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There's always a cure for displacement


dosquattro

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4G RWD? Wow, that's cool! I'd still want the displacement and toughness of a 2JZ but a RWD 4G is pretty neat. What I'd really like, and I hear it's been done, is an AWD Colt. Kewl motor and lots of parts for it. Be interested to see how this works out.

 

Why bother???

 

Subaru Hatch, came with an EA81 1.8l OHV engine, should be able to retrofit just about any 80s subaru driveline onto it with ease, use an adapter plate for the 80s tranny to bolt on an EJ series engine (read: all subarus newer than the Loyales have EJ series engines.. impreza, (and WRX and STI) legacy, forester, etc etc. they made several variants on them, (1.8 JDM only, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5, DOHC *should* bolt onto any engine) but they all have the same flywheel housing.

 

The EJ swap is a very common 80s subaru mod; there are plenty of Subaru RX's around with a locking center diff and fulltime AWD.

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4G RWD? Wow, that's cool! I'd still want the displacement and toughness of a 2JZ but a RWD 4G is pretty neat. What I'd really like, and I hear it's been done, is an AWD Colt. Kewl motor and lots of parts for it. Be interested to see how this works out.

 

 

it has been done !! there are a handful running around and probably twice as many under the knife

 

http://forum.4g61t.org/

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well not much of an update besides I picked up a turbo shortblock for some old wheels I had two weeks ago. Then picked up some EVO8 pistons and cams for dirt cheap. Pistons will go right in but my 1G rods need to be worked alittle as the EVO wrist pins won't fit. Just the same as putting 2G pistons on 1G rods. Factory forged pistons for 85 shipped and then 60 for the machine work from Mr Weir. But here's a little visual teaser...

Dixies chicks don't know nothing about wide open spaces...

Picture058.jpg

I could fit my entire forearm from the radiator support to the motor mount which is still another two inches to the block. Feels like I'm working on my old civic again with so much space in the engine bay.

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50/50...

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stock thermostat housing still fit and no oil pan clearance problems as I'm about an inch or two behind the crossmember

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only issue I met so far was the oil filter want to sit right where stock passenger side engine mount is. No biggy though cause it's coming out I'm making new mounts to sit further back on the frame rails.

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T4 60-1 clears and no issues should arise with the downpipe or chargepiping besides moving the alternator to the otherside of the block and ditching the power steering pump. Moving the alternator isn't that hard as they make a bracket to do that right now.

Picture062.jpg

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It doesn't sit as far back because it's a transverse motor design, hence why the block isn't right up against the firewall. But it's not as much mass as a V8 so it shouldn't hurt it too much.

 

And the 4G63 mitsu motor is one of the most reliable turbo 4 cylinders I've worked with myself. And it's definitely not weak, and might possibly have more power potential than a 5.0 motor, and I'm a ford fan so I'm not just saying that.

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The motor is just set in there. I was just checking to see what kind of issues I would run into mounting it. If you notice the engine is sitting in there kinda crooked. I just tossed it in there to see what it'll look like. It's not light but I lifted it out of the back of my wife's minivan when I got it home. The same way you see it now as a complete longblock with nothing removed. Now try to do that with V8 and make sure you have a phone close by to call 911 and your chiro. lol.

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Do you have any idea where the shifter is going to come out with the engine that far forward? Not to mention tunnel clearance above the trans.

 

I'd also be a little worried about hood clearance.

 

You really need to get your transmission on there and check drive line angles before you will be able to even guesstimate the final motor position. That motor seems to have a large number of interference points. Engine tilt makes a huge difference in terms of clearance pretty much everywhere, and it is the rear diff that will determine the engine tilt.

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It was just for shits and giggles basically. Just to see what it'll look like. I'm not actually making mounts right now without the tranny. That would be stupid on my part to start doing that. I did found some stuff to relocated the thermostat housing to the front of the engine and the alternator relocation kit. It looks really simple so I'm most likely just gonna make them myself instead of paying 125 for the alternator kit and the thermostat kit would probably take me a whole 30 minutes to make.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd go Megasquirt before I'd go AEM EMS. I'm just gonna run the stock electronics for right now to keep things simple and cheap. I scored a complete uncut engine harness and all sensors for 140. I just need the larger stuff now like the W58 tranny and bell housing as I have everything else now. Just got my modified intake manifold today! My son is ready to pop out any day now so the project is gonna slow down more then it is now for alittle bit. Not to mention my OT spending money I usually buy all my parts with is going towards my little vacation to the Classic Japanese car show in Long Beach in October. Yeeeaaah!

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  • 1 month later...

Question?

 

Picture054.jpg

 

The instake manifold faces the wrong way, how do you plan on taking care of this?

 

If your making an IM cool but otherwise your options are very limited....

 

Another option would be to have the throttle body side welded with a plate and cut the wall off of the front end of the IM then devise a way to bolt the TB on...

 

Im just interested in what your plan was no matter how you do it, its possible...

 

 

-PSi

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The instake manifold faces the wrong way, how do you plan on taking care of this?

 

If your making an IM cool but otherwise your options are very limited....

 

Another option would be to have the throttle body side welded with a plate and cut the wall off of the front end of the IM then devise a way to bolt the TB on...

 

Im just interested in what your plan was no matter how you do it, its possible...

 

 

-PSi

Easy fix that's been done a lot. There's an evergrowing RWD 4G63 community and each project either welds a new flange in front, does their own intake or buys pre-fabbed intakes for these apps.

 

I believe the turbo intakes have tapered plenums (maybe NA's are the same) so simply welding a flange on front isn't good. I don't intend to do it this way.

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Easy fix that's been done a lot. There's an evergrowing RWD 4G63 community and each project either welds a new flange in front, does their own intake or buys pre-fabbed intakes for these apps.

 

I believe the turbo intakes have tapered plenums (maybe NA's are the same) so simply welding a flange on front isn't good. I don't intend to do it this way.

 

 

Aye... If its tapered not a good idea.... Although im not sure that matters with FI... I could see how a tappered IM would help going small towards #4 ristricting air into the cyl (as not to lean out) but that would be on a vacume system, your forcing air into all 4 cyl's...

 

I may be wrong...

 

-PSi

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I've actually already have the intake manifold covered. Picked up a mod'd manifold that another guy used on his rwd setup 4G in a Starion. Everything with this had been to a one finger crawl with my son that was born 8/29 and my build budget has seen better days. I've been reading up on 1UF-ZE's also. They sound too good to be true but using a manual tranny seem like more work as the only bell housing makers is a place in Australia.

I've got my harness pretty much all done but not sure how I'm gonna fit the harness though the exist harness hole in the firewall. As there's more meat to the 4G harness then the L28's harness. Where there's a will...there's a way though!

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I've actually already have the intake manifold covered. Picked up a mod'd manifold that another guy used on his rwd setup 4G in a Starion. Everything with this had been to a one finger crawl with my son that was born 8/29 and my build budget has seen better days. I've been reading up on 1UF-ZE's also. They sound too good to be true but using a manual tranny seem like more work as the only bell housing makers is a place in Australia.

I've got my harness pretty much all done but not sure how I'm gonna fit the harness though the exist harness hole in the firewall. As there's more meat to the 4G harness then the L28's harness. Where there's a will...there's a way though!

 

I picked up a Firewall gasket of fair size compared to other Toyota ones I've seen for 99 cents a piece at Princess Auto.

 

Check your regular cheap-o parts or tools place, they will have these for 1.99 if they're not on sale.

 

OH WAIT, they'd be less in price in the US because even though our dollars are the same, we haven't benefited from it much at the retail level. :(

 

Anyways, it will be good for what you're using it for. You might just have to use a die grinder to increase the size of the original hole.

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