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R/T mount shipping


Roostmonkey

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Jon, I wouldn't weld it in because it is not really necessary and 2 you won't have acess to the parking brake stuff up above it. There is also a fuel / brake line bracket up there if you kept the stock stuff. Plus there is alway an outside chance either the mount or one of the isolator bolts could break. It would be nice to be able to remove the part under those circumstances.

 

The one I made for my series 1 is more narrow than that unit. It has dead straight sides (no little wings down by the bolt holes) and is just wide enough to fit inbetween the protrusion and that metal ridge. The side of the mount is flush to the ridge.

 

diff_mount.jpg

 

Are sure you can't hammer that pig up into place?

What parking brake??? What fuel line bracket??? :wink:

 

I'm SURE that I could hammer it in place. But I don't need to. The car is upside down on a rotisserie so I can take my time and cut it to fit nicely. The reason for wanting to weld it is to use the structure of the mount to strengthen the trans tunnel. The mount is pretty damn stout. Just seems like if I welded it in then that would make the tunnel more stout, and since the control arm mounts are right there too, that might be a good thing.

 

It sounds like you did the right thing by making the mount narrower so you avoided all of this stuff.

 

Since I know you won't want to do that, I would weld a plate over the 3 mounting holes, cut that tab off so the front down piece is straight, then move the whole thing forward so it is flush to that metal lip. That should get the mount forward of the protrusion. You can then drill new mounting holes and call it a day.

Seems like just notching the mount is easier than all of that, because if you move it too far then there is a lip on the back of the trans tunnel that gets in the way. I'd have to grind the whole lip off all the way around the trans tunnel to get it to move into position.

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No, you just move it up to the lip. In your pic it looks to be about as far back off that lip as the width of the red part you marked to notch.

I'll have a look at that again later today. I think I tried it already and it wouldn't fit, but I'll check again and post whatever I find.

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Well I put the mount in my 77 280Z last night and it looks good. The only thing that I needed to do was to slot the bolt holes a bit so it would fit.

 

Here is what I did to put it in:

1 - put car on jacks

2 - removed the exhaust

3 - loosen the tranverse link inner bolts

4 - removed the rearend crossmember

5 - dropped the front part of the sway bar

6 - removed the 4 strap bolts and strap assembly

7 - remove 30 years of built up crud!!

8 - lowered the front of the diff so that the mount could be put in place

9 - installed the 4 old strap bolts into the 4 elongated mounting holes

10 - installed the crossmember

11 - tightened the transverse link inner bolts

12 - installed the sway bar

13 - installed the exhaust system

14 - tightened everything to specs

15 - take car off of jacks

 

Now it is time to take the car out and drive the #$%^ out of it!

 

Enjoy!

HB280ZT

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Well my order arrived :) I have only seen photos from my 3rd party state side buddy. Thanks RoostMonkey for 1. Making these, 2. Working with me to ship these to my mate Pete for collection when I visit him in June :)

 

great stuff and excellent service from another hybridz.org member

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Ya know, after looking through the Black Dragon catalog, seeing that the stock differential strap is $79.95 and you can get one of these with the GM mount for less money and it's WAY better.....it's all good! This forum and guys on it are awesome! Thanks for doing such a great job, taking time to make parts and sharing the info!!

 

On a side note, I just took a new Z06 for a test drive and it really makes me want to get my Z done! It's crazy fast and the 505HP was quite a kick, but the Z will turn heads like no other Vette! Since power to weight will be about the same, it'll be fun to play on the road courses! I want it done now!! :)

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