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We don't need no stinking fusible links!


Warren

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Well ya'll, I finally did it. After upgrading from a 70 to a 140 amp alternator (GM CS type), and having a near stranding experience recently, I finally got fed up with the dang fusible links and took the 20 or so minutes it took to install the maxifuse block that I've had now for the last 6 months or so.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Bush mechanics way is to work out the max amps draw possible on the particular circuit and then use a fuseable link/circuit breaker capable of a bit more than that.

 

My project car is being rewired so auto resetting circuit breakers are being used instead of fuseable links. But the setup above is a good alternative.

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I'm more curious about the alt on this one. Where did you get a 140A alt and how much did it cost? Details please!

 

Most modern cars have alternators in the 140 amp range. Stock GM alternators for LS motors are I think 108 amps or 140 amp, depending upon model. My minivan has a 140 amp alternator.

 

Modern electronics suck a lot of juice.

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Yep, it's a GM CS (Current Sensing) alternator. Modding the mounting bracket was the most difficult part of the whole process, but with patience, a little pre-planning (i.e. searching on the net) and precautionary ingenuity, meaning don't just tap the bolt hole, drill it completely through and use a longer bolt with 2 nuts on the back of it, it can be done.

 

Refer: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 Keep in mind that you can choose which amperage alternator you'd like to use as GM has a wide variety available, some of which you don't even have to change the pulley on.

 

Warren

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Actually the fusible links may be hard to find but they're easy to make.

I just used 12ga link wire, available at any auto parts store, and connectors to fit the BAS (Big Ass Spade) terminals are sourced from a car audio shop.

The Maxifuse idea is awesome, though.

The GM alternator mod is cool, too. I had to mod the Nissan alt after I broke one of the tiny bolts in the bracket, so I drilled it (the bracket) through on a press to 3/8 and used a (GM) 3" long alternator bolt. It's just BARELY long enough, the nut threads on flush with the bolt if you tighten the bloody hell out of it. I guess that'll make upgrading my alt a bit easier in the future.

I also had to drill the ears out on the Nissan alternator for this to work, but work it does.

So far I'm happy with the nissan alt, it's a 90A (280z w/ A/C stock alt)

THe Q45 uses a 110A alt but the connections are totally different.

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Guest Grenade300

I have a 73 240Z, I know that one of the fusable links is coming right off the starter, but where is the other one located? I followed the white/red wire coming off the alternator that eventually ends up powering the fuse box under the console the other fusable link is supposed to be somewhere in line with that wire, right?

 

Thanks,

Scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

Carefull with these they alow alot of room for crap to get into the connections. Use dome die electric grease in the connections, and also use sylicone to seal up where the wires go into the connector. Trust me I did get stranded for a couple hours with a buddy of mine trying to clean a connection with minimal tools just my .02

 

also if anyone has a problem with dimming lights i fixed mine by running a heavier gauge wire i think i ran a nuber 4 or a number 6 i cant remember

Warren,

Nice.. But if you want more bling you can go with these

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