Racin_Jason Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 SO I am putting Ross' CV adapters (for 280zx CVs) and a set of 280zx CV on my 240Z right now. I went to bolt the outer CV shaft to the adapter and noticed there was a gap between them. The stub axle is hitting the center of CV shaft before the mounting point can make contact with the adapter. The protruding end cap on the CV shaft looks like it is made to possibly butt up against the stub axle..but I cant imagine this is how its supposed to be. Am I supposed have a gap between the mounting flanges of the adapter and CV when they are torqued down? This would put the load on the center cap of the CV shaft and not the mounting surface itself. Any direction while I still have some light to finish this would be appreciated Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 1, 2007 Author Share Posted April 1, 2007 After looking at it a bit more it sure seems like the stub axle is sitting too deeply into the bearing housing, hence the rear of it sticking out too far. Approximately 1/4" too far. After looking at the exploded view of the axles the only thing I can see that may be causing this is the lack of washers on either end of the bearing spacer in the housing. However my records show that these 2 washers were on 73+ cars though and mine is a 71. Two washers thickness seems to be about what I am lacking but I am not sure if the addition of these washers would even change the position of the stub axle in the housing. I see nothing else thats missing and no way for it to go together any differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 1, 2007 Author Share Posted April 1, 2007 The washers in question are labeled 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Your end caps are too deep. They have two or three different depth end caps out there, you must have the extra deep ones. If you have a diffshop, or axle shop close by, take a ride over and show them. I did that when I ran into that issue, and picked up a pair of end caps that were 1/2 that thick (the protruding part). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 1, 2007 Author Share Posted April 1, 2007 Ya know I never thought of that. I did pop the endcap off to see what was behind it though. There was a spring up against the inside of the endcap with tension on it. I figured modifying the endcap (or a shallower one) would change the tension on the spring so I left it at that. So an axle shop would have different endcaps on hand that would fit these particular CVs eh? Thanks much for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 I would like to know more about the washers on either side of the spacer. I was under the impression that the spacer was the only thing between the two bearings, hence it's extreme accuracy in spacing the bearings perfectly (aside from the 3 lengths of spacers - A, B, or C). Obviously the diagram shows spacers but I've never seen these, whether it was a 240, 260, or 280. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 Terry- I too knew nothing of these washers until I saw that diagram. It is from a online resource I just found called carfiche.com (very handy) Here is the page I cut from above.. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?5:i:15 It appears to be a copy of a Nissan factory master parts list for the parts counter guys. Aparently these washers started in June of 73 and were required when a certain stub axle was used, if Im reading it correctly. Thats all I know about them so far. I quit looking into them when I grabbed a tape measure and compared the spacer thickness with the distance between the inner and outer bearing seats. It does not appear that I could fit these washers if I tried so I am hoping to get somewhere with replacing the endcap tomarrow. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 One thing to keep in mind is that a washer placed externally to the bearings will space the companion flange outward, which would provide some relief. This washer would slide over the splined end after all bearings are assembled, and fit in-between the inner bearing and the companion flange. In fact, this method of "pushing" the stub further back into the companion flange would also work for an external washer on the wheel flange end as well. Instead of seating the bearing against the wheel flange, a washer placed between the outer bearing and the wheel flange (and it would require a very carefully fit washer with a proper chamfer) would gain the same net effect of allowing the companion flange to be extended more inboard (or axle more outboard in this case. Obviously, spline engagement and final bearing placement along the stub axle must be checked. This later method is probably one I would avoid though because of what I perceive as increasing the shear loading on the stub axle itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 I am seriously considering trying this washer method Terry. Finding one that will fit might be difficult though. So I called around today to find these CV endcaps that J.Soileou recommended and no dice. I called driveline places, nissan and finally a Zcar specialty shop. Not a single one of them could source these caps and couldnt tell me where to get them. It was suggested the only way to get them would be used from someone. At this point I am considering taking a hammer to my endcaps to try and sink 'em in a 1/4" so I can move on with the work at hand. Either that or trying to source a washer that fits between the outer bearing and companion flange and is thick enough. It doesnt look like massaging the endcaps will hurt anything. The spring it holds in is very low tension. Im just not sure the steel is thin enough to be able to simply crush it down a bit and have it remain even at the spring seat. Im about to go have a look right now. I need to get the rear done and move on Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 I would shoot for an SAE washer (they are usually pretty thick - 1/8" or so), and are grade 8. Slight dressing on the flat sides of a grinder wheel to smooth the washer's sides, perhaps using a die grinder on the ID to make it fit nicely, and you should have a dandy washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I happen to have an example of EACH type of endcap. I do not know what years these came from, but they are different. The Shorter cap measures ~>5/8" tall. The Longer cap measures ~<1" tall. I mocked this up using Ross' CV welded CV adaptors and the Longer cap won't fit. I will have to modify it slightly to clear the stub nut. About the Parts diagram showing washers on the inside of the bearings(on the spacer). I just recently pulled all of the stubs and bearings out of ALL of my spare rear strut assemblies, including the current track 240Z for a bearing replacement. I have not seen ONE inner washer on any of my assemblies ranging in years from 1971, 1972, 1973, 1976. Some of them had Copper crush washers under the Nut... but never any washers on the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 Interesting photos. Good info! About the Parts diagram showing washers on the inside of the bearings(on the spacer). I just recently pulled all of the stubs and bearings out of ALL of my spare rear strut assemblies, including the current track 240Z for a bearing replacement. I have not seen ONE inner washer on any of my assemblies ranging in years from 1971, 1972, 1973, 1976. Some of them had Copper crush washers under the Nut... but never any washers on the inside. Thanks for verifying this. I'd never seen any as well, and to me would defeat the purpose of an accurately machined spacer between the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I happen to have an example of EACH type of endcap. I do not know what years these came from, but they are different.... The sheet metal grease cover used on the Z31 300ZX CV (non-turbo) axle has the smaller endcap than the 280ZX Turbo CV axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 Great info guys thanks for posting it. My CVs are from a 280zx and indeed do have the bigger endcap protrusion. I went looking for a washer to space out the companion flange a bit and I couldnt find anyone that had anything. I even went to an industrial fastener supply company who is known to be 'the' place to find this stuff..no dice. Its looking like I have exhausted my local resources at this point. Maybe I can find some 300zx endcaps from a member and have them shipped. As for today though I am going to go and try to 'massage' my large endcaps enough to get a flush mount. p.s. If anyone has a pair of the shorter endcaps and could help me out by shipping them to me, that would be great. Shoot me a PM if so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I ran into the exact same problem with those end caps (and was told by the maker of the adapters to just tighten the adapter nuts and crush the end cap aganst the stub nut which i thought no friggin way!), and between that problem and needing to do some work to the cv axle joints/boots I finally said fugg it and threw the halfshafts back in. It got to the point it was just a PITA and waste of time for me to mess with any further. I have a couple posts a couple months back in links below on the writeup on it all and pictures of me going through it all and trying to rebuild/take apart zxt cv shafts. In the future when it needs it a Vette rearend is going in the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116202 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116211 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 When I installed mine I just crushed the cap and cut the inner spring on the driver side in half. This will reduce the tension on the cap to allow the shaft to pop in place easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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