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Following on from the movie  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/?p=1182927 I've put together a book about the build.


I just started out keeping notes for myself and any future owners about what went into the build for later maintenance and repair. Friends wanted to know how it was progressing so the notes morphed in quarterly journal entries.


Someone suggested I compile it into a photo-book and as it turned out I think it gives added provenance to the car.


attachicon.gifPhotobook pages 3.jpg


attachicon.gifFirst edition 1s.jpg


attachicon.gifFirst edition 2s.jpg


Just a thought for those undertaking builds.


I have a copy of this book and it is a huge coffee table book full of interesting and useful information.  If you are thinking of taking on a 240Z to Ferrari GTO project I would highly recommend you get a copy.  Peter (Boy from OZ) does some very interesting things in his build and comes up with some excellent good ideas.  

Edited by SpeedRacer
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Very very impressive. Congratulations.

Found these two at a local consignment dealer.             http://www.specialtysales.com/vehicles/11090             http://www.specialtysales.com/vehicles/11089  

Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton...  You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.

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Does it stioll exist?  I was going to add mine, but I don't think the GTORR is still online, for obvious reasons.

Yes and no.  I don't know what "for obvious reasons" means but John Washington has a little bit of the GTO Replica Registry (GTORR) on line as part of his Reaction Research site:    http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/index.html


However, I think John is to busy with his other companies and endeavors so he hasn't done much with it. 

Edited by SpeedRacer
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Think that 12 cylinder engine is wrong for the car, IMO.  It's too big and too heavy.  A lightweight 3 Litre V-8 with a short stroke would be more fitting, IMO, as it would be closer to  the original  specification. 


The 12 weighs less than a cast iron Small Block Chevy V8.. I think mine was about 325lbs.. an 12 cylinder has a distinct sound and smoothness.. The original GTOs had an all aluminum (2.5 liter) SOHC V12.. the BMW is 5-6 liter, SOHC and external dimensions and weight are about the same as the Ferrari engine  :)  


Different strokes for different folks  :D (pun intended)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can it spin 8,000 RPM?

Nope, and neither can most V8s people put in this chassis.


6400 rpm stock, well blueprinted maybe 7000, which is more than most overhead valve, non race prepped, single cam engines as it has overhead cams.


I do want a Hartley type V8 for my black fiero .. that goes to 14k redline.. but the price still hurts my brain.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings GTO kit owners,


I have a GTO kit that I am restoring and modifying with LS1 and T56 of of 04 GTO.     post-55257-0-35239300-1503275757_thumb.jpg


I have re-enforced the chassis and replaced the floor boards.  I have started to finish the body (making the vents functional).  


I have a complete 2004 GTO w/T56 donor.  I could use any advice before I start pulling the donor apart.





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  • 8 months later...

Good to be able to post again. Thanks Brian.


I've made a few modification during the 12 month evaluation period prior to final painting. Here is the first.


During the build I had a Perspex rear window made as I needed to drill holes to mount it, which I couldn't do with a glass window. This made it easy to mount a rear window vent. I must admit I did this purely for appearance but as it turned out it dramatically lowered the cabin temperature on hot days - we have a few of them down here!





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Hi. I have made new frames but the radiused curves could, I presume, be created in the stock frame by a similar technique.


I made my own frames originally because I fitted sliding windows, unfortunately I soon learnt they had a serious design flaw. I had basically mounted them to the top of the lightweight fibreglass doors which I'd also made. At speeds over 100 km/h the pressure variation pulled the top of the window away from the bodywork as the fibreglass flexed. I've learnt that the guides which run down into the door not only facilitate the correct movement of the glass when it is lowered, but also provide a counter resistance point for the pressure on the glass when the window is up.


The original frame is marked in yellow and the new frame in blue.





I shaped the channel for the first set of frames to include a retaining lip but this time I simply used stock channel and glued the Bailey Channel to it - fingers crossed!



With the door and frame located I positioned the 'side sections' in place and tack welded. If you intend to use original frames I'd suggest you lay it out on a piece of ply and use a series of nails either side of the frame to fix in in position, i.e. make a jig. You could then cut out the 90 degree section and replace it with three pieces of metal as per my approach. You'll have to first strip and then re-chrome the frame.





After removing the tacked frame it can be fully welded.



One more trial fit as it distorts very easily during welding. A bit of warming with a torch allows for fine adjustment.



A bit of trimming with Wiss snips and some linishing with a finger file sander and there you have it.




Edited by Boy from Oz
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another modification before final painting was to lower the front wheel arches.


I found I hadn't set the suspension with sufficient ground clearance and when I raised the ride height the lip of the guard (fender) created too big a gap above the top of the tyre.


I chamfered the edge of the existing guard on both sides and attached a section of corflute sheet.



I applied several layers of matting, then removed the corflute and applied more layer from the inside



I reattached the wheel and defined the new edge and sanded back.



I applied 12mm fibreglass rope to recreate a firm edge.



I little bit of hi-fill and some more sanding and it was ready for paint.



Before. (i.e. with the raised ride height)



After (same ride height as above)



Edited by Boy from Oz
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello All, greetings from Ontario, Canada.


I have spent the last couple of hours reading various posts on the 250 GTO Owners forum, and I must say it is quite impressive.


I recently returned from Monza, Italy where myself and a few friends attended the Formula 1 race. We then traveled down to Maranello to visit the Ferrari factory and museums.


If any of you have been you know the outstanding display of Ferrari's available, among them the beautiful 250 GTO.


I'm looking for a new project to undertake, a few years ago I did a McLaren F1 LM replica and now my focus is the 250 GTO.


I have spent the better part of today doing a fair bit of research to determine the body kit - manufacturer to focus on.


I'm looking to the combined wisdom of this group for direction. If I could find a turn-key car or one which has progressed to some degree I am in a position to purchase.


Ideally this project would come from Ontario, however, anywhere in Canada is also acceptable. I'm open to all projects, I have experience with the importation of "car-kits".


There are a lot of very talented builders / owners here, looking forward to your feed-back.






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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey take a look on eBay. "John Washington at Reaction Research (Ztrix.com)" 250 GTO for sale. Only 29 released before fabrication was shut down by Ferrari. Current Bid is $8,500!





Edited by mudjr14
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