olie05 Posted September 16, 2006 Author Share Posted September 16, 2006 I have kicked the ECU, as the efi bible recommends ( i think...) I know i heard somewhere to kick the ecu while driving, or trying to start, No difference in my case. Looking at the wiring diagrams it seems that i will be tracing the wire from the ignition switch "IG" pin to the main relay, to the afm flap, back to the main relay and to the ecu. somewhere along the lines something is faulty, although i'm not totally convinced that the AFM has control over power going to the ecu yet... still trying to figure out nissan's 70s wiring diagrams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 Maybe it's thirsty, have you tried pouring some soda on it? I think that's about all that's left... I opened up the 77 fuel injection relay (the wiring on my car looks like I salvaged it from the Titanic-all corroded and crumbly) and it's got a little printed circuit inside. Well, opened it up is more a euphamism for "it fell apart in my hands," but that's neither here nor there. My point is that the stock fuel injection is needlessly complicated and time consuming to diagnose, and a megasquirt costs less than a new fuel injection relay if you build it yourself. Globerunner, no harm, no foul. I freaked a girl out once by giving her a ride in my first 280 that was wired like that, and she freaked out when I turned off the defroster to turn off the car. She thought it was so cool, but I'm not sure her standards were that high, since we were driving to Target to buy a wire hanger to fish out her keys that were locked in her eclipse (both outside plastic doorhandles were broken, and her keys were on the passenger seat.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Olie, My z is a 78 model so I dont know if the 77 is wired the same way as a 78 as I dont have a 77 FSM, but I do have a 78 FSM and I went through a similar problem as you. My engine not wanting to rev very high ended up being a Wal-Mart bag being sucked up into the cold air intake. A secondary problem of my z not revving very high was the air gap inside the distributor. Once that air gap was adjusted to w/in tolerance my z had plenty of get up and go. As far as the not running problem, my car would act up only after it had reached operating temp's and shut the engine off: it was a no run-hot engine issue for me...up until the engine wouldnt start at all one morning. I had three problems. The first problem was a defective Ignition Relay (the clicking sound under the pass side dash area). Once I replaced that relay the car was fine for a week or two then it refused to start all over again. This time it was my Fuel Pump Relay and the Fuel Pump Controller Relay (Both found under the metal box on the inner fender well). The clicking sound in the pass area was the ignition relay (on my 78Z). Prior to the ignition relay going out; upon starting the engine - said switch would click multiple times as the enigne was turning over, and it would continue this clicking up until the engine started and the key was returned to "run" position. After going through all of that I ended up becoming an expert on diagnosing the ignition system of a 78Z. This was about three years ago. Since then the ignition switch failed again and it was rather easy for me to diagnose this time around. The first time I replaced the relay it was an old relay from a salvage yard car. This last time I replaced it w/one from Nissan - no probs as of yet. Hope this is helpful. BTW: it will help if you have extra relays you know to be good - you can then simply swap the old relays for the test relays and obtain an instant go/no go diagnosis. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 In all the posts I did not notice anyone mention checking the grounds. I had the same problem mentioned in the first post, turned out to be a grounding problem with the relays under the passenger side dash. You can check to see of the relays are grounded by touching a 12V test light to the metal case. It is best to hook up the negative ground of the light to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition on and probe around. If the light comes on, you have a bad ground. Plus you will hear the realy click because the test light will complete the circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 here's Larry: Here's me: I think I understood that...Who's on first again? Max, You cracked me up last night when I first read this thread regarding your resopnse to Larry's brainstorm (Hey Larry - we are not laughing at you we are only laughing with you: we understand it was late and it probably sounded good at the time it was written). BTW: Olie, I have the same rod/piston key ring as you. I sent mine to the performance machine shop and had it balanced and blueprinted. I have since discovered that the "turnage" efficiency has been optimized and I can now insert the key and turn it much quicker. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Max, You cracked me up last night when I first read this thread regarding your resopnse to Larry's brainstorm (Hey Larry - we are not laughing at you we are only laughing with you: we understand it was late and it probably sounded good at the time it was written) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) You know I just reread what I posted and I must of had a flashback to my old management meetings days in my telephone company employment time when I wrote that. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 bump Olie: did you ever resolve this issue? Maybe it's thirsty, have you tried pouring some soda on it? Max.. you crack me up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Lol this thread has gotten out of hand! The problem sort of fixed itself. I pretty much took everything apart, (relay and switch-wise) and put it back together. Once everything was back together it acted the same, until a day later when it started up just fine. I am pretty sure it was a dirty contact in the ignition switch at this point, because of the way i had to "finesse" the key to get it to stay on without having to hold it in the start position. I don't consider this problem completely resolved since I did not fix it, however the car is driving around like normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjc5500 Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 short in the colume(sp)? did this to me in my 240. i had a wire exposed and short only running in start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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