Just looking at your pics of Ricks R230 mockup. Is that front mount something that you guys are working on or is that Ricks?

 

When's someone going to come up with one so that this can be a bolt in swap? I've had to recognize that my fabbing skills are slim to zip (unlike the majority of you guys) so any bolt in parts are great!

 

Bryan

Dat240zg

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Dat240zg,

 

The front mount is mine - Ross borrowed it today for some measurements. He's looking into producing some front mount, maybe similar to this one. I'm sorry to say that the welder badly warped my perfectly fitting tacked - together mount ( It still will bolt in but needs some persuading with a big screwdriver as a lever) so measurements will be not-so-accurate for a production piece. I have to learn tig welding!

 

My mount uses the diff strap holes in the tunnel for mounting to the car, but also has a top plate directly above and inline with the diff "ears". This bolts to a portion of the trans tunnel reinforced by welding in a U-shaped piece of 1/8" steel to take the upward force. The diff bolts into welded in nuts on the mount from the bottom of the ears, and is suspended by its bushings from the top.

 

I've just learned this week that my CV axles are Ross's prototypes. As he has said, they can be used to make CV shafts that will work with any known 6-bolt flanged diff, R200 or 230 with the S30 Z's Stub-Stub width. I will try to center the cages in the housings before final axle build by trying different combinations of reversing/ flipping the cages.

 

On a side note, I have raised my R230 on the M-bar about 1-1/4" by means of a bolted on spacer, and notched the car's subframe above to make room for that big-a$$ pumpkin. Had to do that to get a decent axle angle on my lowered car - another benefit is increased clearance CVs-to-control arms.

 

I have not yet arrived at a rear anti-roll bar solution but am about to decide to get some slightly stiffer springs and go without it.

 

I've had my driveshaft built using the Powertrain Industries 3102-42 R230 Flange adaptor and Spicer 1310 solid U-joints - should be sufficient to contain my turbo L6's efforts.......

 

I'll take some pictures during final install, which "should" be in the next couple weeks.

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Ross:

 

Just looking at your pics of Ricks R230 mockup. Is that front mount something that you guys are working on or is that Ricks?

 

....any bolt in parts are great!

 

Bryan

Dat240zg

 

Bryan, as Speeder notes, it's his mount. We've seen many designs, all very functional (thanks for sending pics all of you!) and will carry a version similar to that shown to production to enhance our present package. Depending on your powertrain configuration and car height etc, some modification may still be required for an ideal install (ie. raise your diff and improve some clearance above to allow it to be raised) but these modifications would not be that challenging with our established pieces. Axles you see are proven - not prototype in full sense, we just had to complete a dimensional check as their are various mounting locations Z owners have been using and we hadn't stepped thru the dimensional check with Speeder's location until early this week.

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Here's what I have so Far:

 

Pictures of the front mount: Made from 3/16" steel and roll bar tubing.

 

Mount1.JPG

Mount2.JPG

 

Pics of the mount on the diff:

 

Mount230-1JPG

 

Mount230-2.JPG

Mount230-1.JPG

 

 

Mount230-3.JPG

 

And the whole setup:

230Setup.JPG

 

This shows the M-Bar spacer piece and the rear brace- Made from 1X2 rectangular tubing. Still need to add some gussets to that, but pretty much done.

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Thats a very nice set up there Rick... what is the bracket called MB spacer (part closest to us in pic with everything in it) used for?

All the other pieces I understand... :)

 

I think is used the mount to the M-bar, then the diff cover so it not only spaces the diff forward, but also raises the diff so the output flanges don't interfere with the lower control arms.

 

I am I correct or way off base?

 

Did you have to modify the rear subframe at all to fit the diff? If so, do you have any pictures of the finished mods?

 

Thanks?

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BBZ is correct. That thing raises the diff on the M-Bar, neccessitating a notch in the subframe above. The notch is just a section of the subframe cut out with a piece of 1X2 rectangular tube welded in with 1" side vertical, with some gussets to strengthen to "step" created. This gives about 2" more clearance over the diff.

 

Sharp eyes will note that I have some ~ 1/4" thick washers (L6 crank pulley washers actually) between the M-bar bracket and diff. Forgot why I did this but made it fit better during test installation.

 

If all goes as planned, final install will be next week, and I'll get pics of the notched area under the car. Right now there's a wimpy R200 obstructing the view.:mrgreen:

 

BBZ, I think it's very cool that you will retain the IRS on your big block car. As Scottie GNZ (Traitor that he is) has shown, the Z can be made to launch hard with IRS, providing you don't break stuff - and the R230 should fix that..

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I am happy to see all the progress so many have made on the diff upgrades.I am also anxious to see how the q45 r200 holds up as compared to the r230 on hard launches some of your cars are capable of.Personally I hope the VLSD r200 makes the grade as I have one in the floor and a line on a 2nd one as a spare.Also curious about the Quaife but I think the weak point on it would be broken teeth on the ring gear or pinion gear before carrier had a problem.Good news that Ross's axles fit either app. .I'd love to see the Independent rear Nissan pieces perform reliably and comparibly to the vette and straight axle versions some have had success with,without the astronomical expense.Not that I'm a cheap a**,but I've bought whole cars,nice whole cars,for the same amount of money this upgrade is gonna cost.Time to get into the piggy bank again I guess,boy,my wife is just gonna LOVE this one...

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Hi all,

 

Vaguely related to this topic, are any of you guys fitting diff coolers? I'm going to have a go at fitting a R200V from an S13 200SX - 'cos they're cheap and plentiful in the UK and the 3.92:1 ratio is pretty good. The one I picked up came with the cooler rad and pump, so I'm thinking if Nissan thought it was worth it then maybe I should get that in place too. Yay/Nay?

 

BTW great thread, it's been giving me plenty of ideas and pointers!

 

Cheers,

Rob

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I think a diff cooler would only be helpful to those going through the twisties.

 

Personally I don't think I'll ever need one because the only time the diff will be 'worked out' is a quarter mile at a time.

 

Other than that even the car itself will only see the streets on Spring, Summer, and a few Fall Friday nights.

 

Hardly a reason to have a diff cooler in my case.

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Here are pictures of the subframe notch from the Front:

Notch.JPG

and from the rear:

Notch1.JPG

In this shot the Trans tunnel reinforcement for the top of the diff mount can be seen.

Here's a shot of the diff installed. Finally in there for the last time (I hope) after lifting that big-a$$ lump in and out about 20 times for test fitting!

R230Comp.JPG

Sure does look sweet with big CVs installed-

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a quick update on my R230 install:

 

It's all done.

 

I was pleasantly surprised to find that my rear sway bar fits (Suspension Techniques 7/8" bar in Stock 280Z front mount location ) with no interference with the LCAs.

 

Halfshafts are sitting at ~ 1-2* downward angle to the stubs on my severely lowered car with car static on wheels. Perfect!

 

There is no interference with anything from my 3-1/2" driveshaft with Spicer 1310 solid u-joints-

 

I highly recommend the method I used to raise the diff - solves lots of problems with the design. Well worth the work of notching the subframe.

 

The only concern I have is the angle of the driveshaft from the trans to diff flange - looks to be about 4* to the right.. The diff flange and trans output yoke are shimmed parallel to each other and the same height. This is mounting the R230 centered on the redrilled moustache bar.

 

I did this in conjunction with some other work on the car (custom gearset in my T-5 with Nissan bell and tailhousings - among other work), and will finish that other stuff in the next few days to be driving. I'll report back with results. I can't wait to bang on this setup without fear of breakage....

 

If I can remember to take my camera to the shop I'll take more pics.

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Just a quick update on my R230 install:

 

It's all done.

 

 

I did this in conjunction with some other work on the car (custom gearset in my T-5 with Nissan bell and tailhousings - among other work)' date=' and will finish that other stuff in the next few days to be driving. I'll report back with results. I can't wait to bang on this setup without fear of breakage....

 

If I can remember to take my camera to the shop I'll take more pics.[/quote']

 

 

Gee Rick, you've got to be chomping at the bit while getting close to being able to take that baby for a spin....

 

What a feeling its going to finally be, to not worry in the back of your mind, about breaking the drivetrain, while just trying to have a little fun.

 

Yep, I think you have all the bases covered with that full R230/axles/stubs mod, and of course the bullet proof gearset you had put in the T-5.

Just don't forget that camera, cause you've gotta have some one snap a pick while your laying down a 50 yd pair of black stripes.... burnout.gif

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Guest JAMIE T

I'm putting a new twist on the R230 diff install. I'm fabbing new strut housing to carry the 300ZXTT Hubs and bearing also. The only thing I'll need to buy will be the shafts from Moser. I'll post pics when it's closer to being done. I'm building the Jig in my spare time right now. I hope to have them done in time for Mike Kelly Spring Z bash on the 30th. The design will also include newly designed adjustable LCA's. This set-up should be superior in strength to most existing methods.

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I'm putting a new twist on the R230 diff install. I'm fabbing new strut housing to carry the 300ZXTT Hubs and bearing also. The only thing I'll need to buy will be the shafts from Moser. I'll post pics when it's closer to being done. I'm building the Jig in my spare time right now. I hope to have them done in time for Mike Kelly Spring Z bash on the 30th. The design will also include newly designed adjustable LCA's. This set-up should be superior in strength to most existing methods.

 

Jamie, that sounds very intresting. I thought of going the R230 route, but as you know, our rb26 motors will prolly need taller gears than a 3:69.

 

What do you have in mind to address the rpm's...?? (do tell...:D )

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