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L28 Stainless Valves, cheap on Ebay.


preith

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Anyone know off hand which heads these suit? IIRC the P90 valves are shorter then earlier heads. His ad states these are 4.62" overall which doesn't work out to a very nice mm dimension.

 

I never seem to have things I need to check measurements on to hand these days, dunno what's going on!!

 

Cheers,

Rob

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I bought a set. They seem decent, but the exhaust is oversized by 3mm. They are the longer non-p90 length. Not sure if they are worth the trouble of fitting new seats and extra machine work.

 

There has been other posts about clearance issues and running the 38mm valves as opposed to the 35's. I've never used 38's, but I guess you can get away with recutting the the stock seat, but the valves have a tendency to interfere with the cylinder walls, they have to be notched.

 

EDIT: Also, I ordered a set and will let you guys know how they are.

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Hey guys,

 

I bought the first set to come up for bid.

 

Will fit the N42 and earlier heads or the shaved P90 with Shims (.080).

Nicely tapered under the head. I compared against stock replacement valves @ 10 - 12 dollars a piece on Victoria British and went for them.

 

They do require the exhaust seat to be recut for the larger valve.

 

I am also told, that they will not increase flow significantly without some pocket porting, i.e.: valve bowl cleanup.

 

Washington State.

 

Here is the response I got to my questions prior to purchase.

 

Who Made them, I can't find EPN on the Web?

 

"EPN is my company, Engine Parts Network, inc. We have manufacturers produce for us to our spec.

 

Our valve supplier is BBB, they are located in Argentina. They are a pure manufacturer which means they have no house brand, they make Milodon, some Ferrea, Qualfast, and many others.

 

Ted(engnbldr)" (Ted Stanwood)

 

I noticed that the valve length differs from that in the manual?

 

"Different manufacturers measure differently of course. Some from the expected point of seat contact, some use actual OAL, some measure from the inside of the dimple.

 

These are simply stock OAL to make it easy, my spec sheet says 4.57" & 4.62".

 

I had quite a few folks ask me for them when we started producing the Toyota 20R & 22R valves, so I had a couple thousand made to see what happens."

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Yes, he does still sell them. I am building/porting/machining “preiths” head right now and installing those valves. I even ordered another set for another Maxima N-47 project from them earlier this week, delivered NEXT day as they are just across town from me.

 

 

 

As a side note, for you guys running up to 2mm over bores on your L-28 blocks, that 38mm exhaust valve WILL crash into your block! In mocking up Phils head on a block, those 38mm exhaust valves hit the block deck at only .340”-.350” lift.

Options are to either have the exhaust valve turned down to a smaller diameter, or extensively “eye-brow” the block. Depending on how much lift your cam has and how far up the bore your rings sweep, will dictate if that is even feasible. Typically, Turbo pistons have the ring pack further down the piston which allows for little deeper eye-browing as compared to N/A pistons. For Phils head, I turned the heads of the exhaust valves down 2mm to 1.42” This will clear a 1mm over bore L-28 and leave just enough clearance to make up for any shift that may happen between deck dowels and the head as they will shift up to 1mm and that also keeps the head builder from sweating bullets when the owner turns the key to “start” for the first time….

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My machinist was impressed with the quality of these valves. But he wasn't impressed with my research, since I bought these for my 2.4 block-oopps(i'm just a back yard mech). Needless to say we had some clearance issues so we wound up turning down the the head to a 35 and notching the block.There is no way they would have gone in my 2.4. I also bought the guides from the same guy and again my machinist liked the concentricities of the guides.

As far as seats go, he made his own ber.copper to match the valves!

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Here's an auction from what I beleive was the same vendor I originally bought them from.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-L20B-O-S-STAINLESS-VALVES-w-bronze-guides_W0QQitemZ8035512819QQcategoryZ33621QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

He's in Ohio, but per a previous post, they're available from a place in Portland

http://www.engnbldr.com/

 

As Braap (Paul) eluded to, he's working on installing these on a cyl. head for me. I opted for having him turn them down just a bit, so this way I don't have to worry about notching the block; the .560 lift cam makes this more difficult. They'll still be slightly larger than stock too. I don't want to give too much away, but the completed head will be quite nice....

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Norm, you are eluding to valve shrouding? Yes eye-browing the block/unshrouding the valves “in the block” is worth just a little bit in terms of air flow, but the gain realized in doing that is really minuscule and that would only be on the super serious crazy engines. The camber walls in the head as you already know, is the where the biggest restriction to air flow lies, (valve shrouding), therefore that is where we focus our efforts, then we get crazy in those square exhaust ports…

Pictures to follow in the next couple days or so…

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