Guest sabum Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 I am going with the type S. There is one delivered (new) for around $170 on e bay. Sounds like I am lucky my car is still running. 15 psi and no BOV with many passes through the 1/4 Jersey. That is the exact IC I am using. Do you have any pictures from the front of the Radiator? That thing looks huge in there! Any secrets for a good fit? Thanks Sabum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 Sabum - but are you using the stock turbo intake manifold? If so, again, a BOV may not be a necessity, though it can't hurt to have one either.. DOES anyone know at what level of boost the stock dump valve might not be effective anymore? Jersey - your car looks just too happy from the front Jersey if you have the time any way you can post a brief refresher on you setup? Been a while since I've personally seen the details and I imagine you've changed something? becuase I dont remember you running a 12.4... I dont know if you remember but I was basically trying to mimic your setup from the beginning since you have always gotten amazing times with the stock T3 and EFI (if thats what you're still running) which is what I knew I'd be stuck with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magic Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 Here is a pic of my setup. Much shorter run of IC piping this way and very little restriction in the IC. You can also see the 3" cold air intake that travels to just in front of the left front tire. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=972&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=972&cat=500&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 Is that painted or polished Magic? (the intake/valve cover) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sabum Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 I am using the stock intake. Most if not all ports are plugged. If you are talking about the dumper with the brass disk top that raises to dump the air, mine is removed and plugged. I even removed it on my 83, I think it dumped around 6-7 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 I'll try and get some overhead pics of how the IC is mounted this weekend Sadum. Looking now at that second pic i posted, that may have been when i had the smaller NPR in there. When i ran 12.4 Stock L28 Stock T3 Stock '82 ECM Stock FPR Stock throttle body Smaller NPR IC (Looks good WigenOut ) DSM BOV 370cc injectors Twisted stock AFM 2.5" DP to 3" to Dynomax bullet - all mandrel Threaded wastegate actuator T5 w/ACT PP, street disk 240mm flywheel 3.54 cv's 235/60/15 BFG DR's MSD 6a - Accel coil Electric fan Added Since Large NPR MSD FPR Line-Loc She's on the jackstands now waiting for the Nissan 5sp and the new Yoko's but, that's about it. Hopefully soon i will yank the motor and do a T3/T4, non-egr intake, 60mm TB, ported head and 300zx ECM/MAF. I'm just trying to get this thing in it's semi basic setup into the 11's then i'll start to do more mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 Here is a pic of my setup. Much shorter run of IC piping this way and very little restriction in the IC.You can also see the 3" cold air intake that travels to just in front of the left front tire. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=972&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=972&cat=500&page=1 Magic - No offense but I wouldn't call that 'much shorter run of IC piping'... I'd say you're saving maybe a foot of pipe length at best. There have been some who've suggested having the air turn a full 180* to enter an exit on the same side like that is not the most efficient way to do it, but of course it will work just fine that way and lots of people do it that way. I don't really think it would make any appreciable difference to run it one way or the other. If you wanted to run it that way, obviously that's a choice you have to make before you even get the I/C as you'd need an I/C that has the inlet/outlet's both on the same side aleady. Sabum - One other way to run the piping which no one has shown a pic of yet, would be the opposite of mine and Wigenout's setups... where the piping would go from the turbo outlet, cross over the engine bay to the passenger side and exit thru the radiator support there, go back thru the I/C towards the drivers side, thru the radiator support and then an S curve to go straight to the throttle body. Some people suggest this is slightly more efficient since the air doesn't pass thru the hot engine bay right behind the radiator and get warmed back up on it's way to the intake. But others belive the air is moving fast enough that either way you route it it doesn't have time to get warmed back up enough to make a difference. Also Sabum, about the dump valve, no what you're refering to is the pop off valve, which is just an emergency relief valve that keeps boost in the manifold from exceeding a certain pressure, in case the waste gate actuator fails or whatever. There is another valve on the intake, I'm not sure the proper name for it but I've heard it refered to here simply as a 'dump valve'... I dont recall what it looks like as I didn't know what it was before I ditched the turbo intake for the 280z intake... only heard about it or what it did after that. Anyways, that valve basically serves a very similiar function as the BOV from what I understand, so that when you snap the throttle shut after boosting (between shifts on hard acceleration) pressure wont build up after the turbo causing the compressor to surge. Someone else here might be able to point it out on one of these pics so you know what it is. I'm thinking you MUST still have it on there or else 15psi and no way to keep surge from occuring would have surely taken a huge toll on the stock turbo by now.... Jersey - Impressive, as always.... you really are a great example of what can be done with very minimal mods, and still remain my target for performance. Now that 12.4 was at 18psi right? simply amazing though the sheer lack of mods done there... again, my setup is very close to yours, about the only major differences now being the 3" mandrel exhaust which I should be getting done very soon (will be ordering the exact same parts you used as you refered to me from Summit and JC Whitney), and I've been shopping around for 370cc injectors again even though I have been using the RRFPR and have been loving it and it provided more than enough fuel at 14psi last I dynoed. While I dont think I'll ever be comfortable trying to kill my turbo as you are with that insane level of boost it's good to know what I can possibly achieve if I just do a couple more things to my car. Jersey, just out of curiosity, what happened with the BW or why are you going with a Nissan 5spd now? I thought you strongly prefered the T5 for this setup... didn't you have some problems in the past with the Nissan? Now that I mention it that is one other big difference between our setups, I always forget you were running the BW. Personally I can't stand that tranny , the stock Nissan doing great with 300+ftlbs of torque so far.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 I stripped the teeth off of third gear, just as my cousin has on the last 2 T5's and a few others here have. Right now, there's basically 3 choices of trannies for us - BWT5, Nissan 5sp and G-Force which really isn't something i'd consider right now due to the way they've been handling themselves and the price ($2k). So... I'm going to try the Nissan unit for now. I ran the a few Nissan 5sp's in my first Z back in '87 and blew 2 of them (snapped the mainshaft in one and blew the syncho's in the other) but, we'll see how it holds up. If i go through the Nissan unit quickly, i have a feeling the Z's going to sit for a while until we can come up with a stong alternative which wont cost $2k. Time will tell i guess. Sorry Sabum, dont mean to clutter your post. Hope you IC gets installed nice-nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 16, 2005 Share Posted April 16, 2005 eh... my nissan 5spd giving me a few problems now too, 3rd gear getting notchy, shifting when cold overall getting notchy as well. It's been deteriorating at a noticeable rate, too fast not to worry about... I dont usually abuse it, so I'm wondering if it's the relatively high amount of torque being just too much for it? I threw some Redline in it today which seems to have helped though not eliminated the problem, and will hopefully help keep it from getting worse too fast... don't even want to worry about swapping trannies right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sabum Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 I just finalized the auction for the greddy type S. I figure why take chances? Thanks for the advice on the BOV guys! Jersey /// I notice you did not use the cut stock black pipe from the turbo to the TB. How did yours connect? I like the clean look. Do you know what size reducer was needed. What about heat issues there? I am using 2 1/2 pipe. Also relating to the turbo inlet... I want to run 2 1/2 out to the AFM and shoot through the rad support with a K&N cone filter. I have a 280ZXturbo housing with earlier 77/78 guts. How did you connect the piping? It hard to see with the photos. Anyone have suggestions? Guys I wish you the best with the 5 speeds... I had to chuckle because I am going through the same thing with my T5. In fact I just bought a rebuild kit last week and talked a G force guy into doing a stock rebuild for $250 bucks. There is no way I would try to touch it for that. Thats me I am dropping it off this Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 I'm using the stock black J-pipe, cut, off the turbo outlet. I cut the one end (end closer to the throttle body) right where the weld was connecting the U bend section to the straight section. The the other end, the one that connects to the turbo, I cut as well, by 1 or 2 inches I forget now, and then ground the edge so it wouldn't shred the coupler. I found the pipe fits MUCH better shortened like this, before it came up too high (almost parallel to the intake manifold) and didn't allow a straight shot towards the hole in the radiator support. You will need a 2" to 2.5" reducer, the stock J-pipe is 2" in diameter. You'll need reducers for the AFM as well... AFM inlet/outlet are 3" I believe? jersey you're using the stock rubber boot between the AFM and turbo right? That's what I'm still using, anyways. I WISH I could find a place to rebuild my tranny for $250! lowest price I found including remove and reinstall was $700!! I know that a Z tranny comes out easily enough as to not add $450 of labor!! And no, I can't pull it myself no place to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 From what i remember, i had one end of a 2.5" 90deg pipe stretched to match the IC size then welded in a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer, then a 2.25" 90deg to the 280zxt TB. I didn't use any silicon reducers, just all straight pieces. I used a DSM boot to connect the T3 to the ZXT AFM (pic below) and then made a 3" pipe to route through the rad support out to the cone filter. Good luck with the T5 rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sabum Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 /// Jersey/// I am a little confused... I assume dsm (diamond star motors) Why 2 inlets? Wouldn't you just put a reducer on the turbo inlet say 2" to whatever your pipe size is then pipe it to the AFM... then out to the front.? Just wondering if I am missing something. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 ohhhh that's right I do remember you suggesting to me to switch to the 1g dsm boot. I had totally forgot about that... Would love to see some pics of how that looks installed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 The left side of the boot connects to the T3, the right side to the AFM (which gets it out and away from the motor) and the smaller hose connects to the BOV, if i want to recirculate it back. If i find a pic, i'll post it. May make it easier to understand. Not saying it's the right way, or the best, just the way i did it. On my cousins 280, we just used a short 3"rubber coupling to connect his T3/T4 to the AFM and then another 3" rubber coupling to connect to a cone filter which sits inside the engine bay. I'd like to change that someday because i'm sure the added heat from the bay getting sucked in from the filter doesn't help the T3/T4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Found an old pic from a couple of years back when i first dropped the turbo motor in and before i had an IC and a few other things. You can kinda see where that DSM (Diamond Star Motors) puts the AFM... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 cool thanks for the pic I'll have to take another look in my engine bay and see if it would be good there. I dunno if that'd be a good place for one reason, that's because I run the open filter on my crankcase vent and oil residue builds up in the area, on the stock rubber boot... dont think I'd want that all over my AFM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 jersey, I am a fellow jersey z'er and I will be doing a turbo swap this summer. As you seem to have done VERY well with your somewhat mild setup, I would like to talk with you or maybe ask for some help when I start and tune my swap. I have already talked with ragz and want to get a good group of guys together to keep me from blowing myself up. Plus, I really really want a ride in your car to know what I am getting myself into, as your car's performance is EXACTLY what I am looking for. -will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sabum Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 /// Jersey /// I do like that fit with that DSM boot. It looks lie is shoots the AFM right to the inner fender well just above the frame rail. I was thinking I should avoid the rubber if at all possible... What do you and the experts think? I could see where it might be a nice place to vent the Greddy S BOV into. Hell I still need to figure out if I need to vent the BOV back to the intake. I am running out of time because the welder said the fabrication on the IC is done, and he wants to set up a time sometime within the next few weeks. I am still wondering if I should use part of the j pipe on the inlet of the turbo? I was playing around with that part on one of my spare engines and the fit is tight I couldn't even get that black j pipe loosened up and I was affraid of using a hammer. So many decisions to make. tired of mumbling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Sabum Where in PA are you at? I am in Philly.. It would be nice to get a few more turbo guys around here to hang out with. Jersey and Zero, where in NJ are you? I work in S. Jersey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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