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Went to the dyno with the GT42r today...


TimZ

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.You got flow, you don't need Boost. I think Tim's boost level will suprise a lot of people as well, given the numbers he's punching out!

 

Too true, my brothers race car has an Audi 1.8 turbo engine kicking out 470bhp @14psi boost.....he spent weeks working on the head and intake manifold.

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Hi Tim, I was running the innovate dynamic had on their dyno, and I was running my techedge at the same time. I th8ink the techedge is a more accurate sensor(The NTK sensor you give your first born for)

The plug gap did not have any affect on the car that I could see, that is when I got the idea that the boost was not blowing out the spark and there was another problem. I started at .028, then to .025 and finally.020 on the plug gap. I did note that when I was looking at the plug fire on the scope with the gap to .020 I could see that the voltage was being crowbared @ the plug. I was beginning to see not the spark of the plug, but rather a squarewave output at the plug that was intermittrantly showing its ugly head, so fo me .020 is just not enough gap. I am corrently testing my new driver @ .030 that is about 80 volts per .001 gap to bring the total voltage differential required to about 2400.00 Volts to spark the plug. Then there is the rotor gap to contend with, say .025 that will require higher Voltage potential to jump the rotor and then the plug, another 2K volts so that is a total of about 5K volts or so to spark the plug. Then add in the added cylinder pressure when the car is runnig, and we are looking at somewhere of about 20-25K Volts under boost minimum. BIG PITA. I have some components on order for the driver. I was running the FET driver chip at about 80% dutycycle and it was getting hot. I had to go this route as the chip was an inverting output, so when connected to the FET driver transistor, if I did not watch it closly it would burn out the coil and the driver. I have done all of the above thank you LOL, two coils toast, one driver transistor, and one transistor driver chip. I guess I am a little slow at figuring out just what the heck is going on LOL oh well.

The waste gate spring, well I am still not decided on that one yet. I am running only one line to the waste gate currently. I have been told that the dual hose configuration is better for control of the gate. I have tried this setup one time but I was having problems with the recirculation valve. The car would not boost over 12psi so that is when I started reverting back to a known working setup. I need to try this again with thedual lines.

I was able to verify one thing with the soft spring, the TIAL 64mm gate will not vent all of my exhaust to 7K rpms. I was sure it would not, 1 1/4" tube to vent all the exhaust of the engine, that is about 300hp @ stock boost levels.

Tim, you just may want to consider removing the bumper from the car when you are on the dyno. I did this the last sesson, and it really helped significantly. The car still got hot, but nowhere close to where it was running. The heat soak the first dyno run was incredible, and a little scary, I think I did do some damage in the way of longevity of the turbo it got so hot, and that was the big thing with the AFR's, when I got them to 12:1 or so the exhaust turbine was not glowing so much LOL, and the car seemed to run better overall.

Anyway, my parts will be in thursday for the coil driver and I will start at it again and see how it goes.

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My kid found the glowing turbo on Jeff's car immensely entertaining!

My photos have some sort of chromatic shift, so his turbo (er, and those rear brake rotors from the run where he left the e-brake engaged...) look pink of all things.

 

Maybe JeffP is revealing something here: "The Pink Turbo Club"

 

LOL

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.020 or thereabouts from what I saw.

 

Define "any kind of boost"... the numbers Jeff is making is with boost in double digit numbers that all begin with '1'...

 

That's tight, .020 is good for 30+psi on mine.

 

Any kind of boost would be 15+. A 9 psi srping only got me to 18 psi before I started loosing boost in the upper rpms.

 

Hope he gets the miss worked out.

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  • 9 months later...

Hey Tim, I know this is an old thread but can you post another vid of your dyno pulls. The old link to Youtube doesn't seem to work. I love that thing because it's a testament to what the L motor is capable of. I've searched quite a bit on most of your threads but didn't see if you stated who did your head work and the extent of it? Would you be willing to share that kind of info with a fellow enthusiast? I want to get mine done but cant make up my mind if I want to use Rebello, Braap, or, 1 fast z, or Sunbelt.

My thinking is, a little advice from someone with 600+ WHP can't hurt. I too have an N42 head and a F54 block but I plan on running the stock crank. My main concern is with the head, starting with a competent machine shop and/or porter. Thanks!

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P.S. Any other vids of the car would be very cool too! I know you don't want to tear up the driveline components at the track, but did you ever try to see what the car would do at the track?

 

Base on the HP and Weight of the car can someone guesstamate what the car would run?

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Hey Tim, I know this is an old thread but can you post another vid of your dyno pulls. The old link to Youtube doesn't seem to work. I love that thing because it's a testament to what the L motor is capable of. I've searched quite a bit on most of your threads but didn't see if you stated who did your head work and the extent of it? Would you be willing to share that kind of info with a fellow enthusiast? I want to get mine done but cant make up my mind if I want to use Rebello, Braap, or, 1 fast z, or Sunbelt.

My thinking is, a little advice from someone with 600+ WHP can't hurt. I too have an N42 head and a F54 block but I plan on running the stock crank. My main concern is with the head, starting with a competent machine shop and/or porter. Thanks!

 

I've put in a help request with YouTube - that vid was working as recently as a couple of weeks ago. Don't know why it stopped working.

 

I had a local guy do the port and chamber work - there are some pics in this thread:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129940

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Tim, in that thread you linked to you mentioned that these pistons

Piston1.jpg

were "a pretty good match" to this head's combustion chamber:

n42chamber3.jpg

 

The context of the conversation was quench, and you said that despite the lack of squish (relatively stock CC's) they were a good match. At the time when I first read it, I hadn't noticed... but is the dish in those pistons regular and even in depth, or is it biased to one side to form a more evenly disc- or pancake-shaped combustion chamber? It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but I suspect not, and if so.. then... well, I wonder :D

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Tim, in that thread you linked to you mentioned that these pistons

Piston1.jpg

were "a pretty good match" to this head's combustion chamber:

n42chamber3.jpg

 

The context of the conversation was quench, and you said that despite the lack of squish (relatively stock CC's) they were a good match. At the time when I first read it, I hadn't noticed... but is the dish in those pistons regular and even in depth, or is it biased to one side to form a more evenly disc- or pancake-shaped combustion chamber? It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but I suspect not, and if so.. then... well, I wonder :D

 

The piston dish is even and symmetrical, save for the little valve relief cuts.

What is it you are wondering about?

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I'll go out on a limb here, b/c I have a feeling it's the same thing I'm wondering.

 

Why do you call it a "good match" when the pistons are of a stock style dish, and the heads are "relatively stock CC". I (as he might be) am curious what makes it a good match "despite the lack of squish", and despite not being matched to the combustion chambers?

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I'll go out on a limb here, b/c I have a feeling it's the same thing I'm wondering.

 

Why do you call it a "good match" when the pistons are of a stock style dish, and the heads are "relatively stock CC". I (as he might be) am curious what makes it a good match "despite the lack of squish", and despite not being matched to the combustion chambers?

 

Ummm, because the dish is shaped the same as the combustion chamber? And I'm able to run 26psi without detonation? On 94 octane pump gas? And it makes good power?

 

I guess I'm not seeing where you are heading with this.

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OK so my branch just broke, lol

 

Somehow I wasn't looking at your heads, but MONZTER's P90, aka not matched to dished pistons. So I'm not sure where the confusion is, makes sense to me now. Never ye mind.

 

Okay - sorry if I got too defensive. When this thread first came out I got outright accused of making the results up by some "people" on zcar.com. Didn't set well with me.

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Excellent thank you getting that checked out I was starting to have withdrawls.

I think where the confusion lies where on the other thread they talk about keeping the squish area relatively small so that the mixture burns quicker because it's in a concentrated area. Where by your design both the head and the piston have a large dish and more of an area to burn the fuel. I hope i touched on that right. If not please correct me.

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With a N42 head, that's unbelievable...what are you running for engine management?

 

It's a TEC3r.

The dish does tend to concentrate the mixture more in the middle, but to maintain a 7.5:1 CR with the increased stroke the TDC volume has to go somewhere.

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