Starting My 454 BBC Install.....(pics)

[Cable]

Those headers look very similar to Hooker block-huggers. If the, the driver's side should clear OK, but on the passenger's side the collector will interfere with the frame rail. This happened with my car, and my 454 is centered in the engine compartment; in the JTR method, it's shifted over the the passenger's side by something like 3/4". My solution (or rather, the solution of the guy who did the roll cage install in my car) was to notch the frame rail, then weld in a sheet metal patch. Now the collector cleared the frame rail, but the collector flange was still in the way. This was solved by cutting off the collector flange, welding in an extension to the collector, with a 90-degree smooth bend, then welding the collector flange onto the end of the bend. It's still a tight fit around the starter (I should get a ministarter), and definitely causes heatsoak problems, but clears the frame rails OK.

 

 

That's interesting, I figured the driver side would be more hassle because of the steering shaft.

 

I guess we'll know soon if they will work 'as-is'. If not, I might 'bite' your ideas and perform the same mods in order to use them anyway.

 

Performing the mods is still better than forking over another $350 on a different set that I don't know for a fact will work either.

 

I already have a mini-starter, so I am good that way.

[Michael]

More on the Pro Topline heads...

 

I found some flow numbers for the Pro Topline 320cc heads. I don't know to what extent the flow would differ for the 290cc heads - hopefully, the only significant difference would be at the upper extreme of valve lift.

 

lift intake exhaust e/I

 

0.1 75 62 0.827

0.2 158 118 0.747

0.3 230 160 0.696

0.4 286 195 0.682

0.5 342 229 0.670

0.6 380 248 0.653

0.7 403 265 0.657

 

Intake flow compares favorably to ALL oval port heads (including AFR 265cc) at 0.600" lift and above. Below 0.600", the AFR's flow better. The Pro Toplines also beat most rectangular port heads with intake volume below 340cc.

 

The only downside is the slightly weak exhaust numbers (relative to the intake numbers) - e/I ratio could be better (AFR's get around 0.80). Certainly the idea of an aggressively split-pattern cam makes sense. I'd also consider some exhaust porting.

 

How far did they raise the exhaust port location above stock? Most aftermarket BBC heads, except for Edelbrock, raise the exhaust ports 0.300" or more, for improved flow. Sometimes this causes header clearance issues.

[Cable]

How far did they raise the exhaust port location above stock? Most aftermarket BBC heads, except for Edelbrock, raise the exhaust ports 0.300" or more, for improved flow. Sometimes this causes header clearance issues.

 

I haven't measured, but the exhaust ports appear to be just alittle above stock. They don't require longer bolts on the outside row, but the port is shaped so it kinda goes around the bolt hole boss.

 

Hopefully I'll get some time this week to break out the sanding rolls, discs, and carbide bits and take care of the last bit of polishing and de-burring I want to take care of.

[Guest Ph-Dr]

My simple change is somewhat like a BB Swap.

 

I bought My '73 240Z already with a '62 283 V8, and I think with a torqueflite (?).

I've had it for 13 years (WOW, feels wierd to see that), and since my daughters were born 11 and 12 years ago, drive it about 1000 miles a year. It has a 250GTO body, so with all that sheet metal removed, and only 150hp, it still is real fun.

 

I never met the guy who installed it, but they said he was in aerospace

(still up there?).

I think he crafted all his own parts. It is the Original V8 swap design (Scarab?) - motor high-up, away from firewall.

Besides using the JTR parts and position for better cooling and handling - - - - - - -

I want to throw a 350 in it.

Mo' Power Mo' Power

 

My Question:

Is this as simple as it seems, New motor mounts and shorten the Drive shaft?

 

BBZ mentioned a fuel cell, is that going right in place of the stock?

(I've seen some that cut out the Spare tire well).

 

On the Cheap and moving slowly, but still crazy after all these years: Anyone have an idea on some bolt-ons to beef up a 283 ?? That may be the way to go, short term.

Presently, I have an older Performer intake with a.....450CFM carb

(that's what I'm told) great range tho'.

Stock Ramhorn Headers. I was told it might have an RV cam. (How do you tell?). I added pointless Mallory ignition.

 

Lastly, I have broken more than a few knuckles on SBC's.

BUT, the Vacum advance on the Distributor is in the 9 O'clock position. Looking from the front. Seems It should be in the 6 or 7 o'clock position. Or is that a strange dream? Runs fine (a lil hot). I installed the Mallory, correctly - the stock was the same. Mathematically, is it possible to put a cam in 45' off and would that change the Distributor placement, and still run?

Or am I paying one MORE bill for the descretions of my youth

[jap tin]

The 350 will go right in where the 283 was. Same mounts, driveshaft ect. As far as the distributor vacume advance can goes, you have to pull the dist. and turn the oil pump shaft to get the vacume advance moved around

[Cable]

Well I didn't end up working on the heads, but I did finally sit down with my cam designer at Lunati to get my custom solid flat tappet cam specs laid out.

 

 

The cam will be a street/bracket "Sleeper" cam in my 454, plus will be an awesome nitrous cam should I choose to use it down the line (I will ). Good idle and exhaust note, great power. Will need at least a 2500 stall converter, but that's no biggie. Power 2500 to 6800. 600HP should be easy after tuning.

 

How big my smile will be is anyone's guess......

[Corzette]

I would suggest a 3500 stall for that intake. A 2500 stall will only get you max 1500 brake stall unless your going with a trans brake.... EDGE converters are the bomb IMHO.

 

CZ

[Michael]

In hindsight, it would have been good if you had the heads flow-benched at your local machine shop before commencing the porting/polishing job. And then one more time, after the job is complete. Sure, there are the published flow numbers, but all flow benches and testing methods are a little different, and a clean before/after comparison would have been greatly useful!

 

For my 236 heads, I obtained less from my porting job than I had hoped – but I didn’t do a “before†test either, so it’s unscientific.

[Cable]

I would suggest a 3500 stall for that intake. A 2500 stall will only get you max 1500 brake stall unless your going with a trans brake.... EDGE converters are the bomb IMHO.

 

CZ

 

Oh, I had planned on at least 3000+, I was just saying the cam will want at least 2500.

 

I think I am going to go with a Coan 10" again. It worked nice and only had 7-8% efficenty loss on the top end. Converters like TCI and B&M are closer to 12-15% loss.

[Cable]

In hindsight' date=' it would have been good if you had the heads flow-benched at your local machine shop before commencing the porting/polishing job. And then one more time, after the job is complete. Sure, there are the published flow numbers, but all flow benches and testing methods are a little different, and a clean before/after comparison would have been greatly useful!

 

[/quote']

 

I already had the heads flowed once with just alittle flash removed. The number I posted were the actually numbers, not Pro-Topline or a mag's.

 

I am not going to bother doing it again because I am not removing enough material to really affect the flow numbers one way or the other. I am just mirror polishing the chambers and exhaust port to reduce carbon buildup and prevent alittle pre-ignition.

[DavyZ]

 

Schweeet! Nice job on the mirror polishing; I have some Edelbrocks I should do that to. I fear about the porting job already done on them by someone else since I have no idea what it did to the flow.

 

The intake looks great after the media blasting, but will you seal the pores with paint or clear coat?

 

Davy

[Cable]

The intake looks great after the media blasting' date=' but will you seal the pores with paint or clear coat?

 

Davy[/quote']

 

I haven't decided yet. I've gloss clear coated intakes before and they tend to 'yellow' over time.

 

If I find a flat or satin clear in a rattle can, I might try that.

[Guest 305240]

Hey BBZ, Kudos to you. I found this on http://www.ratsun.com/ It might inspire you more

[jbk240z]

Thanks for the update, I was wondering if you gave up on the Z?........lol j/k

You might want to look into getting your intake powder coated with clear, I hear the stuff is really durable. Put the comic books down and get the Z together!!!...............J/K

[Cable]

Thanks for the update' date=' I was wondering if you gave up on the Z?........lol j/k

You might want to look into getting your intake powder coated with clear, I hear the stuff is really durable. Put the comic books down and get the Z together!!!...............J/K[/quote']

 

Its all about money. If I was a rich man it would be done in a week.

 

As it looks right now, it might be done by late summer, at the earliest. I still haven't finished the new engine, although its almost done.

 

Then I need to get a few things done to the car that I should of done before the first V8 was installed. The roll bar being the most important, for safety and to stiffen/strengthen the chassis.

 

Plus I wanna get my R230 VLSD dff installed too. I need $600+ just for the custom Moser axles and CV adapters to complete. Not to mention the labor costs if I don't do it myself.

 

Then there is a bunch of other little things, just name a few:

 

-Getting my TH350 rebuilt and beefed up

-Buying a decent 10" torque converter from ATI, Coan, Trans-Specialities, GER, etc.

-Replacing the stock tank for a fuel cell

-Adding/Installing a completely new 1/2" fuel system

-Cutting out the spare tire well, the welding in a patch

-Modifying the roll pan for a second polished stainless muffler for true-dual exhaust

-Cutting/Molding on a fiberglass cowl induction hood scoop to the stock hood

-Converting the front struts for adjustable coil-over springs

-Finishing my custom Auto Meter Sport-Comp dash

-Finishing my custom console plate for various toggle switches

-Re-installing my CD player, Rockford-Fosgate amp, and speakers/sub (gotta have tunes)

 

Hell, I might even re-carpet the floors.

[jap tin]

Just read your converter choices, Coan, ATI, both very good. Don't even think about GER. You would be better off laying your balls on an anvil and pounding them flat with a hammer than getting a GER converter.

[Cable]

Just read your converter choices, Coan, ATI, both very good. Don't even think about GER. You would be better off laying your balls on an anvil and pounding them flat with a hammer than getting a GER converter.

 

That's odd, my buddy has a GER and loves it.

 

I've personally run:

 

-Summit Racing house brand (okay for a street only SBC)

-B&M (junk)

-TCI (currently in my '86 K5 Blazer w/700R-4, good truck/towing converter)

-ATI (awesome converter)

-Coan (just as good as ATI IMO, but cost less).

[510six]

I look forward to seeing you at the track/street in late summer .Let me know if you need any help.I was so hoping to line up against you this season.

[Michael]

Project_BBZ, any updates?

 

I still haven't decided on the heads, but am leaning toward the Brodix Race-Rites. Aluminum is important to me (more a personal preference than a rigorous engineering judgment), and small-port BBC head choices in aluminum are quite limited.

 

Cam choice is shaping up to be a custom-grind from Cam Motion, or a very similar (both are mechanical roller) cam from Comp Cams, PN 11-770-8, XR274R series. I might use Comp Cams "beehive" springs, PN 26120

[jbk240z]

Hi, I was just wondering if you have had a chance to try those headers yet. I hope they work for you. I found a set that is similar locally, so just wondering about fitment. Good Luck!!!