schneider cams

[Dan Baldwin]

FWIW, I lost a lobe on my Schneider cam a few years back. They replaced it without a hassle, though it was over a year old. I inspected the new cam they gave me and lo and behold, one of the oil dribble holes wasn't *quite* drilled all the way through! Just a pinhole where the hole met the rifle drilling down the middle of the camshaft. That lobe woulda been toast for SURE.

 

So if you get one, CHECK THE DRIBBLE HOLES!

[73GreeNMachine]

Here is a copy and paste from CompCams website.

 

In terms of oil selection' date=' we recommend Shell Rotella T oil for the break-in procedure. Most often used in diesel engine applications...[/quote']

 

 

it just says that it is best to use it for break in. They arent really saying it better to use all the time. I would trust it for the break in, but i dont know if i would trust it for long term use. Any other info regarding that oil?

[73GreeNMachine]

I emailed shell about the Rotella T oil and using it in gasoline engines and here is what they said:

Dear John,

 

The Rotella T 15W-40 meets API SL, SJ, SH and all previous

specifications for gasoline engines. The 15W-40 viscosity is heavier than what is

recommended for most gasoline engines, but if you feel comfortable with

it, then there should be no problem. Rotella T 15W-40 is recommended

for and used in many mixed fleet applications.

 

All diesel engine oils have very robust additive packages that include

high detergency. This is critical for the demands of heavy duty diesel

engines. API specifications dictate that current oils must be backward

compatible so as not to harm any older vehicles. Using Rotella T is

probably a little bit of overkill, as it has way more protection than you

will ever need, but is certainly won't harm your engine.

 

Thank you for your interest in our products! If you have any further

questions, you can call us at 800 231 6950.

 

Sincerely,

MaryCarol Boemmel

Lubrication Engineer

http://www.shell-lubricants.com

 

So i guess it is ok to run in gas motors everyday.

[Pyro]

I have been using Rotella everday and my oil seems to stay cleaner for much longer periods and also stays much "slicker". My old gas engine oil becomes black and feels like water after a few thousand miles.

[eec564]

I've been very happy with Rotella T in all my diesels (mercedes 300SDs, Diesel suburbans, 4.xL and 6.2L, mechanical and EFI) and if it isn't too thick for your gas engine I'd say go for it. You may (not really sure, but I feel I gained power when going to 15W-40 from 20W-50) loose some power if you were used to 10W-30 in your L6, but diesel engine oil is amazing in high wear applications. The ABSOLUTE best oil I've ever used is Archer Oil, nearly impossible to find except in the mid-west, almost always in 55gal drums only, and expensive to the point of 4$/quart, but it's amazing. I've seen great running diesels have only muddy oil changes with that stuff, not pitch black. I also over-hauled a truck engine that overheated and blew a head gasket that ran the stuff, and it had zero deposits and barely measureable wear. And this was on a wheat hauling truck in kansas, with one of the worst matience records I'd seen. From the diesels to the large gas V8s, 15W-40 diesel oil is my choice for longivity.

 

Also, after that long rant, here's a question. Does anyone know anything about nitriding (sp?) cams? I get the basic idea, but don't know if it really would help in our Zs.

[wingnutthehutt]

I am by no means an expert, especially on the L6, but here I wanted to throw this out there. When rebuilding an engine, it's not necessarily a good thing that everything is spotless and shiny. My experience comes from motorcycles mainly, especially dirt bikes, and when something was clean inside, it was usually toast. The bearings tend to be fried and, on a two stroke, cylinders worn. Eec564, I don't mean to counteract you, as you have stated that there was "barely measurable wear." Just throwing something out there.

 

That being said, I had a big Schneider cam in a SBC that ran great until the day someone stole the car. Got the motor back in pieces and the cam looked perfect. Of course, that cam is 15 years old.

[preith]

My experience comes from motorcycles mainly' date=' especially dirt bikes, and when something was clean inside, it was usually toast. The bearings tend to be fried and, on a two stroke, cylinders worn. Eec564, I don't mean to counteract you, as you have stated that there was "barely measurable wear." Just throwing something out there.

[/quote']

 

I've found that in the days before synthetics that was true, usually because there was a fair amount abrasion in the oil becasue of the of metal in it, but the synthetics are really good at not leaving any sludge, etc.

[eec564]

I am by no means an expert' date=' especially on the L6, but here I wanted to throw this out there. When rebuilding an engine, it's not necessarily a good thing that everything is spotless and shiny. My experience comes from motorcycles mainly, especially dirt bikes, and when something was clean inside, it was usually toast. The bearings tend to be fried and, on a two stroke, cylinders worn. Eec564, I don't mean to counteract you, as you have stated that there was "barely measurable wear." Just throwing something out there.

 

That being said, I had a big Schneider cam in a SBC that ran great until the day someone stole the car. Got the motor back in pieces and the cam looked perfect. Of course, that cam is 15 years old.[/quote']

 

Yea, I completely understand how things that are nice and clean can be blown. I should have been more specific in saying everything (cams, pistons/cyliners, bearings) was still well within factory spec and there were no deposits on the intake/pistons/chamber/cylinder walls, just nice slippery oil on the things that should have it. The engine I was refering to was an International Loadstar 1600 V8 gas dump truck (1970s?) used to haul wheat back on the farm. Asside from needing a new head gasket, everything else was in perfect shape after it got overheated due to nobody checking the water level after it sat for a year. That thing has seen the absolute worse matience I've seen, even for farm trucks. Oil changed maybe once every two-three years, and driven in extremely dusty conditions, with the air filter never changed, just cleaned. I'm amazed it runs as well as it does, obviously not entirely due to good oil, but mostly good design by International. Although I'm decently sure the clean and un-worn engine is more then marginally attributed to good oil. It's a good truck, and kinda fun to drive too with a two-speed axle.

[Silent]

i lost 4 cam lobes and over 50 hp because of this. on a schinder cam

 

anywho. i think it's lack of zinc content in oil that is causing it. our setups need this for the cam to survive.

[JMortensen]

i lost 4 cam lobes and over 50 hp because of this. on a schinder cam

 

anywho. i think it's lack of zinc content in oil that is causing it. our setups need this for the cam to survive.

What makes you so sure it's the zinc? As I said before, I'm running oil that has no zinc content, I've had 3 cams in the current head all with the same rocker arms, never resurfaced the arms. The rockers have about 250,000 miles on them altogether. Could it be something else?

[Silent]

What makes you so sure it's the zinc? As I said before, I'm running oil that has no zinc content, I've had 3 cams in the current head all with the same rocker arms, never resurfaced the arms. The rockers have about 250,000 miles on them altogether. Could it be something else?

 

 

hence the thinking part.

when i think it's either right, or wrong. 50 50 shot.

 

im leaning more towards soft cam core

[Pyro]

It just isn't the zinc they are taking out. There are a few more additives that they have reduced. I don't believe they took out the zinc completely, just reduced it by one half. If there is a zinc-free oil, maybe there are other additives which make up for it.

 

FYI, Chevron Delo is formulated for diesel engines. Here is a copy and paste from there web site.

 

 

 

 

Chevron Delo® 400 ESI Multigrade SAE 15W-40

Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade heavy duty motor oil is an industry leading, super premium quality "universal" engine oil which exceeds industry and engine manufacturers' performance requirements. It is formulated utilizing the most advanced additive technology available to provide outstanding engine protection under both pre- and post-1998 EPA exhaust particulate emissions standards for on highway diesel trucks, using both high and low sulfur diesel fuels.

 

Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade is formulated with ISOSYNâ„¢ base stocks, which rival synthetics in critical engine tests and an optimal blend of the latest technology in dispersant, detergent, oxidation inhibition, antiwear, corrosion inhibition, viscosity improver, and defoaming additives.

 

 

Chevron Delo synthetic SAE 0W-30, 5W-40

Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic heavy duty motor oils are multipurpose 100% synthetic lubricants formulated for use in gasoline and diesel engines, torque converters, gear cases, and hydraulic systems operating in subzero arctic-type temperatures. They are manufactured using stable synthetic base stocks. These oils utilize highly dispersed viscosity index improvers that promote stable viscosities and soot dispersancy between oil drains.

[Zsane]

The rock crawling crowd @ pirate4x4.com use this guy for their cryo work and comes highly recommended. They mainly do axle shafts, trans shafts, gears and u-joints. He also does custom double bead lock work. Located in nor cal.

 

Dean @ http://www.performancecryogenics.com/