Kclank Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) I just saw a 76 on Mecum auctions in Monterey. The bid got to $26,000, but it didn't sell. I think they said the owner was looking for $30,000. I only wish I had that little in mine. Thanks for the note Edited August 15, 2014 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) The project is moving along. Fresh from the paint booth this morning. The pictures do not do it justice. Up close this fiberglass looks as straight as metal where a lot of Fiberglas bodies tend to be wavy. Thumbs up to Ancient Auto body and a fantastic team of anal retentive technicians (in a good way) who have taken this project as if it was their own. Lot's more to do, but the engine should be in soon so the car can begin to sit as it should. More to follow as the build continues. Doors and hood are in wet sanding now and will probably be painted today. sorry the picture files became corrupted and i did not have backups. Edited September 18, 2014 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedRacer Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Wow!!! What a gorgeous color and boy does it look smoooooth!!!! Yeah, it takes many, many hours of sanding, guide coating, sanding, guide coating, sanding, etc. to get the panels to look like metal but it is really worth it in the end. Please keep us updated as I can not wait to see the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 I sorted out one of those simple issues which always seems to take me hours and hours of procrastination to address. In this case is was the driving lights.As you will know the original Marchals cost about the same as the rest of the car combined but they have a unique style of mounting bolt - out the back of the casing - which makes it hard to buy something off-the-shelf. I found some low cost lights on eBay which fitted the opening and had a metal casing which I could modify to suit.Ground off the heads of the rivets holding the original mounts and drilled a hole in the back of the casing.I welded a washer (spreader plate) to the head of a 10mm bolt and poked it through the back of the casing and tack welded. I turned down the head of the bolt to have clearance to the lamp itself.I spread a bit of plasticine on the back of the opening in the bodywork (it's red and a bit hard to see in the photo) and pressed in the light to find the location for the mounting hole.I slapped a bit of paint on the retaining ring to give it a Marchal look. Happy with the outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokyo Drftr Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 here"s the KC(s) mounted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokyo Drftr Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Well been testing my 260z drift car. Need more lock, chassis stiffened, and my nitrous set up. Body holding up fine, std torque cracks. But all pretty solid. Here are a few shots. Not the the kind of cars most people build here. But built it for me not for resale ability. Took a lot of queues from my F40, my 288 and a few real GTO's i was able to inspect. Next project will be replacing the lump with a 3.O Ferrari V8. Here are a few pics. Last one is my Tow limo, i drift it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 I wonder what happened to my last 3 postings and 10 pictures. Hey web master Gods what's up with that. Site acting very wierd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 A few updates for my project car. The intercooler is just sitting there not in final position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Nice work, congratulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokyo Drftr Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 The cross lace wire wheels just didn't cut it for me drifting. Trying out these 72 spokes. At least changing wheels with knock offs is fast and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokyo Drftr Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I built my rear diffuser patterned after the racing 250 GTO diffusers of the time. going to change my wiper arm to the driver side as in the original cars. Having a a blast. Just plumbed in my on board fire system. Next on the agenda is a cage. Was really trying to avoid the weight, but too much torque flex. Already cracking my body in places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) I built my rear diffuser patterned after the racing 250 GTO diffusers of the time. .... WHAT... In 1962 diffusers were only ever found in de fuse box. ... going to change my wiper arm to the driver side as in the original cars.... Wipers were fitted either way depending if the car was LHD or RHD. Similarly the dry-sump tank was always fitted and filled from the opposite side to the driver. Edited September 7, 2014 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 The cross lace wire wheels just didn't cut it for me drifting. Trying out these 72 spokes. At least changing wheels with knock offs is fast and easy. What size are they? I might be interested in trade or purchase. PM me with pics if interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 WHAT... In 1962 diffusers were only ever found in de fuse box. Wipers were fitted either way depending if the car was LHD or RHD. Similarly the dry-sump tank was always fitted and filled from the opposite side to the driver. Do you have belly pan (s)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) I would like to ask if anyone would please submit a few photos of the conversion process, so I could 'sell the idea' to a friend that's interested in helping me out. Maybe we could build two! Photos: front clip installed Rear clip installed door skins installed hood hinges attached to chassis THanks! Edited September 17, 2014 by TomoHawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If you send me a message with your email address I send you a copy of the installation guide. It's very old, probably for an Alpha version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) I would like to ask if anyone would please submit a few photos of the conversion process, so I could 'sell the idea' to a friend that's interested in helping me out. Maybe we could build two! Photos: front clip installed Rear clip installed door skins installed hood hinges attached to chassis THanks! I can send you pics of these items after they have been installed, but i do not have the details of alignments and trial fitting. I have the installation manual from John Washington's VR and I could give/send you and I have a copy of what was Thunder Ranch's 250 GTO manual which is attached in PDF format. The VR manual is more detailed and the better guide but I would offer that if you want a real nice car that you have or can obtain professional auto body technician skills. INHO a layman with good mechanical ability and the ability to work with fiberglass and auto body fillers can do it but it will take a lot longer to obtain nice results (a bazzilion hours of sanding, filling, etc). If you are building a racer or just a toy, and don't require a showy fit and finish then it probably be thrown together in 100-150 hours (not counting mechanical work on the car). Its the final finish that takes much more time. The VR has a nice option for the tilt front end like a corvette or XKE. I am using the fixed front with normal hood opening. I have a few pics in this thread and lots of other folks do also. if you want the documentation I offered PM me with your address. I do not want to scan and send. In all honesty the only thing in the manual(s) that did me any good was methods of bonding and filling and the cutting out of the rear wheel well lips. Other then that it is more of fit, trim/fill, sand, fit, etc intil you are saticfied. Most of this is on the front end, and substantially on the door skins.. the rear clip (TR kit) was a pretty good fit for contour and only required moderate fitting. of course you have to decide on lights which to need to layout for position and trim. The front clip takes a lot of fitting not because the kit front ends are bad, but more because of variations in the 240/260/280 chassis around the cowl and front edges of doors. Hood hinges are dependent on which type of front end you choose. In theory you use the stock front fender fastener locations for the fixed front but transferring the hole pattern is problematic. i had mine bonded on by the shop that has done much of my body work. I used a Pantera style hatch instead of the stock Datsun hatch so I have no experience with the stock hatch fitment to the new aft skin. My biggest issue was locating window/door seals that fit since new replacements are either thicker or harder so getting the seals to relax properly takes some time with heat. The upper window seals have a wiper lip that is hardest to replace. Save all old parts until to are finished reassembling. Even old dried seals can often be reinvigorated by soaking in silicon oils. Door hinges stay in factory locations and do not change due to kit however shimming may be necessary to help alignment to fit gaps to front fenders and rear clip. It's an interesting journey so hang in there thru any frustrating times. Lots of help and suggestions on this site and a bit on "Mad Mechanics". Keep a positive attitude and have fun. Hope what I am sending helps ya. GTO PAGE 1.pdf GTO PAGE 2 PARTS PACKING LIST.pdf 250 Manual.pdf Weatherstrip1.pdf Edited September 27, 2014 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I finally found a pushbutton lock that's in stock! http://www.truckoutfittersplus.com/store/topper_parts_t_handle.htm#th10 You'll need to redesign the door lock mechanism, but it'll work, probably. It's designed like the Datsun hatch lock, but with a long threaded body, much longer than the MGA boot lock, and it's made in the USA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Nice find! I did not even look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 I bought one lock, and it looks like it should fit the hole for the Datsun lock withough any modifications. The lock's arm will need modifying, or rather just a new arm (I think.) The arm needs a square hole to key to the lock, but the lock has the required 90-degree movement for the hatch and doors. I also bought one of the "grab handles" for the hatch. The grab handles are black, so they need painting or chromeing. I might get two more handles if I feel lucky & use them on the doors. I just can't tell how you'd re-key the locks for the same key, but I think a locksmith would know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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