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Alternate B&W T5 clutch slave set up.


ThomaZ

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It is not critical.

 

I think you lucked out. If you leave the fork long then you will have a light pedal but long travel. And if you cut the fork short it will give you a heavier pedal but shorter travel between full engagement and full release. This is something you can play with to get the pedal feel that you want.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As several people have asked for the measurements of to modified clutch fork arm I have been under the car and measured it up. From the deepest part of the U-shaped end to the centre of the hole for the push rod = 190 mm (7.48â€) and to the cut of end = 207 mm (8.15â€). See the photo below for details.

 

Best regards

 

ThomaZ

 

< http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16430&cat=500 >

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  • 5 months later...

The ford T5 has the same clutch arm action as the chevy T5. It has to push the pressure plate and TO bearing toward the engine, I dont see how it can possibly be different? I hope its the same, cause I have a ford T5 that I am going to use this setup on :icon9:

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  • 6 months later...

I know this thread is old, but I want to confirm that the T5 made for ford mustangs is indeed a "pull" type setup. The arm must be pulled TOWARDS the front of the car, not BACK towards the rear end like on this chevy setup. It looks like on the Ford, the pivot point is past the throwout bearing on the other side of the slave cylinder, whereas the on the chevy, the pivot point is between the throwout and the cylinder. I believe this is to facilitate the use of a the cable-type clutch on these cars.

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On the Ford T5 I installed in my Z a few months ago the arm gets pulled back to the rear of the car. That pivots the inner part of the arm (the side that touches the TO bearing) to the front of the car. I will post a picture one of these days.

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  • 6 months later...

After multiple issues with my Tilton Hydraulic release bearing setup, and the lack of ability to service it without removing the transmission, I've decided to resolve the concern by removing the unit and going this route. I really don't want to be at the track and have my only resolution to dealing with something like this as "removing the transmission" to deal with a fluid/leak/bearing issue... If it's a bearing, I'll be removing the tranny, but honestly I'm done with this thing pissing brake fluid all over the underside of the car...

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished bleeding it..

 

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/Mikelly_2006/Mikes%20Zcar%20Pics/SlavePic2.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/Mikelly_2006/Mikes%20Zcar%20Pics/SlavePic1.jpg

 

Other than the pedal being a little stiff due to the shorter fork, it seems to work very well. I cut the fork so short because it was a unit from Jegs and had a 45 degree bend in it about 2.5-3 inches down from the end... I had to make a choice, and cut just past the bend, which made it stiffer than I'd have liked... Oh well!

 

Otherwise, seems to work well. I'll make a heat shield to protect it from the exhaust if the pipes get that close that they become an issue.

 

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

Thomaz great right up!

 

I am replacing my stuffed SC at the moment and wanted to know how much pull in mm or inches does the wilwood have?

 

My old SC didnt seem to have enough throw to correctly disengage the clutch.

 

Cheers Graeme

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Thank you, Graeme!

 

My impression was also that the stroke of the stock SC was not really enough. According to Summit webpage the Slave Cylinder Stroke Length is 1.375 inch. I did not measure it when installed so I can not confirm. The car is in storage in another location right now so all I have is the catalogue value.

 

Best regards

ThomaZ

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks Tomaz, when it came to working out some sort of SC I took one look and thought of this set up. Slight modification, I am using the horizontal tab on the side of the trans, and welded a plate to the open side of the fork for the other end of the slave. I am just using a cheap no name SC, as well as an 11" clutch, so my T5 (chevy) set up is a bit different. Just need to run the line and bleed, will post back if it does!

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  • 5 months later...

Just Thought id share mine. Simple design and so far 500 miles no issues.

 

Its for T5 off a mustang wich is pull type towards the engine

 

 

DSC03069.jpg

 

 

 

I used a longer bolt for the bellhousing to engine so i can use the bolt to hold the brace. Basically holds the cylinder in place like any other design. got the plate from osh and used the rest to make other mounts.

 

(Disregard the bolt on the end of the cylinder -it was removed after i reliaze it didnt need to be there lol)

DSC03081.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
I want to point out that this also works for the Tremec TKO gearboxes behind a SBC....and that the Wilwood SC is overpriced. Summit has a HOWE pull type slave for about $45....the Wilwood is almost twice that price. I used the HOWE and didn't have to fab up a bracket for it. There is an ear cast into the side of the case that was the perfect distance away from the fork.

 

OK, I know I am pulling one from the archives but I also have a HOWE pull type slave from Summit. Is the ear that is cast on the side of the T5 strong enough to support this ? Don't want to make the bracket if not necessary.

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Drew, It is, but I would NOT use that bearing. We had it in Jim's car and found it would not stand up to the pressure of an aftermarket pressure plate. Within 100miles the seal started leaking. I contacted HOWE and the tech specifically stated that the unit is made for OEM clutch/PP systems only and is stated in the instructions...

 

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

I know this thread is a little old but the information is still useful. Anyways, I'm considering this for my car as my clutch is acting up and after a lot of testing different things and checking them I'm 99% sure I need to rebuild my hydraulics. I have two questions....

 

first, how do you get the clutch fork out of the transmission

 

second, what size master is best for this slave? The JTR manual says a .75 bore master but thats for the camaro slave. Anyone know what would be a good bore master for the wilwood slave?

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