Pharaohabq Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Looks good! Sounds nice too. I'm impressed, but that's not so hard to do with me I like that bottle trick on the Radiator Fill nozzle, I wonder if that'll work for the VQ35 engines. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Looks good! Sounds nice too. I'm impressed, but that's not so hard to do with me I like that bottle trick on the Radiator Fill nozzle, I wonder if that'll work for the VQ35 engines. Phar LOL thanks. It might work with a vq35... however, when it reaches operating temperature and hot coolant overflows the filler neck the bottle begins to turn really soft. lol. it's a good temporary trick. but in hindsight I should have removed it when not in use. Also, you gotta wrap the cap-threads in electrical tape for a good seal. LOL. GHETTO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Like it, very neat and growly, good work I'd get a 33 to play around with but decent ones are too expensive in my part of the world, besides the VG30DET takes all my spare money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 no longer growly.... i put the exhaust on today. LOL. still sounds like it's leaking a slow bit... but I'm not concerned. going to replace it sometime soon any how. glad there's no oil though. those moly rings seated pretty quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 put roughly 400 km on her now. still running strong. feels like it has just as much torque/hp at 0psi (waste gate actuator is tied open for engine break in period) as a VG30ET does with stock 7psi or so of boost. My transmission likes to yell at me and my alternator belt sounds like I'm trying to skin a cat at 3 in the morning when I'm parking her. engine feels like it's giving off excess heat, but the only heat shields I put on are the ones to protect the brake booster. The temp gauge is fully operational and since I've slotted and pinned the taurus fan blades to the motor the temp gauge has not went passed half, because the Racinjitter radiator special that I have has kept it nice and cool. I wanna take some video to compare 0 boost to 7 psi. I'm going to be changing oil sometime this week/weekend. I gotta find a spare rear subframe to install subframe spacers into and clean up so that I can swap them in directly once I remove the rear subframe from my car. If I can get all the parts within the next couple of weeks, I can have it all in over a weekend and before it starts to rain every day. Torque monster!!!!!! I yell "TORQUEEEEEEEEE" when i drive. i really do. Raff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest serge Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Hi, I live in Colombia, my parents just got their hands on a '02 pathfinder with a VG33, nice engine if your cruising at 50mph, roads around here, well you don't actually do 50... it's more like 80-120... engine seems pretty stable so far. But the real problem is mpg, made a record of my road consumption cruising at 50 mph and it's making an average of 16-16.7 miles to the gallon, which is not that good. I heard that if I installed either a supercharger or a turbocharger it would increase engine's HP and Torque and mpg would increase at cruising speeds of 50-60... What I need to know, since I've been put on the task of improving the SUV's mpg, is what I need to have in mind for installing a turbo or supercharger, and if you know of any "plug and play" kit so I don't have to make that many mechanical changes on the car... It seems that I will also need to look for a data cable and reprogramming software since the closest place where I can have the car's computer reprogrammed is about 700 miles away... I don't dare to install an ECU... don't have any experience with fuel injection but I consider myself a good computer programmer... So if there's any kind of "have in mind checklist" would be nice to have before I screw this engine... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Nissan made a VG33ER, which is the VG33E with a Eaton M62. Ring around some US junkyards and get the SC, front pulley, intake plenum and piping, and ECU and it should be a simple bolt up exercise replacing the NA bits with factory SC bits. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103412 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130066 use the search button and theres plenty of info around on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Ok. Updating this thread. just finished putting power steering onto my VG33ET finally. This post was transfered from the Z31Performance forum, so some things may sound weird or refer to "other threads". So here's what has to be done. NO coolant pipe mods. I just had a broken bolt in the alternator bracket so I used a VG30ET exhaust manifold washer to keep the bolt out about 3 or 4mm from the alternator bracket. The coolant pipe goes on exactly as it would on the Z31 with VG30ET. Infact, every coolant pipe does. For the heater cores, etc. etc... So this means the ONLY thing one must do to get the VG33 to go RIGHT into a Z31 with VG30ET parts is to use all z31 parts where you can: water pump and pulley oil pan (slightly modified) pickup tube slightly modified upper intake lower intake thermo housing and piping lower coolant pipe upper timing cover (may not be neccessary) exhaust manifolds power steering head mount power steering adjustment bracket alternator block-mount alternator adjustment bracket with z31 mounting bolt and 1 inch (or so) spacer to line the bracket up with the alternator. turbo parts and oil lines (check for oil feed once you remove the plug) flywheel, clutch, etc. The Quest/VG33 parts I used are: Cylinder Heads (can use z31 heads, but vg33's have better port design and manifold studs are larger). Connecting Rods (same as z31 W-series) Pistons Engine Block Crank & Crank Pulley Oil Pump with VG33 Pathfinder Oil Filter Adapter Retained the Block Heater element and the Knock Sensor in the cylinder valley to use as plugs. modifications to the power steering pump are as follows: grind just about 3/8ths of an inch off the top pump mounting hole where the head-mounted bracket receives the bolt to hold/swivel the pump. (see pic in previous post with detailed close-ups) put a 3/8ths worth of washers or a spacer... one behind the pump where the mounting bolt goes through to push it forward, and one behind the adjustment bracket to line it up with the pump. take a 4 Rib 420 to 430 size belt length, and use a new exacto blade to cut one rib off the entire circumference of the belt. If you do it carefully you can barely tell it has been done (and consequently, you can perhaps return it without them knowing if you use a belt that's too long the first time around, like i did). I recommend going with a 420 belt rather than the 430 I have. This will allow you to tension the belt properly and have thread on the adjustment rod left over. I am maxed out on the adjustment rod, so I can see myself getting a new belt when this one starts squeeling. I have about two or 3 turns of the adjustment rod nut before it's not going any further. ALSO, one last note... when trying belts, remember that you MUST remove the bolt that goes through the adjustment bracket and bolts into the adjustment rod, or it will touch the coolant pipe (now that the entire power steering adjustment assembly has been moved forward). If you remove the bolt, it will swing behind the coolant pipe, then you can push the belt on and then push the pump back and have someone hold the pump up tight or block it with some wood or a wedge of somesort so you can use both hands to put the bolt back through the adjustment rod (which should now clear the lower coolant pipe). It's very hard to select a belt that's too small because it will either not fit right, or you are pushing too hard on the pump to get it on tight, and thus, it will be putting stress on the line going from the reservoir to the back of the pump. DO NOT force it or remove it to find a smaller belt, as you would never be able to thread the adjustment rod bolt back in and tighten it properly to avoid the belt from coming loose. DO NOT mess this up. Flying belts can cut your lower or upper hoses or slash them to the point where pressure will kill them off when you start getting a lot of heat through the block and generate a lot of pressure in the cooling system. Get it right, and it will work. So far so good. I'll update as time passes. (and don't rag on me for cutting a rib off the belt, they do not make 3 rib belts that are longer than 390 or so I've been told... or I can't find them. and cutting the belt was something I was weary of, but after doing it... it looks just like any other machine would have cut it anyways... so to you if you'ze a hater! I GOTS POWER STEERING. WOOT WOOT) SOOOOO that brings an end to my accessory mounting and VG33ET stock-fitment build up using the Quest crank & pulley unless I decide to add Air Conditioning back into the mix. Essentially it's no more difficult than a NA2T conversion if you choose to go that far, and these engines are much more available nowadays in my location rather than the NA or VG-T engines that our cars came with. So to recap. The deepest you need to go into this engine is manifolds, timing belt/waterpump, and oil-pickup and pan. Thanks to everyone for your input and patience, and let me know if you have any questions. 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