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clarification needed for Ford clutch master cylinder


Guest nwzeeman

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Guest nwzeeman

Hi Guys,

 

I've searched the older posts and it appears that the Ford F150 clutch master cylinder will work best with my t5 and camaro slave cylinder, rather than the tilton master cylinder. I am at the point of buying a new clutch master cylinder and was interested in feedback on this topic before I buy.

 

Can someone help me with what model years of the F150 master cylinder so I can take the info to the local auto parts store?

 

My understanding that the Ford hydraulic hose will work as well.

 

Is the ford clutch master cylinder a true bolt-in to the 280z firewall, or are mods required?

 

Thanks for any help. -ROd

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I used the Ford half ton pickup master cylinder. Sorry on year...mid eigthties...it fits center hole perfectly with rubber boot in place. One bolt hole has to be elongated outwards and one is perfect. The hose that goes with the MC also fits the slave on T5, even is about right length. It come with o rings and I think new roll pins. Pedal feel, release etc is fine...like factory wanted it to be. I misplaced the #s and in past I had emailed them to some members so perhaps one of them will respond. The thing is plastic and is probably filled with helium it is so light! Use caution routing hose as it too is plastic and attracted to headers. Price was very reasonable...maybe $80 range for both...the MC is probably a stocked item so you can carry your old one in to compare if nobody sends # in for us. Hope this helped...John

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Guest nwzeeman

I copied this post from an earlier thread, which had the part numbers...thanks to all for the help. -Rod

 

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Ok...I sent this to John in another post, but I thought I would list these part numbers in it's own topic for anyone that my need them. These are the part numbers for the 7/8" clutch master cylinder and hydralic hose that will connect right to the stock Camaro/Trans Am slave cylinders with no modifications. The only thing that has to be done to use this setup, is to knock out the top (master cylinder) mounting stud and drill another hole about 1/4" higher than the (stock) top hole. This isn't hard to do...just set the master cylinder up there, mark the new hole, and drill it. Actually, you will knock both mounting studs out, because the new master cylinder has it's own mounting studs included. But the main thing is there are NO modifications to the slave cylinder, NO fittings or adaptors to track down, and NO hose to be special made. Here are the part numbers...

 

---Master Cylinder Part Numbers---

BrakeWare - 12117

Bendix - 12117

Wagner - F110710

Raybestos - CMA39580

 

---Hydralic Hose Part Number---

Ford Motor Company - E3TZ7A512A

 

I'm not sure about the slave cylinders used with the T56 6-speed, but those of you with the T56 might want to look at one of these master cylinders next time you go to the local parts store to see if they will work for you also. The master cylinder that I listed above uses the "Non-Threaded" hose connection exactly like the slave cylinders used on mid-late '80s Camaros and Trans Ams. The hose that I listed above is long enough to connect the master and slave cylinders. The stock Camaro/Trans Am hose is not long enough. Hope this help some of you guys out.

 

Lee

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Is there a problem using the stock master cylinder? I was also thinking of using the method in the JTR book, and having a hydraulic shop make me a steel braided line that adapts from the stock Z master cylinder to the fittings you install on the slave. I guess the advantage to this is the strength in the line, but if it rests on the header I'm sure it will still leak!

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Guest nwzeeman

No concerns with the tilton cylinder. I had heard that the ford cylinder and hose were an easier connection to the camaro slave cylinder than using the setup shown in the JTR manual. Seems like a cleaner installation if all that is required is a new hole in the firewall. -Rod

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When i set up my 73 327/t-5 I used the stock camaro master, home made bracket and the stock camaro slave, a modified datsun brake boaster rod for the master, with a home made hose and it works well.

Getting ready to convert my 72 350/th-350 to a t-5 and think this would be a lot easier... I read the post twice and just have one question.

 

Is the stock datsun master rod used un-modified or modified? The ford f-150 rod?

thanks, bob

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Aha...the fly in the ointment...the Datsun and Ford MC rods are different and Datsun end doesn't fit Ford...I used Ford rod with a SINGLE Heim end at clutch arm I happened to have. I think a better solution is search out Ford compatible fork. If rod length is set too short you won't have enough travel after bleeding so it seems like the setup is not working...leave end attached to arm and adjust the rod....way easier than cutting hand to half size so it fits in openings down there. Long nose pliers worked for me. John

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Aha...I used Ford rod with a SINGLE Heim end at clutch arm I happened to have. I think a better solution is search out Ford compatible fork.

not sure but it sounds like you are talking about the slave rod? Not sure... I was asking about the master cylinder rod. Anyhow set me straight I think im confused :-)

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