Miles Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 I have a question to see if anyone ran into this problem with the brake swap. after I complete the swap and when I blead the brakes I notice the 240sx real calipers would leak brake fluid either on the right or left side. I even took that back to Napa and got another pair of new ones and it would still happen. Once i adjusted the proportion value it didnt it not more but it seems my front brakes dont stop on a dime they work but dont grip hard enough. Now I did rellize I have to change my brake booster cause it seemed that when I brake my engine drops idle real low. Now if the booster having a valcume leak would theat effect my brakes gripping hard enough? any one have any input? http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/skerge20/IMG_0239.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/skerge20/IMG_0239.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/skerge20/IMG_0233.jpg My first set of 240SX rear calipers leaked around the seals after only two years. I replaced them, but I have had a run of bad luck with remanufactured 240SX rear calipers. I had to replace two Napa remanufactured calipers that leaked right out of the box. I have also had a new remanufactured Cardone 240SX rear caliper piston freeze the first time I pumped the brakes. Now when I buy 240SX calipers I check the piston retraction at the counter before accepting them. Just spin the piston in and out with the retraction tool to make sure there is no binding. I did some research on some of the 240SX and Nissan club sites and found that 240SX rear calipers have a history of the piston not retracting even when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Has anyone attempted to use brembo brakes?? I saw a nice set of evo lancer brakes for around 800. Im tempted to pick up a set and fab my own mounting brackets. Would it just be a matter of choosing the right suspension parts, wheels and fabbing some brackets?? Why do this over the AZC Wilwood setup? I don't think the Evo Brembo's are even aluminum. A loaded 2010 Evo calipers is listed at 12 lbs each which is only 2 lbs less than the Toyota V6 4-Runner caliper. The Evo calipers have no more clamping force than the Wilwoods. The Evo rotors are 25lbs each! And they're 13.77" dia, which I'm sure would require 18" or larger wheels. Do you have any actual braking performance goals in mind or do you just want calipers that say Brembo on them? Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_X_ Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 I'm going to be putting in a 5.3 with a t56 into my Z which will have more than double the horsepower of the old l28. Only reason I haven't picked up the wilwoods just yet is because I want to see if there was an alternative brake system in the same price range that could match or outperform the wilwood setup. I don't need something for track use, just something a lot better than stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 The stock brakes are enought for your 5.3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 I'm about to upgrade my brakes ready for an RB26DETT swap, I will be doing trackwork so my brake setup has to be as powerfull and well balanced as possible. I plan to use the AZC willwood setup on the front with a 1" master cylinder with my stock booster (same as 280Z) and an adjustable prop valve: But I still don't know what to use on the rear, I want something that will be powerfull and balance out the front setup well. I was originally planning on using the silvermine setup as I figure this will easily balance out with the front and will provide plenty of power. My only problem with it is that it is rather heavy, twice the weight of the stock drums. So my other option is using a smaller solid disc setup like the below: I know these function well and are lighter than the bigger silvermine setup, but will it be possible to get a good balance with these? are they going to be powerfull enouth. Which setup do you think I should run? The bigger more powerfull setup and just accept the extra weight or the smaller lighter setup? Need to make the right choice so all help appreciated, hopefully others running similar setups can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) I believe i have reviewed every thread associated with rear disk conversion and cannot find the answer to my situation. I have a 73 240z (s30). I have converted the rear brakes using a S32 rear hub conversion (from tech toys tunning). I am using rear S32 rotors and calipers . I am now trying to figure out how, if possible, to use the stock parking brake (PB) setup but cannot see how to do it short of a hydraulic slave cylinder activated by the S30 PB cables, then plumb to the rear calipers using some sort of check valves. I could use some help or suggestions as i am not sure how i can do this. Any reasonable alternatives? Am i thinking correctly that i need check valves to insure i do not pressurize the entire system when applying the parking brake instead of just the rear calipers? (does it matter?). I know about using a hydraulic locking valve but i am not sure i trust it to hold if parked an a steep incline. Edited May 25, 2013 by Kclank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme_240z Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 here the set up witch we switch over to last year. ive been running them for about 1 summer and for the size of the rotors with the 6 piston callipers i fine its a smooth stop if your not putting all your leg force into it. so this is the AZC kit. witch were a 12 inch front rotor with a 11 inch rear rotor. we got the 6 piston for the front and also have the 6 piston for the back ( not listed on AZC site) to mount the 6 piston calliper on the back req a slight mod on the plate that attaches the disk to the face of the hub so here was it on the front and the back when we were done we were satisfied with the change over. we were running the Motorsport auto big brake kit. the wheels are 18 inch all the way around front wheel read wheel they seem to fill better in person then these pics i found also we ended up changing and removing the original master and booster. ended up using a willwood master and no booster. made a alum block to accommodate the old factory holes and to attach the new master. we also had to change the leave location on the brake pedal. we also had the proportioning valve that motorsport sell. and this this new master the vale is almost completely open. and i have no issue yet on full lock on the wheels. * but this is a show/ driver car. although we went with a crazy brake swap its really mostly for looks* we also just got this year is the 2rd calliper used for the ebrake. although still waiting on how to make it work due to the drivetrain set up is proving a bit tricky to find location on were to mount the new cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I can't remember where I read it, but despite the cost supposedly running the AZC Wilwood setup front and rear with a rear proportioning valve can be balanced out to have a very good brake bias. Seeing the person who said the AZC fronts come out lighter than the actual stockers has me considering this upgrade if I end up not liking my 240SX rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme_240z Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I have yet to have the back tires lock up. I'm not sure how restricted the back brakes are but there around the same size as the front, but I'm running a 295 wide tire in the back so this could possibly help on the fact it doesn't lock up. Also if i remember correct the master has a build in proportioning valve basicly, when we called WillWood to confirm the master that was what they were recommending for street use, with those callipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Its hard to find answers on this but i want wilwood brakes but i still want my parking brake to work.......datsun parts sells a rear kit that allows the stock emergency brake to work ....but you have to extend the emergency brake lines by 2 inches ....anybody know how this is accomplished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Its hard to find answers on this but i want wilwood brakes but i still want my parking brake to work.......datsun parts sells a rear kit that allows the stock emergency brake to work ....but you have to extend the emergency brake lines by 2 inches ....anybody know how this is accomplished? There's another rear brake kit option that includes a brand new, high quality custom parking brake cable: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/ Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 ^^^^Well lets talk because im only 4 hours away from you up in Ottawa so im pretty interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Anyone have pictures Outlaw 2800 Calipers on the front of a 240Z? I have seen several old posts that state that the Outlaw 2800 Calipers will bolt up to the 240Z front strut, but not clear which rotor to use and if it requires modification. This may be a good alternative to the Toyota vented swaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsteve Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Designing the front to rear piston areas appears to have not been addressed with this topic. The Silvermine rear kit with 43mm piston gets close to the right front to rear piston area ratio but could be better (I have the 2 piston 43mm/34mm front caliper). Check the graph from this link: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/white-paper---brake-bias-and-performance-why-brake-balance-matters . The car for this link has very similar front to rear weight balance as a Z-car statically. Dynamically, though, with race car spring rates, a 30% contribution by rear brake piston area is near the maximum needed. Street cars won't need near as much rear brake. There are other variables such as rotor size, pad material, spring rate, proportion valve that effect brake bias sizing but front/rear piston sizing is the most important. Because of this, I picked a 3 square inch rear piston to balance out the front brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Duncan Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Another option for Z car brake swaps. FRONT. 2nd gen RX7 4 piston aluminum caliper. $50 to $80 Ebay rebuilt. stock brackets cut off front struts and new 3/8" thick mount tabs welded on. Front rotor: 2006 Sentra SER SpecV front rotors, center hole opened up and the other 4 holes drilled to fit the stock Z hub. The two puller holes actually line up exactly they just have to be enlarged. REAR: Z32 rear caliper, 2 piston aluminum. custom aluminum bracket to mount caliper to 2 of the 4 holes that hold the stock backing plate on the rear strut. Rear rotor: same Sentra rotor except the thickness cut down from 22mm to 17mm and the inner part of the disc and cooling vanes cut down to the edge of the brake pad and down to the outer part of the rotor. This reduces the rotor weight by 6 pounds. This rotor center hole and lug holes are a direct bolt up in the rear. This setup works with 15" wheels but they need to have lots of caliper room because the Z32 caliper sticks out 1-1/4" from the face of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Another option for Z car brake swaps. FRONT. 2nd gen RX7 4 piston aluminum caliper. $50 to $80 Ebay rebuilt. stock brackets cut off front struts and new 3/8" thick mount tabs welded on. Front rotor: 2006 Sentra SER SpecV front rotors, center hole opened up and the other 4 holes drilled to fit the stock Z hub. The two puller holes actually line up exactly they just have to be enlarged. REAR: Z32 rear caliper, 2 piston aluminum. custom aluminum bracket to mount caliper to 2 of the 4 holes that hold the stock backing plate on the rear strut. Rear rotor: same Sentra rotor except the thickness cut down from 22mm to 17mm and the inner part of the disc and cooling vanes cut down to the edge of the brake pad and down to the outer part of the rotor. This reduces the rotor weight by 6 pounds. This rotor center hole and lug holes are a direct bolt up in the rear. This setup works with 15" wheels but they need to have lots of caliper room because the Z32 caliper sticks out 1-1/4" from the face of the hub. Interesting. I am curious what is the min thickness stamped on those rotors? Is 17mm still within spec? Pics would be cool too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Duncan Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Interesting. I am curious what is the min thickness stamped on those rotors? Is 17mm still within spec? Pics would be cool too. Minimum is 20mm. I've done this before on custom brake applications, cutting a front rotor down to a rear rotor thickness. I'm going to test it on the Chumpcar racecar so it should be a good test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmagno Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Minimum is 20mm. I've done this before on custom brake applications, cutting a front rotor down to a rear rotor thickness. I'm going to test it on the Chumpcar racecar so it should be a good test.Running Toyota 4x4 front and Silvermine rear, slotted/drilled on all 4 and no issues in chumpcar races. Also no proportioning valve needed with 15/16 280z master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93anthracite Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Does anybody know of a reputable shop that is offering brackets for mounting rear 240sx calipers on a 240z? Essentially, looking for reproduction of Ross' Modern Motorsports kit, since it is no longer offered by them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 (edited) Here are a couple of shops you might try. If you don't see your need listed, call them and ask. Even if they don't have they may know a source. I actually saw a pattern to make that bracket somewhere on this site or Zdriver.com Gia & Gabriel Tylerwww.TechnoToyTuning.com Great folks to deal with and they make most of their stuff ArizonaZ.com lot's of neat stuff but have no experience dealing with them. McKinneymotorsports.com Expensive, but good stuff Edited August 4, 2014 by Kclank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts