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HybridZ

2JZGTE vs 2JZGE


JustinOlson

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That "probzilla" is backhalved and on nitrous. Very cool car, but not very comparable. Take a look at Z-Gad's car. He's running the Nissan R200 rear end with Z31 CV axel conversion. He's running a bit of nitrous on his 2jz with a 76gts turbo (very close to the gt4202, just a slightly larger inducer diameter:

 

71 240z 2JZGTE TH400 ...(8.915 @ 153.60)

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery...00&ppuser=7981

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/a...e90005d70d.htm

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  • 3 months later...

i just found this thread through a search and thought i bring it up from the graveyard as the people in this thread seem extremely knowledgeable.

 

i currently just stumbled across a GE motor, tranny, harness, and all sensors for $600. the motor has 65000 miles on it and is said to be in running condition. now, my question is: should i scrap the GE head and go with a GTE head or keep the GE head, do a stage 1 port job with a 274 cam? i read earlier that the GE head does in fact flow better, but i would rather spend the extra money and over build a motor than under build it and break something. my power goal is 600whp on pump gas. at 18 years old i can't afford to break 2jz parts...they're expensive!!! thanks guys

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but i would rather spend the extra money and over build a motor than under build it and break something. my power goal is 600whp on pump gas. at 18 years old i can't afford to break 2jz parts...they're expensive!!! thanks guys

No need to "build" a 2JZ to make to make 600rwhp on pump gas, just add an alky kit and the right bolt-ons. Last Wed night I trapped 139.65mph and with a weight of 3,050lbs, thats about 650rwhp. It is a bone stock JDM GTE with stock USDM cams and old-school T72/p-trim @ 27+psi. A more efficient GT turbo and mild 264 cams on a stock long-block will meet your goal and be ultra-reliable.

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No need to "build" a 2JZ to make to make 600rwhp on pump gas, just add an alky kit and the right bolt-ons. Last Wed night I trapped 139.65mph and with a weight of 3,050lbs, thats about 650rwhp. It is a bone stock JDM GTE with stock USDM cams and old-school T72/p-trim @ 27+psi. A more efficient GT turbo and mild 264 cams on a stock long-block will meet your goal and be ultra-reliable.
That is AWESOME Scottie.We are looking foward to seeing you and your RX7 in March.Jerry
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Race gas, stock cams, a bunch of boost, and a decent turbo I made 720RWHP on the stock shortblock (well tuned). Guys with my exact same setup swapped to 264 cams, retuned, and made a hair over 800RWHP. Scottie is cam limited right now I promise :D

 

GE vs GTE - GE is a fine motor but there are fewer turbo manifolds for it and the stock intake extends over the valve cover. It also has a distributor. The distributor can be removed, the intakes and exhaust can be figured out, but in the end it's work. Ask someone with a turbo GE in a Supra if they wish they had just spent the added coin and gone with a GTE and you'll find out they wish they had. I have driven and tuned SC300 with a turbo GE and they ran fine but there were certainly some quirks. Just be sure to know what you're getting into with the GE and be SURE it's not a VVT motor as those had weaker rods and were even harder to work with.

 

All that said, even getting ready to run 800+ RWHP on my car I never once thought about "building" the motor. Most guys I knew who dove in for pistons, rods, overbores, etc. wished that they hadn't. I had intended to keep my block stock and leave well enough alone with whatever HP I got from my ported head and cam, I was evengoing to go with a smaller turbo. You do not need to go crazy with these motors. On pump I did 550RWHP and around 615-620 with alky spraying for street driving. In a Z that's a potential death ride! :D

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Mechanically very similar but very different engine management system scheme from the factory.

 

One thing to know when potentially buying either is to check the cylinder deck and head surface for erosion as I've seen a ton of them with deep enough gouges on the mating surfaces sometimes making both almost worthless.

 

I've watched a couple of techs get fired when they discovered the gouges after handing in the estimate and getting the green light because they went for the JB weld...............which works only about 25% of the time.

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does anybody have somewhat close to definate numbers as to when the rods and pistons fail? i dont trust another other type of injection other than fuel. i would like to be making this 600whp on 93 pump gas and a nice safe original motor build. but, if you guys say these motors take power adders that well and reliably i'll trust you and stay away from the built internals. so, can anybody tell me what the consensus is on the GTE vs GE head is?

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My '02 IS300 has some sort of hybrid -GE motor with -GTE internals. I'll report here when I find out the exact configuration.

 

It dyno'ed at 641hp with a T66, -GE head with HKS 264 Cams - It now has a T72 BB, header, and sheetmetal intake.

 

I like this motor's "quirks".

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The GE head is actually supposed to flow a little more from what I've read. Its pretty trivial getting rid of the distributor and going COP. I can consistently find complete 2JZGE motors locally for $600-800 so I don't see the point in messing with JDM GTE's.

 

Justin

 

same deal with me, its a non vvt-i GE for $600...as long as those internals with hold like they have been stated to hold 700+hp, this swap is a definate

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I found out more about my IS300's setup today - It's the stock -GE motor with the VVTI disabled (this merely involves replacing the VVTI intake cam sprocket with a plain one and blocking an oil hole) with HKS 264 cams installed. It has the -GTE rods and pistons swapped in, lowering the CR to ~8.5.

 

According to my source, the -GE block and crank are identical to the -GTE (with the exception of NO oil piston squirters and no drilled holes for oiling turbos), and he also confirms that the stock -GE heads are reputed to have a little better flow than the -GTEs, and the -GTE rods are an upgrade. -GTE pistons are Hyperutectic and obviously have proven to be very durable.

 

There are nice stainless turbo headers readily available...Aftermarket intakes are rare. My intake was fabricated from the stocker cut off and an aftermarket -GTE plenum welded on. The drive-by wire throttle body was replaced with a Q45 unit.

 

Obviously if the Lexus -GE motor is turbo'ed, some sort of programmable EFI is required. My car has an E-Motive TEC3.

 

It must be noted that I'm talking about the 2001+ Lexus version of the 2JZ-GE. This motor does not have a distributor, rather 3 coils located between the cam covers. Most people who use aftermarket ECUs use the stock igniter and coils that evidently are well sufficient for big HP.

 

I have heard that the 2001-5 Lexus motors can be had pretty cheap.

 

The differences between the 2JZs and L motors are pretty vast - I'm already a convert! I'm looking to be back on the road with the IS this week if the driveline shop's time estimate for my on-piece, 1350 u-jointed custom driveshaft is true - can't wait.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Mechanically very similar but very different engine management system scheme from the factory.

 

One thing to know when potentially buying either is to check the cylinder deck and head surface for erosion as I've seen a ton of them with deep enough gouges on the mating surfaces sometimes making both almost worthless.

 

I've watched a couple of techs get fired when they discovered the gouges after handing in the estimate and getting the green light because they went for the JB weld...............which works only about 25% of the time.

 

Doh!!......wrong engine family.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Forgot to mention, if you join Supraforums DO NOT say "I want XXXX amount of HP but I want it reliable becuase I dont have any money I am 18 years old" please please please do not let them know that...if you do better put your flame suit on....I am going to be honest if you are worried about affording parts to replace you MIGHT want to hold off for a while...the parts of the 2JZ are not cheap, there are really only 2-3 decent dealerships that have parts left in the country for them (Champion Toyota is extremely Supra friendly) let alone turning that engine into a reliable 600hp....I also recommend checking out http://www.mkiv.com...there is some great information there and tech articles that will really help you eventually reach your goals....the 2JZ is an amazing motor but most guys do not reveal how much money it honestly takes to make those motors as powerful as they are.....there is a saying in tuning cars you can only pick two of the following three: reliability, power, low cost....good luck and really educate yourself before pulling the trigger!

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The thing is for most people here, the stock internals with factory cams will do everything they will every need it to do. Theres really not a huge amount of work needed for a 2JZGTE to be ready to get a 240z into the 9's power wise. In that case, they are very affordable.

 

Beyond the longblock, you will need the following:

 

Exhaust manifold

Turbo sized for the power you want to make

3"+ Downpipe and exhaust

oil feed and return lines

air filter

boost tubes, clamps, and couplers

intercooler

properly sized fuel pump, injectors, and lines, regulator, and rail.

 

Its really all of the sub systems that cost the most money, not the motor itself.

 

Justin

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The thing is for most people here, the stock internals with factory cams will do everything they will every need it to do.

Thanks for reemphasizing that point and if someone was looking to pump up an L28ET to say 400-450hp, they would need to spend $$$ on everything in Justin's list except the exhaust manifold.

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