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Z32 300ZX SR20DET Engine Mount question


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Guest ivanqz

dts300z Did you have to cut in to the firewall at all? Also, did you have enough clearence to run the stck fan? or did you have to get electric fans.

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Depending on the OP's 300ZX year, a LT1 could be smog legal in CA. . . just have to do the swap right.

 

Unless he can register in a non-smog county . . .

 

If your address is above 3000ft sea level in California there is no smog restrictions. But you don't happen to have a cabin in Mammoth or Big Bear do you? Hehe.

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If your address is above 3000ft sea level in California there is no smog restrictions. But you don't happen to have a cabin in Mammoth or Big Bear do you? Hehe.

You serious???? I live at ~3500 ft!!!

 

Maybe there is an upside to living on the side of a mountain range!!

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Is ther any way you could corner weight the car the way it is now with the SR20 in it? Pleeeeeeeeeeease........Really, I have to know for sure if this weight is possible. iI also heard from other people that this swap is common in Japan. Z32 N/A no T-tops + SR20DET.

I wish it was still running and I would. I pulled the engine last night and did not see this post until now. I was talking with a good friend of mine earlier whom corner scaled the car with the sr in it and he seemed to remember it was close to a 45% rear and 55% front weight distribution. It was 2750lbs no driver and a half tank...etc.. Like I said though I will weigh the car with the lt1 swap and take pictures so you guys can see. Although it might be even lighter considering I won't have all the a/c and heat etc... on the car. But I can't see it being lighter than 2750 like it was with the sr. Maybe 2800 or so.. Trust me the weight is possible with a SLICK TOP! Sorry have to stress the slick top part.. If you put some time into weight loss on the car and got rid of all the sound deadening material and such I could foresee another 50lbs or so lighter, if it is that important to you...

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dts300z Did you have to cut in to the firewall at all? Also, did you have enough clearence to run the stck fan? or did you have to get electric fans.

 

I ran electric fans! I did not even try to run the stock one, but there is decent clearence, so you might be able too.

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Yea, the slick top alone will gain you at least 20-70 pounds or do (depending on how much reinforcement goes into the window system). Plus it's more rigid. I'd looked for quite some time for a slick top 280ZX when I bought my second, but just couldn't find one soon enough.

 

Then there's the spare, and jack. That's quite a bit of weight as well.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say that in order for you to be at the weight you're at (not calling BS at all man, I'm just trying to figure out either were the weight went or where in the world you started) I'd guess you started around 3200. Knock it down to 3000 by pulling all unnecessary weight out, then knock it down to 2850 for the motor swap. I guess that KINDA makes sense, but I've love to weigh all the pieces.

 

It seems to me the slick top is one light chassis compared to the rest of the Z32's, and the slick tops aren't necessarily everywhere, or easy to come by.

 

Yall probably need to find a stock slick top and weigh it. I promiss you that the vg30 is alot heavier than people think!!! and you can quote me on that!!!

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I'm still wondering how light a gutted slick top 280ZX would weight... With another motor that car should have just as much track potential as some of the S30's on this board (i'd imagine it's possibly to get caged track car under 2800 if the motor is light enough)

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I thought about making a few mount kits and do like a subframe exchange if anyone was interested! Maybe a complete hardware kit that would include motor mounts that would work with the factory sr mounts, tranny mount, drive shaft, possibly a reworked shifter. I'm not sure there will be enough demand for mass production but for those interested I would consider making a jig and selling a few sets. Just a thought!!

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I'm going to make the jigs this weekend! I'll put together a kit and pricing and as soon as I figure it out I'll post it up along with pictures. Everthing will be waterjet cut and tig welded for those interested. The package will also include a steel driveshaft, and other hardware needed for install. All whom want to be ginny pigs let me know and I'll cut a group deal for the first 5-10 kits if that many even sell...

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Guest ivanqz
I'm going to make the jigs this weekend! I'll put together a kit and pricing and as soon as I figure it out I'll post it up along with pictures. Everthing will be waterjet cut and tig welded for those interested. The package will also include a steel driveshaft, and other hardware needed for install. All whom want to be ginny pigs let me know and I'll cut a group deal for the first 5-10 kits if that many even sell...

 

Sign me up!

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Here is a link to pics of my car.

I have been building it for over a year now.

I travel for a living so i only have about 3-4 days a month to work on her.

I am doing a complete overhaul to the body and and building the Car for Drag. NHRA Sport RWD. I expect over 800HP and should see low 9's with the Z32 5speed.

Swap is already done, just waiting on body work to be completed.

 

http://www.drag240sx.com/plug-e-gallery-f-55.html

 

If you all are wondering why I went the SR route i will be more than happy to explain. But with me racing only 1 specific class, we have to stick to same manufacturer. So with all my other Nissan options I would be happy to say why i went the SR route...

 

Good luck to anyone else trying the swap..

It was very easy for me and i would recommend it to anyone else.

 

Danny

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Guest ivanqz
Here is a link to pics of my car.

I have been building it for over a year now.

I travel for a living so i only have about 3-4 days a month to work on her.

I am doing a complete overhaul to the body and and building the Car for Drag. NHRA Sport RWD. I expect over 800HP and should see low 9's with the Z32 5speed.

Swap is already done, just waiting on body work to be completed.

 

http://www.drag240sx.com/plug-e-gallery-f-55.html

 

If you all are wondering why I went the SR route i will be more than happy to explain. But with me racing only 1 specific class, we have to stick to same manufacturer. So with all my other Nissan options I would be happy to say why i went the SR route...

 

Good luck to anyone else trying the swap..

It was very easy for me and i would recommend it to anyone else.

 

Danny

 

 

That is impresive, It reminds me of an article on a magazine 5 or 7 years ago of a Japanese drag Z32 with an SR20. I think the numbers were 600 HP and maybe 8 sec 1/4 mile. Don't quote me on this I'ts been a long time. And that is how long I've been thinking about this. At the time the price of a NA Z32 was still too much. I recently found a hard top for 3k but it had some front damage so I had to pass.

 

I got my brother on board with this project. So now we sre looking at 2 cars. One for road race which we will do first and a street car for me. This is going to be a 2 or 3 year process, no biggie.

 

Danny, have you looked into a SR20VE head? Basically Vtec for nissans. That is what I got. PM me for more info.

 

And yes please tell us all reasons you went this route. I'll pm you with my email.

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First off, I have been building Z32's for over 6 years now. So i have some experience with them ;). I have done simple stuff from Stock motor rebuilds to Full Builds/ Internals GT2530's to make a 500+whp Z. But never anything more extreame than that...

I did design a Single turbo Kit for the VG30DETT but never emplimented it. in the middle of building it on the Car i made the decision to change the motor.. So i have no proof that it would have worked perfect. but i did like the idea's i had.

 

But on my resume I have assist building a 1300+ supra and 3 800+ Honda's. If you follow any racing at all you have seen or heard of our Utah Cars Tearing it up at IDRC, NHRA, NOPI on the West Coast..

Our Fastest Honda Just wend 9.50@156 last weekend at Nopi. and the Supra Has gone 8.8@167.. These are full interior cars might i add, not gutted.. Just simple saftey features that are required and they are also manual Tranny's...

We have a Race at Palmdale this weekend. IDRC...

 

Now on to my Ride..

First off, remember i said that i am building this car for Mostly Drag only.. it will see a highway every now and then.. but at the same time in my class i have to have License plates and be registered. I have to have full interior and all the required stuff on the Car that would have to Pass Saftey in any state.

Now in NHRA to race in Sport RWD you have to stick with same motor manufacturer as chassis. So that left me with Nissan. NO problems there we have plenty of amazing motors availible.

Now with that being said for amazing power i could have went with the RB or even the VG. But with a 6 cylinder you have to have minumum weight of 3600lbs with 1 power adder and 3700lbs with two power adders.

a 4 cylinder has to weigh 2900lbs with 1, and 3000lbs with 2.

1 power adder being a turbo, and 2 being turbo/Nitrous.

Second was the fact that the RB can make crazy power in the 1000+ range but parts are not as easy to come by if i start breaking stuff often at that power. along with the price of everything and 6 of everything to buy.

Now on to the VG. WE all love the motor. it is the heart of the Z. I know it inside and out so i am comfident in all my knowledge and theory's and thinkings of the motor. Also i have talked with Teams like Escort Z who build the 1200+_ 7.1@192+ drag Z with the VG...

It can make crazy power But again you have to buy 6 of everything and Escort told me on there car that once they started breaking 900+ hp they were going through main bearing like butter. at 1200+hp they had to change them every race.. That's 7 passes on a motor.

So with that being said if i could get 1100 out of the VG i would have 1100+3600lbs=fast

Now on to the SR.

They are Everywhere, They are cheap, Parts are cheap, Parts are readily availible for it. I only have to buy 4 of everything.

I did the weight comparison and the SR is 250lbs lighter then the VG. now that is fully loaded. Turbo's and all on both motors.

So with drag racing 250lbs off the front of the car equals a lot better weight transfer.

With my experience from our honda's i don't see why i can't get 800+ on the SR with boost alone and maybe a little more with spray. I know a SR head does not compair to the Honda head, but just trust me on this one.

so 800+2900lbs=faster.

 

Now onto my setup. Like i said the car is not put together right now due to a complete overhaul on the body.

But i have

 

GT4294R

AEM

1600CC injectors

12x24x4.5 IC/Vband ends

4" DP

Tial 44mm WG

Tial 50mm BOV

Weldon FP/FPR

Tilton Twin plate

Richmond 4.10 Gears/Rear

Custom Intake Mani.

Z32 5speed Tranny

 

Im sure there's more but that the basics.

 

As for the Questions.. I have heard of the VE head, but as far as i know its for the FWD motors only.. If there is a secret to addapt it to the RWD block i would love to know it.. But with that being said I am running the Tomei 280 cams and i have never heard of a company making huge cams for the VE head?

 

Thanks for the compliments and I hope to learn a lot more from the people on here. I am always willing to listen and learn to what others have to say.

 

Danny

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funny you should say that, read my sig closer. :-D

 

and check out these threads

VVL to DE port comparison

 

the VVL head flows better than the standard DE or DET

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=162336 same mod would be performed for a rwd VE

 

you need a custom intake manifold [i cut the plenum off mine, and am making my own. cant weld it yet because i need a 50amp circuit, but that'll change soon.]

 

I you want the engine close to the firewall you either need to notch the firewall for the vvl solenoids and dizzy, or run a standalone that doesn't need the dizzy,[ ie megasquirt n EDIS... or what have you...] and get some plates machined to relocate the solenoids [this is what i'm doing, long process...lazy machinist

 

and for cams.. theres 2 companies that make them, but people have been too cheap to buy them/ and they're not satisfied with the testing that went into making them. most people run sr16ve or sr16ve N1 cams, but thats for NA. People who boost VVL's usually use sr20ve cams

 

VVVdig around here and do a search for kelford cams and franklin camsVVV

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=41

 

search around and check out the stickies, lots of good info.

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