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What did you leave out when rewiring?


Mycarispurty

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I began pulling the chassis harness out of my Z today. Took the under dash part out as well as all the ignition relay and fuse box stuff on the pass. kick panel. Going to rewire with an EZ Wiring kit. Just curious what kinda circuits you guys left out when rewiring. I'm thinking about just not even bothering to wire in interior lights like the dome light or whatever. Just the basics like dash gauge power for a backlight, ignition switch, lights, and turn signal.

 

Throw me some ideas as to what you guys modified/added/removed when doing a rewire.

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Mycarispurty I am currently also re-wiring my z with an ezwire kit. As far as inteiror items I plan to keep my dome light. Obviously my gauges however beyond that I really dont think their are any other items that need electrical hookups. I just got my kit in the other day so i havent really torn into it well however I did notice that the lines for the dash seemed very short. so I was planning on using my existing Z dash harness and connectors and just patching it into the ez harness. this would allow me to place the harness in its stock location and use existing connectors to make my connections. I havent gone threw my harness very well im still trying to get it nice and sorted out however have you found the wire for the brake lights? I found the thrid brake light wire but not my left or right brake light lines.

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  • 4 weeks later...

1. I have seen people re-wire the side marker lamps (the DOT lights) so they are in the turn signal circuit and will "blink" along with the front and rear turn signal lights.

 

2. What about a switch that would turn off all the rear panel lights? This would make those late night "escape maneuvers†easier.

 

3. Some extra 12V accessory plugs (cigarette lighter). By the time I plug in my radar detector, XM radio adapter and cell phone charger, the console is very busy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I removed everything i mean from end to end and used a painless wiring fuse block 12 circuit if i remember maybe 14 circuit i forget . I installed a push button for the starter , everything else had toggle switches for head lights wipers " wipers ran at one speed fast " it doesnt rain much here so i wasnt concerned .

 

At each bulb be it brake light or head light i sniped the wires rit at the bulb holder itself . For instance the brake lights . 1 wire from the fuse box to the brake light switch the 1 wire from the switch to the bulbs that was it 1 wire . I grounded the bulbs about 4 inches from each bulb .

 

The turn signal switch was left intact , ran power from the fuse box to the turn signal switch then to the built in relays in the fuse block then to the bulbs . I ran 10 gauge for everything the starter i ran 0 gauge as is with the alternator wire to the battery . But lots of toggle switches fuel pump switch one switch for the distrubitor one for the wipers etc .

 

That was on my 78 280z now on my 77 im leaving everything intact as its eaiser then what i did before . Im just using autometer gauges so im running a few seperate wires for those the stock wiring will be for lights only and starting the car nothing else . Fuel pump and distrubitor will be on toggle switches .

 

Jason

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I pretty much tried to keep everything. Like jason i used the painless kit, ended up w/ a push button starter but everything else is using the stock switches.

 

Currenlty I am re-wiring all the under dash power and ground for my autometers. I just coulnd't live with the crimps and electrical tape anymore (I did that about 2 years ago) and am making disconnectable harness for them.

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1. I have seen people re-wire the side marker lamps (the DOT lights) so they are in the turn signal circuit and will "blink" along with the front and rear turn signal lights.

 

2. What about a switch that would turn off all the rear panel lights? This would make those late night "escape maneuvers†easier.

 

3. Some extra 12V accessory plugs (cigarette lighter). By the time I plug in my radar detector, XM radio adapter and cell phone charger, the console is very busy.

 

This is all good stuff--great advice.

 

Davy

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I just got done doing my wiring. I have spent alot of time on it! About 30 hrs. I recommend doing the the GM alternator 94 amp while you are at it. I followed the write up on modifying the alternator bracket. You want to cut 1.25" from the front to the back. You will have about 1.9" left. Drill the hole through .394". This is 10mm.

Dig into the old wiring harness and save the wires from the alternator going to the fusible links, save all the ground wires ( they are all attached) the instrument power bulb wire green color for my 260z. hmm of course save all the plugs! The aftermarket kit provides the power wrires but you still need to resuse many oem connectors especially within the dash and exterior lighting. I had very good connectors so I reused many of them.

 

I used EZ2Wire kit from ebay. It provided 90% of the wires needed except for ground and alternator wires. Save the old wiring for scrap as you'll most likely be taking snips of wire from it.

 

Oh another thing. Do the 94 Accord wiper mod as well. I'm very happy. No more weak wipers or dim headlights at idle :) !

 

I heat shrunk every connection that I could. Make sure to do a good job. I used a soldering Iron 40 watt from Radio Shack or similar. The ones you see at Advance Auto/AutoZone are not strong enough to heat the copper up well. Take your time buddy.

 

Thanks Juan

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  • 2 years later...

2. What about a switch that would turn off all the rear panel lights? This would make those late night "escape maneuvers†easier.

 

Haha, i did this in a couple of my previous cars(lots of parking lot and streetlight cameras here)i didnt really know that other people did that too

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2. What about a switch that would turn off all the rear panel lights? This would make those late night "escape maneuvers†easier.

 

Haha, i did this in a couple of my previous cars(lots of parking lot and streetlight cameras here)i didnt really know that other people did that too

 

Reminds me of a old ClintE movie where he was in a car chase and he turned on the tail lights and floored it. The bad guy thought he was braking and stopped for fear of slamming into him. It was so cheesy.. like that would really work.

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Reminds me of a old ClintE movie where he was in a car chase and he turned on the tail lights and floored it. The bad guy thought he was braking and stopped for fear of slamming into him. It was so cheesy.. like that would really work.

Ha, when we were restoring our old mustang,the brake lights didnt work from the brake.

so whenever we came to a stop we would turn on the headlights, which made the brakelights come on. Really annoying lol.

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Ha, when we were restoring our old mustang,the brake lights didnt work from the brake.

so whenever we came to a stop we would turn on the headlights, which made the brakelights come on. Really annoying lol.

 

So you're the one that gave the director that idea, he must have been driving behind you.

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Don't know if you're planning to rewire your engine compartment; but when I rewired mine, I yanked out a ton of crap under the hood....all the relays, voltage regulator (unnecessary w/ a GM 1-wire alternator), emergency switch, etc. I also replaced the fusible links with heavy-duty circuit breakers. If you want to remove your shunt, do a search in the "Ignition and Electrical " sub-forum.

 

Good luck and happy motoring!

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Lol, When i did mine, I remote mounted the battery behind the passenger seat and put a ford solenoid where the factory fuse box went. then used a series of nissan and bosch relay's to control everything from the horn to the radio. I also ditched the stock switches, minus the brake light and hazard switch. z32's make great donor's for fusible link boxes and fuse box's.

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