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Tell me if I have this right


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It seems I have read every thread on this website, but with my limited knowledge of conversions, as well as, REAL auto repair; I believe I have finally defined a realistic goal for my son and I. However, it might make sense to see if someone that has ALREADY COMPLETED all of what we will be trying to accomplish, would "bless", via a reply here, all of my decisions listed in this thread/forum.

 

The car I want to build for my son is an outrageous looking 1978Z (big flares, etc.), daily driver with a basically stock carbed chevy (simple) small block with only a "sixtys" sounding (bumpity bumpity) cam with flowmasters, A/C and an automatic.

 

Is the following correct?

1) We live in Florida so except for the gas mileage we will be losing, we really don't need the fuel injection with sensors, computers, wiring, etc.

2) If we prefer an automatic and also because of the carb, I should use a computerized 700 four speed automatic to help in the pursuit of gas mileage we've already lost rather than the three speed non computerized automatic

3) I should use the JTR install kit for simplicity

4) I need a large size radiator (rather than thick) with a ford Taurus 2-speed fan, as well as, two small fans in the fender wells to pull the hot air out, in addition to some actual hood vents.

5) Shorty headers are the easiest and can be purchased for this conversion

6) I will need to convert, throttle, speedo, and a few other misc items

7) I will need a new driveshaft and it has to be at proper angle and balanced

8) The stock 1978 280z rear end will be suitable if we don't hot rod around too much

9) All the stock front suspension, struts, brakes, etc arre suitable

10) All the stock rear suspension, struts, brakes, etc are suitable

11) I want power steering. I put Mustang II power rack & pinion steering on my old Z. Is there a better/easier conversion for a 1978 280z?

12) The factory a/c system (interior) will work with the chevy a/c parts required in the engine bay if I have special hoses made

13) I need to improve the windshield wiper speed on any 280 Z

14) Later, ZX power mirrors will adapt to the door of the 280 and provide the right angle needed as far as cosmetics go

15) What is the easiest way to do power windows and locks on the 78 280z?

16) What is the easiest bolt on rear disc brake conversion on the 78 280z?

17) I need to have the conversion work finished before the body work (assuming it is not in the engine bay, etc

 

OK, so I need advice for sure on the three questions, #11, 15, & 16; but can anyone tell me that I am pretty much in the ballpark as far as my goal is concerned. I have already purchased a 78 280Z project car

 

Thanks, in advance for anybody's help

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It seems I have read every thread on this website' date=' but with my limited knowledge of conversions, as well as, REAL auto repair; I believe I have finally defined a realistic goal for my son and I. However, it might make sense to see if someone that has ALREADY COMPLETED all of what we will be trying to accomplish, would "bless", via a reply here, all of my decisions listed in this thread/forum.

 

The car I want to build for my son is an outrageous looking 1978Z (big flares, etc.), daily driver with a basically stock carbed chevy (simple) small block with only a "sixtys" sounding (bumpity bumpity) cam with flowmasters, A/C and an automatic.

 

Is the following correct?

1) We live in Florida so except for the gas mileage we will be losing, we really don't need the fuel injection with sensors, computers, wiring, etc.[/quote']

 

Nice to have, but does complicate the conversion a little.

 

2) If we prefer an automatic and also because of the carb, I should use a computerized 700 four speed automatic to help in the pursuit of gas mileage we've already lost rather than the three speed non computerized automatic

700R4, and 200 4R are non computerized 4 speed autos. Look here: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com

 

3) I should use the JTR install kit for simplicity

Yes

 

4) I need a large size radiator (rather than thick) with a ford Taurus 2-speed fan, as well as, two small fans in the fender wells to pull the hot air out, in addition to some actual hood vents.

Larger radiator will help, but from what I hear, not necessary. The JTR manual recommends the 4 cyl camaro plastic/aluminum one which I used with the LT1....more than adequate, or an after market aluminum one will do.

 

5) Shorty headers are the easiest and can be purchased for this conversion

Yes

 

6) I will need to convert, throttle, speedo, and a few other misc items

7) I will need a new driveshaft and it has to be at proper angle and balanced

8) The stock 1978 280z rear end will be suitable if we don't hot rod around too much

Yes

 

9) All the stock front suspension, struts, brakes, etc arre suitable

10) All the stock rear suspension, struts, brakes, etc are suitable

yes

 

11) I want power steering. I put Mustang II power rack & pinion steering on my old Z. Is there a better/easier conversion for a 1978 280z?

Some have used the Miata or WRX units

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Start with the JTR manual its will pay for its self many times over. Read it 3 or 4 times and then I think you will have a good idea of what you will need and want. He makes it easy for the first timer.But you seem to be on the right track . And you don't want a computer controled trany just a 700 R4.

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11) I want power steering. I put Mustang II power rack & pinion steering on my old Z. Is there a better/easier conversion for a 1978 280z?

 

alsil did the only successful Mustang power rack swap WITH a decent amount of information in documenting what he did. Some of the information is here in the site, the rest is (was?) on his website, but I don't remember the url. There are some threads with info on the WRX unit or Miata units (Tim is correct) here, but I don't know if you'll find anything super-detailed.

 

The main issue with the power racks is that they are 1 to 2 inches too wide on one end. They'll bolt up just fine in most cases (WRX, Miata, and even RX7 gen III) look like they will since they appear to have the same mounting provisions, but the geometry of the ends will be off. This would mostly hurt when your suspension goes up and down while cornering, but I have not gone beyond just thinking about it. Terry O (Blueovall Z) or JohnC may have some good thoughts on that.

 

Davy

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First off , thanks for this input,

 

For some reason, I assumed all of the 700 transmissions were computerized. I do not want any computers on this car, so to learn that there are 4-speed non-computerized transmissions is great news. Embarrassing that I did not know that. I now understand that 1992 back were the non-computerized GM four speed autos. I just have to worry about the shifting timing and the kick-down.

 

My project car came with the JTR manual which, when it gets here, I will follow without fail.

 

Although I am going to upgrade some of the suspension parts, it is good to know I am starting off in a safe place with the stock parts and can just go up from there without much hotrodding or unique fabrication.

 

I have inside acess to a great driveshaft company here in Orlando.

 

I am feeling much more confident now and am only worried about the little things like the mirrors, windows, etc, of which can be a headache, but I am more qualified.

 

Thanks,

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Instead of auto I would prefer 5sp' date=' or even 6sp!!!, This would keep things much easier....and more fun as well

 

Damon[/quote']

 

A 5 or 6 speed does not mean it's easier. You are then required to swap out the master cylinder and figure out how to hook it to whatever slave the tranny uses. It can be a frustrating thing to get working.

 

An auto is easier IMHO, just get an aftermarket shifter, mount it, hook up the cable and delete the clutch pedal if there is one and off you go.

 

I went the T5 route and have had a bit of a hassle getting the Wilwood master cylinder I'm using to fully disengage the clutch. I got it working but had to cut the clutch pedal stop from the floor of the car to do it. I guess I should have gone with a Tilton 7/8" rather than the Wilwood 3/4".

 

The JTR manual says a 3/4" will work with the Camaro slave but neglects to say that you have to remove that stop on the floor to get enough travel.

 

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread!!!

 

Wheelman

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16) What is the easiest bolt on rear disc brake conversion on the 78 280z?

 

Thanks' date=' in advance for anybody's help[/quote']

 

http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html

 

Here yall go. You will be suprised. This whole conversion was actually pretty simple. The only reason I have had problems is because I am picky and keep wanting more and more (fabbing up single turbo and there is hardly any room with the V8 )

 

Oh and there was another rear disk conversion that was about half the price, and i have it book marked on the other computer. I will post it when i get the chance.

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Another quite simple rear disk conversion is Modern Motorsport's 240sx kit. The MM kit has the advantage of stock type calipers and a mechanical parking brake. The Arizonia Z car rear brakes are a good match for their big front brake kit, but they might have too much braking force for anything less.

 

Don't have links handy but do a search on 240sx rear disk or Modern Motorport and you will find one.

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