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New to Z's, old to Supras-just saying hi


Guest frdfocussvt

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Guest frdfocussvt

Lets see, I have a fully built 88 Supra Turbo that was totalled. I also just picked up a 76 280Z w/ a bad motor. Hmmmmmm, what to do, what to do.

 

Just a taste of things to come, Ive been browsing the forum for a few days and did a lot of searching and I like this place. Hopefully I'll figure out how to post pics so I can show you the progress on the build. Thanks for all the help and for all the future help and advice cuz' Im sure theres going to be a question or two before Im done;-)

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Guest frdfocussvt

Hey guys, well I guess its a little in the air. Might sell the Supras and go V8, who know, we'll see soon. The motor I may still use is a 7MGTE out of a 88, fully built top to bottom, TEO4Ebb, fuel system,etc...about $20K into the motor and it has 17K original miles on it. So, if the deal goes south I may part them out, or put them in the Z, who knows. Lots to think about

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Id be glad to send or post a ton of photos I already have hosted. I would love to see another one. Please dont put it into a rusty chassis, we have tons of good donors out here in AZ.

 

AK-Z: Wiring wasnt that bad, even though Clifton helped with mine, he wasnt under the glove box for that long, What did it need Clifton Hot, Switched hot, Ground, Fuel pump relay switch, A/C trigger I think that was it. The supra engine harness is pretty well seperated from the chassis harness. Hell rewiring my headlights to work on a relay and my fan to work with the A/C on and a thermostatically controlled switch were about the same difficulty. During the swap I got out the TSRM and labeled every wire and when Clifton saw it he said (something to the effect of) "What did you do all that for" I said "So we would know where they all go." He said "we only need like 4 wires." Oh and the Tach sense, it will probably be easiest to use the guts of the Supra Tach in the Z tach, that was easy too.

 

Bummer about your Supra, but if you do put that motor in a Z you will be blown away at how fast it is. Vipers, Vetts, Bikes, Clifton is very modest, this conversion is SHOCKINGLY fast, dont even think about driving your Z car with stock brakes afterwards.

 

For the first 3 months I thought the 3-4 Vipers I had raced were letting off the throttle, Vette guys (the ones that would race me) were laughably slow (I thought they were letting off too). I even raced a C6 ZO6 from about 55-130 and beat him no problem also.

 

If you already know all about the 7MGTE I would say you have already crossed the biggest hurdle. The 7M with tranny fully dressed only weighs 100lbs more than the L motor fully dressed and it will pass emissions with flying colors. The A/C lines just cut off the rubber bits and take both ends into a NAPA or a Tractor place and they can crimp new hose of the proper length on.

 

Clutch slave? easy

Motor mounts? easy, hell I will sell you some.

Crossmember? I will sell you one of those too if you need

Speedo?!? hooks right up to the stock cable

Drive shaft? 150-250 at any drive shaft shop

Fan? run an electric one.

Fuel? Mount the Walbro in the stock Z tank, and both of us are on the stock Z Fuel lines.

 

 

DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!

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How do you guys feel about the rod knock issue in these motors? I had done alot of reading and it seems to happen alot and makes the motor seem fragile? I also read that on completely stock motos with meticulous maintence and low miles the rod knock developed. I contancted member Supra510 about this and he is on his 3RD motor I beleive he said. So from my readings the 7m needs: Metal headgasket and ARP headbolts, and it need to have this rod knocking addressed? Ideas?

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My motor had 189k when I put it in. I rebuilt it at probably 210k miles just becasue I had it out to paint the car and I knew it wasn't going to last forever, not because of rod knock. I think most worn rod bearings are from people running a little low on the dip stick that is too high in the pan to begin with. Mine is always just above the full mark. I would reuse the stock bolts before using arp head bolts. If you are going to spend the money get studs.

 

The drive line angle is what it is. There is no way to really correct it. It is not the much of an issue that alot of people think it is. If you do it use a sSicer 1310 rear u joint, The Nissan one is tiny compared to the Toy front.

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I'm not to into drag racing were scatter shields seem to be popular. I may be wrong but I don't think power has much to do with a PP or clutch coming apart, atleast not at this level. As much as you can make with a 7m, there are many other motors making alot more and I haven't heard of any on the other boards I frequent having anything come apart. I do know of one L and one VG30 but they weren't high hp motors.

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Guest bigredram3500

Hey guys, I had a problem with my internet, hopefully its fixed now. Well. the projects started, tearing it all down now for stripping and chassis work. As far as wiring goes, Im a little lucky and have two complete parts cars to pull from, including ecu, harness, etc....

 

So far, the plan is to subframe and rollcage it, new suspension, drop in the drivetrain and go road racing. Ill post some pics when I get a little farther along. Thanks for all the help so far and for all the help in the future cuz Im sure Ill need it!!!! Wish me luck.

 

PS: I plasnned on going tubular for the crossmember, what did you guys do. Mod the oem???

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PS: I plasnned on going tubular for the crossmember, what did you guys do. Mod the oem???

 

I used the Supra mount and removable crossmember. I had to notch it a bit to clear a 3" tube. I think Andy mad a new mount. Put it as far back as you can. The shifter comes up short of the hole in the tunnel.

 

diffmountrd2.jpg

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I did the same.. lol. i just made a cross bar and attached the supra mount to the top of it. my notch wasnt as pretty as cliftons though..

 

even the wiring isnt hard. like andy said above.. real simple stuff.

 

and count me as another A70 guy turned datsun.. although id love to have another supra someday.

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