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Whos got a Welded Rear Differential?


streeteg

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Well heres how the story goes.... my RB powered Z is about to get some extra power via some go fast goodies under the hood---The car is purely a street car. Something to have fun in on the road on the weekends, turn some heads, go to meets and work on/have a good time with. I certainly do not need to have a 1400 dollar quaife and I am having trouble sourcing a nice CLSD for my R200.

 

My application: Spirited pulls/some drag, no autox no road courses

My power Goal: 350-375 RWHP

My questions:

 

1. Who is using a welded rear differential?

2. What has the lifespan been of that diff?

3. How does this compare to a phantom Grip particularly in terms of reliability

 

 

Essentially I have an R200 sitting in my garage collecting dust and I know it is stronger then the 30yr old r180 i have in the car now. I am looking for the most reliable way to preserve the diff in spritied pulls and get traction to both wheels.

 

Thoughts, Comments, questions anything--- thanks in advance

 

-Eric

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Phantom Grip is a POS, don't bother. The Nissan CLSD is available through http://www.differentials.com and http://www.reiderracing.com and runs $550 or so. KAAZ and Cusco LSDs are more, but also a better design than the Nissan unit.

 

Welded diff should hold up very well if properly welded.

 

Have you read the diff sticky I wrote? If not, it has a lot of info on your different options.

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I wouldn't recommend a welded diff on the street.

 

You're getting old... :-)

 

I drove on the street with one for two years and the current Nismo R-Tune 1.5 way LSD in my 350Z pretty much acts like a welded diff with it setup for 100% lock (I need to fix that). I'm getting tired of people running up to me in parking lots telling me something is broken in the back of my car.

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I'm also new to the board, but have done a good bit of searching the internet resently for a good low cost differential. I found the R-200 LSD differential PG- Power Brute LOM59-12 at Reider Racing. However, when I called to places an order I was told that they have had supplier problems and are uncertain if they will be able to get anymore of these. If anyone has a line on an alternative please let me know.

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I'm also new to the board, but have done a good bit of searching the internet resently for a good low cost differential. I found the R-200 LSD differential PG- Power Brute LOM59-12 at Reider Racing. However, when I called to places an order I was told that they have had supplier problems and are uncertain if they will be able to get anymore of these. If anyone has a line on an alternative please let me know.

 

EXACTLY---the only differentials that "fit into my price range" have been out of stock for a while...

 

As for the rain---the car will never be driven in the rain. Ever. So only dry summer pavement for me---My only question was reliability and a welded diffs ability to withstand power in straight line acceleration. I dont want to ruin a perfectly good r200 by welding it but it seems that that is not the case.

 

jmortensen-- I spent a lot of time reviewing your write up on all the diffs. Very informative and I give you "props" for taking time out to write that up. But guaging by my needs for the car my questions of reliability werent really answered specifically in your thread....

 

That being said I will be brining my R200 to get welded at this place called Import Intellegence in PA where they have done plenty in the past. Not too shabby for about 50-100 bucks...

 

Thanks guys!

 

-Eric

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If you do mind some chirping around corners you will be okay, Have used spools in 12 bolt, and 9 inch on the street with out any issues. You do have to careful in the rain. The R200 welded has done fine for us and believe me we have put in through the test. I would note on welding the unit up, have then to weld up the spyder gears as well. I welded then up and did a complete pass around the unit.

 

John

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I ran a welded diff in my truck for about a year before buying a locker. No problems in the rain. Maybe if I was 80 and decreped it would have been too much. I run one in my 71' 240 but it is coming out for a lsd. It does clunk on tight parking lot type turns but when rolling is fine other than a little extra push.

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If you do mind some chirping around corners you will be okay, Have used spools in 12 bolt, and 9 inch on the street with out any issues. You do have to careful in the rain. The R200 welded has done fine for us and believe me we have put in through the test. I would note on welding the unit up, have then to weld up the spyder gears as well. I welded then up and did a complete pass around the unit.

 

John

 

 

wait I am a noob at differentials (Had a honda before). I thought all you did was weld the spyder gears? what else do you have to seam together?

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Guest Britt Brown

I race a GT-Lite road racer and use a Detroit Locker. Much less expensive and very effective. You will be glad you did the first time you try to push it in any direction but straight. Just remember to roll in and out of the power and it will last forever and you won't snap axle's

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I ran a welded R180 in my ITS class raceer for years. It never failed. It was the devil to push around in the pits. It encouraged a very aggressive technique to drive but it was cheap. It seemed to loosen the half shaft bolts pretty often, and we went for some pretty wild slides sometimes. I am sure it was the diff, not the driver! It was almost impossible to autocross with, I really had to toss it into tight and long turns. It was a wrecking yard 240SX unit that cost about $100.

I finally replaced it finally with a Nissan Comp clutch unit. Cost about $1200. The car is a much nicer car to drive and it pushes around almost reasonably. It even autocrosses pretty well, little of that old pitch and catch needed anymore. The axle bolts seems to stay tight. No more loud crunching scary noises from the tires winding up and letting go. I keep the welded for a spare, but only for a spare.

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Just took my R-200 in to a shop today to have it welded. I am building my z as a road race car, so I figure I can skip on spending $ for LSD internals and just make a cheap spool. I don't see many Le Mans cars running with LSD...

 

streeteg - all that needs to be welded are the spider gears. All four corners on each side. Its better to connect the welds and fill all the gear teeth together. Just make sure to degrease the whole casing before, and use a whole can of brake parts cleaner and remove all the weld beads afterwards.

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