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NA 280Z to HY35 beast project


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Here I will chronicle the progress and process of creating a 280ZXT using the stock L28E motor. Why the stock motor? Well, I already have it, it's been done successfully before, and when I melt the pistons I can rebuild it with forged ones. I am however attempting to use parts that will still be useful on the next rebuild.

 

This is what I'm starting with. My 77 280z with stock drive line.

oldskool280.jpg

 

 

I've spent all winter amassing the parts needed for this upgrade.

Here are most of them: (to be described in detail later)

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/the_goodies.jpg

 

Start of project before tear down begins:

project_1.jpg

 

"Before" shot of engine bay:

project_2.jpg

 

Removing the head and manifolds as one piece to make disassembly easier.

I'm going to leave the bottom end alone for now because the compression is 155 PSI +/- 2 PSI on all cylinders.

project_3.jpg

 

Test fitting the turbo to get an idea how the thing will fit. The turbo

is a Holset HY35 from 2003.

HY35_TEST_FIT1.jpg

HY35_TEST_FIT2.jpg

 

Oil line and AN fittings for turbo. I used an adapter on the turbo side

rather than re tapping it.

HY35_OIL_LINE.jpg

 

I found more than a few bolts chemically welded where aluminum was involved. The heads consequently snapped off and needed drilled out.

fix_head1.jpg

 

I was very pleased with how well the "helicoil" kit from the parts store

worked. Here's one of the thermostat housing holes after repair.

thread_repair.jpg

 

I used a light duty wire brush to clean up the chambers.

cleaned_chambers.jpg

 

 

OK, the helicoil only works if you don't make a riduculous mess out of the

stuck bolt when you drill it out like I did to the water inlet. I happily was able

to fix it though. I drilled and tapped the holes to 1/2-13 and then made my own

inside/outside threaded inserts. This has held up fine and saved me from buying a new front cover.

FIX_WATER_INLET_1.jpg

FIX_WATER_INLET_2.jpg

 

Hear are some shots of the HY35 with the housings off. Something you

actually don't see pictures of too often.

HY35_CENTER_SECTION.jpg

HY35_TURBINE_WHEEL.jpg

 

Here the wastegate opening was enlarged from 18mm to 28mm.

HY35_PORTED_WASTEGATE.jpg

 

 

 

I brazed a 1/2 NPT bung onto the stock oil pan.

OIL_PAN_DRAIN_1.jpg

OIL_PAN_DRAIN_2.jpg

 

Here I'm halfway through repairing the front cross member. I also added a sort of bracket to serve the following functions:

Support the intercooler

Support and protect the oil cooler

Give a place to solidly bolt driving lights

Backup the center of the urethane air dam

Provide furture anchor points for a belly pan

 

 

TURBO_PROJECT_8.jpg

TURBO_PROJECT_9.jpg

TURBO_PROJECT_10.del.jpg

TURBO_PROJECT_11.jpg

TURBO_PROJECT_12.jpg

 

Here's the finished repair and bracket:

TURBO_PROJECT_13.jpg

 

Intercooler mounting brackets. I choose this intercooler for it's efficient vertical design and because it's not so big as to slow spool up.

INTERCOOLER_MOUNTING.jpg

 

The block striped down and ready for painting/reassemble:

TURBO_PROJECT_15.jpg

 

Deck cleaned and ARP studs installed. These studs really make aligning the head a snap.

TURBO_PROJECT_16.jpg

 

I'm using Beck/Arnley head gasket from Autozone. Yes, I sprayed it with copper coat. I wanted extra insurance against leaks. So far so good at the 1000 mile mark.

L28_HEAD_GASKET.jpg

 

Sexy front shot of the motor sporting full stainless socket head bolts.

TURBO_PROJECT_17.jpg

 

Chopping off any extraneous bosses off the manifold:

MANIFOLD_SMOOTHING.jpg

 

Not a bad looking intake:

CLEAN_INTAKE.jpg

 

Custom three layer heat shield, stainless then 3/8" ceramic insulation, toped off with a carbon fiber looking ceramic fabric:

INTAKE_HEAT_SHIELD.jpg

 

Testing how I wanted the turbo clocked. Manifold wrapped to increase exhaust velocity and keep intake heat soak down.

HY35_S30_FITUP.jpg

 

I also made this home brew turbo blanket for the turbine housing. It's made from stainless sheet with welded hose clamps, holding ceramic insulation around the turbo. It works really well to keep radiant heat down:

TURBO_PROJECT_18.jpg

 

A shot of the "Ron Tyler" diff mount. Something that I consider a prerequisite

for adding lots of power.

TURBO_PROJECT_14.jpg

 

ACT HD pressure plate and organic street disc in 240mm size. Supposibly good for 400 ft/lbs. I'm using the stock hydralics and they easily move this PP through it's range.

ACT_240MM_DISC.jpg

ACT_240MM_PP.jpg

 

Frontal shot of how the turbo looks in there, plus all the sparkling newness.

TURBO_PROJECT_19.jpg

 

The "after" shot of how it all looks together. You can see my eBay Tial knockoff BOV. It works great and for $45 with stainless mounting flange, it can't be beat. Oh, and it sounds good too. The intercooler piping is 2.5" stainless.

TURBO_PROJECT_20.jpg

 

Here is my fixture for TIG welding the exhaust and intercooler plumbing:

TURBO_EXHAUST_TIG.jpg

 

The most critical weld I had to make, joining 304 stainless to cast iron. I preheated the cast iron to 800 or so degrees. After the pieces were tacked, I capped the ends and purged with argon. It welded very smoothly, almost easier than plain stainless. Once the weld was complete I wrapped it in insulation to make it cool very slowly:

TURBO_EXHAUST_ELBOW.jpg

 

 

The finished downpipe, first naked, then wrapped. I placed the WBO2 sensor as far as I could from the turbo so it wouldn't get too hot. On that note, I cannot stress the convenience of having WB sensor enough. Your going to really make turning hard on your self without it IMO.

TURBO_EXHAUST_DOWNPIPE.jpg

TURBO_EXHAUST_DOWNPIPE_2.jpg

 

Here is the completed exhaust in all it's stainless, v-band glory.

TURBO_EXHAUST_COMPLETE_1.jpg

TURBO_EXHAUST_COMPLETE_2.jpg

TURBO_EXHAUST_COMPLETE_3.jpg

TURBO_EXHAUST_COMPLETE_4.jpg

 

 

 

Well thats it for now. Currently it running great and is scary quick.

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