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okay guys.. N/A SR, N/A RB26...


Guest ON3GO

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I completely agree w/ naplesZ. Use the VQ motor. There are a LOT more options for performance parts, and a whole lot more to come in the future. If you get used to the 300ishHP, you can bump it up to a 4.2 (or was it 4.3, whatever).

 

The MOST you'd get out of an N/A RB26 is going to be less than the stock VQ35 output, and for around half the price. In some cases, better engineering can be a replacement for displacement; however, there is no replacemet for better engineering AND displacement. That's what the VQ35 is to the RB26.

 

I think that you'd be disapointed w/ the N/A SR in there. I'm not sure how the F20 will do, but probably pretty well. I doubt that you're going to beat the high revving N/A sound of the S2000 motor, but it also depends on what type of sound you're going for.

 

I think that the VQ35 is better in that it will make more power than any other options listed, the fact that it is the most economically feasible, and that there are so many cars with these motors in them.

 

Or you could get creative and get the VQ40 that's in the truck (taller deck hight), and build that up. That motor will probably be harder to come by, but cool none the less.

 

Kenny

http://www.rbmotoring.com

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Have you considered a KA24DE? I know these are being thrown away in favor of the SR20DET by 240SX guys so you could probably get one very cheap. Not sure of the performance potential but it is a big 4 cylinder so it should have pretty good torque. It also has the aspect that it's the same displacement as the stock L6 that's in it now.

 

Just a thought.

 

Wheelman

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  • 5 weeks later...

Okay, here is what you will find. The SR16 or SR20VE will not work. I looked into these when I was putting the SR into my Roadster a few years back. The front drive SR engines WILL NOT bolt to a rear drive tranny. While they are both technically called SR, the rear drive is substantially different from the front drive. You could attempt a head swap, but here are a few things to keep in mind. Even if you got around the jacked up distributor location, you would have the pair of solenoids hanging off the back side of the head. These are what actuate the cam change. You would end up having to cut a hole in the firewall or something. I actually bought an SR16VE when I bought the SR20det. I sat them side by side and checked all the possible combinations I could come up with. In the end, I sold the SR16 to a Sentra guy.

On to the RB. I doubt any else knows, but Nissan actually made an N/A RB26 powered four door R32 Skyline. I recently learned about this when I bought a Japanese DVD on the history of the Skyline. There, in a special museum of Skylines was this pristine Gunmetal 4 door. I'm not sure of the models exact designation, it may have been some special edition that Nissan often does. This one had the same valve covers and plenum but had a beautiful equal length tuned header. The exhaust had the most amazing note to it. I think that had the engine had the throttle body injection as suggested earlier it would have been perfect. I have seen several RB engines run on these, usually on an RB25 swapped into an S30 or early Skyline. I think you would be lucky to get a good 200hp out of this set up at best. I would suggest you go with the RB25 instead of the RB26, simply because you can get the N/A RB25 which will have more power than an RB26 stripped of it's turbos. Not to mention these motors can be had for under $1000 easily.

As for the FJ20; it is a spectacular engine. The torque is unbelievable for an N/A four banger. This is the motor I had in my Roadster before I swapped in the SR20. I had twin Solex carbs and an open exhaust that sounded great. Here is the problem; simply put parts are nearly impossible to get now. Australia still has some to offer, but they are not cheap. I had three motors, two simply as spare parts. If you can't get one that already has a carb manifold, pass on it. The engine was only F.I. from the factory and the carb manifolds were aftermarket only. These are the hardest parts to find. Manifolds alone can run $800 these days. I eventually decided to sell my FJ's while they were still in good condition and swap in the SR20. Don't get me wrong, the I loved the FJ, it just came down to overhaul issues.

Brian

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There is an RB26DE that exist, numbers are few and only seen one of these engines for sale on an auction site. I think it would be good I deal if more power could be exacted from this type of setup and it may sound better than an L, WHO KNOWS. I have considered this setup myself and have some literature on it. The best street HP output I've found was 226. However, it is refreshing to see someone doing something out of the box.

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That 510 is Hella impressive. Nismo H-beam Rods, solid lash kit, Nismo N2 304 degree cams, and HKS valve springs. Also the direct ignition from the turbo model. I'm assuming it has the pulsar N1 or N2 package head. The titanium retainers alone are $30/ea. The cost adds up.

 

I really don't think there's a point in doing the N/A SR swap. Unless you're going to spend thousands of dollars. . . but wait, If you're going to spend that much $$$, why not spend that much on the L, and be faster. It's cool in the 510 and other small cars to swap a N/A 4 cylinder, but I don't think it's worth it.

 

The only way that it makes sense is if you get the RB26 long block w/ no turbo or anything like that.

 

We've never done an NA RB26. I think it'd be interesting to do. I guarantee it won't be cheap, but I'd love to help you out if you need.

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  • 2 weeks later...

NA....you know I actually prefer NA motors over the turbo types. I just like the way they feel. ON3GO, I applaud your desire to use a rare and modern motor for this project. That's awesome. Sometimes you want a simple, fun road car. You know..."fast" is relative, "fun" is ALWAYS where it's at.

 

A RB with ITB or carbs would be great...I see it all the time in Nostalgic Hero, and autoworks old car magazine.

 

SR (NA) is great too. But the problem with these motors is the torque and powerband. Maybe this would suit your needs, maybe not.

 

How about a VQ30DE? There is someone on Freshalloy doing this swap into his S14. He's using a Z33 6speed mission. Very nice. I love the way those motors feel...so smooth. Maybe that would suit. I'm sure it would be relatively cheap for the motor, the trans....well, good luck with that one. I'm sure there's enough young, spoiled, 350Z driving teenagers that are going to make our junkyard shopping trips very interesting.....

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Guest ON3GO

wow, cant believe this thread is still going.

 

i desided to put this project on hold for a few months.

ill be getting back to florida i hope in march of 2006, and then ill start putting my garage together for a nice build.

 

The Blue Z i have now is gonna stay L28ET but fully built and etc.

The Hulk Z is hush hush right now.

 

Once i move back im thinking of doing a N/A motor, just not sure what. will be strictly for road racing. If i can find a RB26 for cheap enough ill do a N/A ITB RB26DE, if not then im not sure what.

 

ill be starting a Porsche 912 project then too, gotta find a place to store it right now.

 

mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd go with the rb30de combo. I've always thought a high comp, valocity stacks, tuned extractors and dohc N/A rb of any type would sound absolutly amazing. I'd go for the extra cubic inches for the power though maybe even stroke and bore the rb30. I also want to do this build for a 240z in a few years

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  • 2 months later...

I was going to post about this earlier, but completely forgot.

 

As someone said on this thread earlier, there was an NA version of the RB26. It was in the R32 Autech version. It came w/ a slightly smaller intake mani for better response (it retained the ITBs), different cams, pistons, and a stainless EX mani (several other differences, but I can't remember off the top of my head)

 

All of the NA GTRs came in dark green (almost black) w/ matching camcovers. I believe the HP was somewhere b/w 220~230. A hair over the GTS-t.

 

Like I said before, It's a cool idea to go w/ an NA RB26, but unless you get one like this one that's already NA, you're going to spend a LOT of $$$ getting it to run right.

 

Kenny

http://www.rbmotoring.com

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  • 3 weeks later...

If your looking more NA sr20. The AWD SR20det from the GTIR came stock with ITB's and you may be able to bolt those onto a NA rwd sr20. Also would the NA rwd sr20 5spd trannies have a better gear ratio then say a DET being that it would be NA and more like a short ratio to use the power better or are they the same or is the strenght the same too? This has me thinking now...

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